PCV System Kit Vs. Cleaning Ports?

DAGOROB · Post by **DAGOROB** » 23 Feb 2016, 03:16

Should I buy the pcv system kit or do you think I can fix it by cleaning the ports and only replacing cracked hoses etc.?? PLEASE HELP

I'm outta work and My ol lady's 6 months pregnant, so $'s tight. We just bought a 97' GLT Turbo Wagon for her with 165,000 miles. I have lots of other repairs like the struts and upper mounts, ABS/TRACS lights on, no interior lites, odometer stopped, front tires, oil leak etc. I was a helicopter mech. in the Marine Corp and worked on alot of vehicles, but never had a car w/ pcv system like this.

YOUR EXPERIENCE &EXPERTISE IS MUCH APPRECIATED!!

Theres smoke coming outta dipstick tube and the oil filler cap pushes air out. So I think there's blockage in the system or bad pcv? What I've read was that there's a lot of build up on the ports and lines createing blockage. Is there a way to tell if the problem is the pcv vs blockage?

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 23 Feb 2016, 14:45

Your PCV is blocked up. Smoke from the dipstick and oil under the spark plug cover (you will see it there if you remove it, I'm sure!) are clear signs you need to replace it. You can also do the glove test to be sure... remove the oil filler cap and place a latex glove over it. Start the car. If it blows up, you're system is clogged. It should suck in. If you say the cap is pushing air out, I'm sure it will fail this test.
There is no point in unblocking it, you have to replace the system. All in all, I spent $132 on parts for it from FCP Euro. You need to replace all of the PCV hoses and the oil trap (as well as the intake manifold gasket, as it needs to be removed). I'd also replace the oil filler cap gasket/o-ring.
Overall, it's not a very hard job at all. Jblackburn on this website has a great DIY writeup that I followed. I'd get to it sooner rather than later, though, because if you run it clogged for long enough, you're going to blow a more important seal.
It sucks, but you might as well do it all at once! It would be nice if there was a cheaper way!

Post by **scot850** » 23 Feb 2016, 15:43

+1 to this recommendation. I would like to say that you can replace only parts of the system, and maybe others may say you can swap only some of the parts, but due to the amount of work that is involved it is false economy. I appreciate the financial bind you are in, but do not use APA/URO parts even though they are cheap. I learned the hard way when the short "j" pipe into the front of the block split after only 700 km, requiring me to have a do over. This is one of those issues you have o make the judgement call on. There is one suggestion here where some folks use some heater pipe to replace part of the PCV piping as they feel it reduces the crankcase pressure and is less likely to clog.

I wish you the best of luck finding work and to you and your wife in the coming months.

Neil.

Post by **erikv11** » 23 Feb 2016, 17:53

I agree that either the PCV is clogged or the ports are blocked (positive pressure out the oil cap) , as you said in your OP. As for your other question:

DAGOROB wrote: ... What I've read was that there's a lot of build up on the ports and lines createing blockage. Is there a way to tell if the problem is the pcv vs blockage?

The only way to tell is to pull the intake manifold, pull the oil trap and check the ports into the block.

There are several ways save a few $$ on the PCV job, this will get you in under $75:

- Oil trap. 99% of the time, there is no need to replace the oil trap. It is hollow and durable. If it is clogged, clean it. If you must replace it, just buy a cheap one, it is hard plastic and there is no history of the cheapies breaking.

- Breather hose from the IM nipple to the PTC nipple. Use generic rubber vacuum hose, it will last longer and is cheaper and easier to work with than the Volvo part.

- Breather hose from the trap to the intake. Use about 4 feet of high quality 5/8 heater hose or fuel line. Again, save a bunch over the Volvo part. Don't just buy the cheapest heater hose you can find, it may collapse. Or even buy a heater hose with a pre-bent 90 degree angle, you should be able to get that for about $15

- Clamps. Standard screw clamps are cheaper than Oetikers and work just fine.

That's it for cutting corners, the other three parts must come from Volvo, no skimping:
8653339 short hose to engine block
1271653 hose to engine block
1271654 hose to top of engine

Also, clean the throttle body while you have the intake manifold off. If you remove it to clean it, get a throttle body gasket for like $1.75.

Never, ever buy any rubber hoses from URO parts. Their oil trap is fine.

DAGOROB · Post by **DAGOROB** » 23 Feb 2016, 19:52

Thanks fellas! Erikv11- I ordered those 3 OEM parts also intake & throttle body gaskets, extra fuel line and vacuum lines, clamps, throttle body cleaner.Anything I'm missing!?

Post by **erikv11** » 23 Feb 2016, 22:12

That sounds good, I don't think so.

I once ruined a throttle position sensor by leaving it on the throttle body during the cleaning, solvent got inside of it. So that's just a heads-up.

Post by **abscate** » 24 Feb 2016, 05:29

You will have to clear both parts and ports. It's important. Pop the dipstick and port the gas down to the road in the interim until you deal with this so you don't get any seals popping

I've got some left over parts from my 1999 that are OEM Volvo and are in good shape.

Price is free and our free jarhead shipping policy is still in force.

Pm me and also post your location. Might have people nearby who can help

Post by **sleddriver** » 24 Feb 2016, 19:03

When I did this job several years ago, I discovered I had no clogged ports at either the PTC or the oil trap. What I did have though was a large vacuum leak as one of the plastic lines inside the foam insulation sleeve that runs underneath the intake manifold, was completely cracked. The end near the PTC slid right out! A smoker would have found it, but I didn't have one at the time. Fortunately, I didn't experience the dipstick being pushed out of the tube, nor oil on top of the engine, much less down inside a spark plug well.

DO PULL your dipstick up so that the pressure is relieved until you get this fixed.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 25 Feb 2016, 08:00

sleddriver wrote:When I did this job several years ago, I discovered I had no clogged ports at either the PTC or the oil trap. What I did have though was a large vacuum leak as one of the plastic lines inside the foam insulation sleeve that runs underneath the intake manifold, was completely cracked. The end near the PTC slid right out! A smoker would have found it, but I didn't have one at the time. Fortunately, I didn't experience the dipstick being pushed out of the tube, nor oil on top of the engine, much less down inside a spark plug well.

DO PULL your dipstick up so that the pressure is relieved until you get this fixed.

My spark plugs were filled with oil... it was backed up pretty bad!

bashosings · Post by **bashosings** » 04 Apr 2016, 19:41

Hi there,
Just bought a 1998 v70 base and I'm having the pcv kit replaced as there is smoke coming out of the dipstick. Just confirming what is said below?

"DO PULL your dipstick up so that the pressure is relieved until you get this fixed."
Do I pull the dipstick up or just leave it off till this is fixed? I have to drive the car around town for the next couple of days before I can get it fixed.
Thanks!