Drop In Front Suspension Kit

firestarterpro · Post by **firestarterpro** » 11 Mar 2016, 16:09

I just bought this drop in suspension kit for my 850 from http://www.ebay.com/itm/271938238948. It was cheap and after factoring the labor (I can do it myself with wrenches and beers) and since it's my daily driver, if it goes bad soon, the warranty should still be in effect.

With that said... It's pushing 300K miles, and I've replaced my CV axle, tie rods, balls joints (it's a 94, so i left on the old control arms) and I will replace my inner tie rods and sway bar links when I do the drop in suspension.

Is there anything else I can do in the front to improve handling? Random bushings that could be bad... Places I could spray white lithium grease in.... sensors I should pull from the junkyard. Perhaps the ABS sensor? One of mine looks cracked but it doesn't throw an ABS code. I'm just brain storming here. Anyone feel free to chime in!!!!

JeffHicks · Post by **JeffHicks** » 11 Mar 2016, 17:19

Replacing the QuicStrut Assemblies is pretty easy. And it sounds like you've either replaced - or will replace - pretty much all other related parts.

Just remember that you'll need a front-end alignment after you do this.

Against the advice of some, I've gone this same route - cheaper aftermarket strut assemblies. The ones I've gotten have lifetime warranties, so I'm good for as long as I have the cars. So far, all 4 sets I've put on Volvos are still doing great.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 11 Mar 2016, 17:31

Jeff, Wondering what brand you used with a lifetime warranty?

Post by **cuhfs** » 11 Mar 2016, 17:41

The brand I see from the link he provided is Complete Struts. http://stores.ebay.com/completestruts/

Here is the warrenty info from their website:
n order to process a warranty claim you will need to provide a work order from an ASE certified mechanic stating the defect (be sure the inspection states specific defect and not stating defect simply as "bad or defective part"). You may be asked to provide physical evidence of a defect by the manufacturer. Pictures and or video may be required before a warranty claim is issued.

Hard to believe they would offer free replacements if the spring seat broke. That a big break point unless you put the IPD heavy duty XC version in. Also if you do need to use the warranty wont the cost of having the ASE certified mechanic do the reinstall off set the savings?

firestarterpro · Post by **firestarterpro** » 11 Mar 2016, 19:49

Yea... the warranty can be a tricky game, but all you need is a note from an ASE mechanic. If you go to a shop regular, they'd it for an 1/2 of labor. I'm going to have my shop double check my work when they do my alignment.

I'm really hoping they will last, like Jeff's

But yea... the spring seat. I guess I could just fix the spring seat myself later, with the IPD one... or perhaps do it before I install them. Hmmm...

firestarterpro · Post by **firestarterpro** » 22 Mar 2016, 09:56

Just installed it and, boy am I impressed. Im glad I did the ball joints and tie rods. I bought URO ball joints and URO tie rods 30000 miles ago and only the ball joints went out. I went the cheap route again for my new replacements with Karlyn ball joints and the more expensive Meyle tie rod ends. Well, the Karlyn ball joints were comparable to the OEM, in thickness, boot construction, and bolt size. The Meyle tie rod ends had more play than the old URO ones I put on last year so im sending them back. I installed Meyle inner tie rods, because they seemed fine. Finally, I bought the best seller on eBay for the sway bar end links. I just got my alignment and drove 5 hours through the West Virginia mountains and gotta say it was worth the $450 bucks.

Drop in Suspension: Ebay $225 (Unity)
Inner Tie Rods: FCP $16 × 2 (Meyle)
Tie Rod Ends: EEuro $12 × 2 (URO)
Ball Joints: FCP $13 × 2 (Karlyn)
Sway Bar End Links: Ebay $12 × 2 (AMAuto)

Karlyn is darn good. The bolts are as thick as the OEM.

Post by **benpineapple** » 22 Mar 2016, 12:33

What's the ride quality like with those drop-in kits? That brand is the only drop-in type I've been able to find that still makes the drop in kits. I'm terrified of spring-compressors and refuse to do jobs that involve them.

dorvin · Post by **dorvin** » 22 Mar 2016, 12:50

benpineapple wrote:What's the ride quality like with those drop-in kits? That brand is the only drop-in type I've been able to find that still makes the drop in kits. I'm terrified of spring-compressors and refuse to do jobs that involve them.

I share the same concerns, I've heard too many horror stories. I've seen these https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -72433314c for sale at FCP, but haven't heard much about their ride quality or durability. I do see that they're back in stock now though.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 22 Mar 2016, 14:31

JeffHicks wrote: I've gone this same route - cheaper aftermarket strut assemblies. The ones I've gotten have lifetime warranties, so I'm good for as long as I have the cars. So far, all 4 sets I've put on Volvos are still doing great.

I was wondering what brand Jeff Hicks used if it was different from the OP.

We are planning to do struts in the next year and I've been interested in what
options are available. Heard good things about Gabriel, reviews seem to be good:
Gabriel G57040 ReadyMount Complete Strut Assembly $175:
https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B ... ewpoints=1

FCP as mentioned above has a lifetime guarantee, Pro Parts Sweden $197:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... -72433314c

Not sure if I trust the struts on ebay, any other suggestions?

beigg · Post by **beigg** » 22 Mar 2016, 16:37

firestarterpro wrote: Is there anything else I can do in the front to improve handling? Random bushings that could be bad... Places I could spray white lithium grease in.... sensors I should pull from the junkyard. Perhaps the ABS sensor? One of mine looks cracked but it doesn't throw an ABS code. I'm just brain storming here. Anyone feel free to chime in!!!!

Out back you may want to check/replace the D links.