ETM replacement and LESSONS LEARNED

[Checksix]

For me the most difficult part of this job was releasing the plastic intake from the ETM and refitting the banjo bolt at the manifold.

I did things a little different than instructions I had read. I unbolted the ETM from the manifold and left it attached to the tubing when disassembling. Getting to the 4 bolts was easy from beneath after removing the air "dam" that fits just behind the bumper. It has 2 each 10 mm bolts and 2 clips that release with a screw driver. That took only about a minute and for me was worth it. At this point I had not pulled the radiator fan, but did much later.

After the manifold was removed, I pulled the ETM from the plastic tubing by heating it with an industrial heat gun. I do think a good hair dryer would also work, but would take more time. Adding some heat made this very simple.

For reassembly, I attached the ETM to the manifold 1st. I only snugged the bolts and tightened after the manifold was in. Prior to putting in the manifold, I put in place the banjo bolt. I kept it in place by using pliers and slightly deforming the upper copper washer so it couldn't fall out. I put on the new intake manifold gasket and put in the 3 lower manifold bolts a few turns. With the intake clamp in place I then heated the plastic intake pipe until it was soft. I hung the manifold on the 3 bolts and then pushed the plastic intake on from the front (this was why the radiator fan eventually came out so I could have working room). This went on so easy, I thought I didn't do it! I tightened up the clamp.

On to the banjo bolt. What a major PITA!!!! If I had to suggest to engineering on how to make this easier I'd suggest making the bolt thread free for the 1st 1/4 to 3/8 inch so it would better self align. If I ever do this again, you can bet I'll put on a nut, then grind off some thread and take the nut off to reform the threads. Anyhow, I did get it on. Along the way I broke the hard plastic tubing that goes from the banjo bolt to the oil separator. To fix this I spliced on some silicon tubing I had that was thick walled and the perfect inside diameter. This flex joint in the middle actually helped make the alignment easier. I still had a hard time. What I found was to keep the manifold low, and as you hand tighten the bolt, as soon as there is resistance past finger tight, use a shorty 17 mm open end. This got it started. To finish tightening I used a ratchet wrench that has a flex angle on the end (Craftsman #42482).

[abscate]

The coolant banjo bolt on the 1999-2001 PCV is destined for one of the "Mechanics hell" entries, indeed. Tough job.

I did mine on my PCV work by attaching it and then attaching to the oil separator with the intake manifold installed.

Removing PS pump and alternator helps too.

[Checksix]

After I had gotten mine all together, I noticed I'd forgotten to replace the outer tube that cover the smaller tube. Not sure of its purpose, but if I was to guess to help keep things at temperature so it doesn't condense out and plug the small openings. I was able to pull out the small tube at the oil separator and slide on the outer tube. However getting the tube back into the connection was a bear. Yes, I did finally succeed by using needle nose pliers and reaching in under the manifold.

Jerry