1995 855T EVAP purge valve

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 07 May 2016, 12:39

I am getting tired of the 3-1-5 EVAP code. The usual suspects have been replaced. So I looked at the purge valve and it was open on both ends. I knocked some dirt out of the charcoal canister end and I had vacuum again - plugged it all back up and was without a code for at least 3 days!
Without removing the purge valve, I disconnected the vacuum line to the charcoal canister, attached another long line and there was vacuum when sucking. But, when blowing air toward the intake, it flowed freely??? Sounds backward to me.

Does this mean that I have to take the valve apart and do a thorough cleaning? A new valve for a 1995 T is too expensive.

After a 1 hour road trip last night, I pulled the gas cap off and there was a lot of pressure released from the tank. Is this normal? I don't recall having a lot of pressure before. Outside air temp was 94F, with 1/2 tank.

Post by **sleddriver** » 07 May 2016, 13:04

Hmmm...interesting. Don't think there should be ANY pressure in the gas tank. It should be free to vent. I learned when troubleshooting the dreaded PO455 that the PURGE valve is constantly on/off/on/off...while in operation. I'd tested it statically, and with too much vacuum in hindsight, and when it held, ruled it out.

So I rigged up a test to watch the vac gauge while I turned it on/off/on/off about once/sec. (in other words dynamically). I also used a lower level of vacuum. It wouldn't pass this test over a brief period of time, so I replaced it. While that replacement alone didn't solve PO455, it was part of the problem.

RMEuropean has some low prices on Volvo parts. Perhaps you'll find a better deal there?

If you do disassemble it, let us know what you find. I've recently been experimenting with ATP AT-205 reseal in my leaking PS rack with excellent results. Think of it as a rubber rejuvenator. If the PV seals are indeed rubber, a drop or two of 205 might restore the rubber after you've cleaned it out and be sure to use a rubber safe cleaner as well.

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 07 May 2016, 13:32

I might install a purge valve filter after cleaning. There seems to be a lot of charcoal dust that can collect in the valve. I recall seeing a filter on my 1998 R.

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 08 May 2016, 13:04

I cleaned the purge valve today (0280142302). There was no O ring as described by others. It was really dirty, including a sooty layer on the spring held valve on the engine side. I am waiting for the glue to dry...

I am surprised by IPD/FCP et al, they are selling a 'kit' for $170+ that includes an extra wiring clip, and a one way valve with 2 small sections of vacuum line. All I would need is the 302 canister.

If the cleaning doesn't repair the purge valve, I may have to plug the line to the intake manifold and insert a one way valve at the canister vacuum line and vent to atmosphere. I wonder if that would work? I am tired of the CEL and poor mpg.

Post by **sleddriver** » 08 May 2016, 14:03

Klausc wrote:....I am surprised by IPD/FCP et al, they are selling a 'kit' for $170+ that includes an extra wiring clip, and a one way valve with 2 small sections of vacuum line. All I would need is the 302 canister.

That sounds vaguely familiar. Link?
Thanks

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 08 May 2016, 14:45

http://www.ipdusa.com/products/8229/113 ... ervice-kit

This appears to make a non turbo check valve work with the HPT. A check valve to keep excess manifold pressure from going to the canister, a not standard purge valve for the 1994-5 turbos, and a wire to accept the different plug on the cheaper purge valve.

Post by **sleddriver** » 09 May 2016, 10:30

OK. Thanks. Now I remember why your description sounded familiar: I was searching for a source of those grey check valves and stumbled across that link & photo.