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What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive "P2" platform cars.

2001 - 2007 V70
2004 - 2007 V70 R
2001 - 2007 XC-70
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R

Georgeandkira
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Georgeandkira

Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by Georgeandkira » Tue Jan 21, 2020 6:49 am

I was floored by my 2007 V70 after tallying a 600+ mile weekend drive and seeing >30.4 mpg.

Yes, it was "all highway" and yes, I filled it with premium.

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Rattnalle
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Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by Rattnalle » Tue Jan 21, 2020 7:41 am

Georgeandkira wrote:
Tue Jan 21, 2020 6:49 am
I was floored by my 2007 V70 after tallying a 600+ mile weekend drive and seeing >30.4 mpg.

Yes, it was "all highway" and yes, I filled it with premium.
Sounds pretty average for a long distance trip to me :D

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Rattnalle
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Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by Rattnalle » Wed Jan 22, 2020 1:58 pm

Replaced the strut bearing on one side. From sounding like it'd fall apart to completely silent in barely two hours work. You can sort of see why it made so much noise. Plus the bearing itself felt like it was full of sand.

I got to use the angle grinder as well :D
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matthew1
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Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by matthew1 » Thu Jan 23, 2020 3:04 pm

By shiloh51933:
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Just replaced both front Macpherson Strut Assemblies(FCS) along with new Sway Bar Links(Moog) and Tie Rod Ends (Moog). The L/F was squeaking so badly that my hated driver XC90 and was borrowing my 2004 XC70. I kept the Volvo/Sachs set that I removed, the Volvo/Sachs set was actually the first replacement set that Ramsey Volvo had installed for the original owner at 85k mileage. I want the springs just in case this set of FCS strut assemblies fail too quickly. FCS does back them with a Lifetime warranty but I'm not changing them every year if they don't last. So far they ride beautifully, so time will tell.
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1997 850 T5, MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace [gone]
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Skymongrel
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Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by Skymongrel » Fri Jan 24, 2020 6:43 am

Pulled my 2006 XC70 (158k) in the driveway and with the mild temperatures, 38F, installed a new high pressure windshield washer headlamp pump and new pump gaskets to address a bad reservoir leak. Also, put in new fog lamp bulbs since the bumper was off and put in a new fuel filter since I can't remember having ever done that!

I think I read this on the site; that third reservoir bolt is a PIA. Finally loosened the other two and pulled the washer pump out to get clear access to the bolt hole. Left the bolt loose, reinstalled the pump and tightened all bolts. Headlamp washer that has never worked works! Cool!

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abscate
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Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by abscate » Wed Jan 29, 2020 5:39 am

+10,000 points to Ratnalle for wearing all the safety equipment

On the topic of safety, the weekly winner of how to blow up your P2 with innovative petrol tank wiring
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Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by Rattnalle » Wed Jan 29, 2020 7:01 am

I'm still young and (relatively) undamaged.

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shiloh51933
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Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by shiloh51933 » Wed Jan 29, 2020 8:41 am

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2004 Volvo XC70 model w/Factory HID headlight assemblies/self leveling system.
The tensioner pulley for the serpentine belt broke off, just the actual plastic pulley. Everything else on the tensioner was still intact, including the pulley bolt. I could have just replaced the actual pulley but I decided to replace the entire unit. I'm sure after a quarter million miles that I got my money's worth out of the tensioner. The tensioner would probably fail at some point in the future, so just replace it while I'm in there. I purchased the INA Tensioner from FCPEURO.COM. INA is the actual factory manufacturer for Volvo, so the part come inside an OEM box instead of a Blue Box.
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- Pete -
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Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by - Pete - » Sun Feb 02, 2020 9:52 pm

Definitely dodged a big bullet there Shiloh :o

One thing that’s always bothered me about P2’s is how the arse end of these cars reminds me rather vividly of a “sulky”. As in, the little trailer that is towed behind a walk-behind zero-turn mower - the operator stands on it whilst operating said ZT mower.

I’ve replaced quite a few parts trying to mitigate this annoyance but never successfully pinpointed the source of why the back end of these has always felt like it’s disconnected, along for the ride, just kinda wandering around back there. Hit a bump & you feel the rear end squirm around in an unpredictable manner. I’ve seen the term “side-hop” used in reference to P2 Volvo’s, particularly the S/VR’s.

Well, I think I’ve finally figured it out, at least in part. I’m sure lots of you have looked at the various moving parts in your rear suspension & have noticed there’s so many things connecting this to that, and that to the subframe etc. Amazing how it all works, well sort of works. You’ve also probably noticed torn bushings at the front attachment point for your trailing arms.

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For the longest time I just thought the area where the tear is plainly visible on the front & rear of where the bolt passes through was there for a reason; to allow movement as the suspension travels up and down. Well looking at the new bushings there really is no way for them to allow for as much movement as the bushings these cars originally came with.

My theory is that the old bushing allowed for, over many years of use and hundreds of thousands of push/pulls, too much movement, and as a result the loosey goosey rear end feel. Let’s replace them then, looks very accessible & cant be that hard. So I researched unendingly & came up with a couple XC90 tutorials (which evidently have steel rear subframes & lots more working room), 1 decent V70R tutorial, and some horror stories about dealerships not being willing to do the job due to a significant risk of cracking the rear subframe. I have no idea how much credence there is to the supposed risk, but after having done bushings on (edit) 4 cars in the last week, I can attest that there does seem to be some validity to these stories.

Replacement of them is pretty straight forward. Keeping in mind the stories I’d read about dealerships not taking the job & there being a risk of cracking the rear subframe, I was very cautious on the first car I did, our V70R. This car had the most noticeable “side-hop” of all our P2’s, probably due in part to the 245 series tires, which I’ve switched out to OEM sized 235’s.

Where I feel the risk to cracking the subframe lies is as follows. To get access to the bushings you will need to remove the trailing arm. Very simple to remove, but you can’t remove the bolts unless the suspension is compressed. So get your jack under the knuckle/control arm (directly below the lower strut mount) & mash it back up, just to the point before it begins to lift the car off the stands. Now the bolts can come out & trailing arm can be removed.

I read that removing the bracket (pic below) that attaches the front of the subframe to the car is necessary so you can get your mini press tool situated to press the old bushing out/new one in. Removing this bracket is not necessary, for the record. I would leave it right where it is!

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So with my jack keeping the suspension compressed, I took that bracket off. Then, I ever so slowly began to back the pressure off my jack, and stopped almost immediately. I noticed that front corner of the subframe began to lower from the car. The suspension actually twists the entire aluminium subframe as it decompresses. I stopped instantly & realized this has got to be why cracked rear subframes exist due to replacing these bushings. So mashed the suspension back up & put the bracket back on.

You do need to take this bracket & move it out of the way. There is a plastic push clip that secures the hard brake line to the backside of the bracket I mentioned just above this paragraph. Sorry the photo is upside down. I tried re-orienting it & it still shows up upside down.
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The rest of the replacement is good exercise, about an hour per side I would say. I did run into issues with our 281k XC70 & also the V70 AWD & ended up having to cut slots in the original bushings with a recip saw. They were just so seized in their cozy confines. Once that was done I could practically tap them out with a drift. I would recommend taking your sawzall & cutting a slot in your original bushings. Try just the bottom or top at first, if it’s still stuck cut a slot in the opposite side as well. I think it’s a combination of the rapid vibration as well as the relief created by the removal of material. Obviously don’t cut into the subframe!

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Here’s the press tool I rigged up. A few 2” PVC repair couplings, one of which you cut in half (have a couple spares in case one cracks), a modified 2” galvanized plug, 7/16” grade 8 bolt, washers that fit on it, nut, and a couple steel plates cut & drilled to fit. I used a coarse thread bolt & even after doing (edit) 8 bushings with the same bolt and nut the threads hadn’t deformed at all. If anyone wants to borrow it just gimme a holler.

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Here’s the 2nd example of a cracked PVC “receiver”, wear safety glasses. I may make a steel or aluminum receiver since I ended up cracking 2 of my PVC ones. Even being cracked they still allowed me to finish drawing the bushings in.

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WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!
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On the car:
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Pressing old out
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I can make a dedicated thread of this if anyone thinks it’d be worthwhile to have on hand here. I took lots of photos & would be glad to share them. Tool is easy to make & free to borrow if you don’t want to make one. Just pay shipping & return it afterwords. The PVC repair couplers are really tough but do deform some with all the pressure. I only had one of my couplers (which I had shortened by cutting in half) crack on me. Even with it cracked I still was able to draw the bushing all the way in to the subframe.

By the way, the Meyle bushings on FCP are Chinese. The Volvo brand bushings are Slovakian made, as are the Lemforders according to the rep I spoke to. Funny thing, the Volvo brand bushings actually have the Lemforder logo & “Ford” embossed on the rubber.
I used 6 Volvo/Lemforder bushings and 2 of the Chinese Meyles just for comparison purposes.
Last edited by - Pete - on Mon Feb 03, 2020 3:35 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Rattnalle
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Rattnalle

Re: What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

Post by Rattnalle » Sun Feb 02, 2020 11:34 pm

Interesting! I would definitely day it deserves a thread of its own.

The feeling became less pronounced on my car when I fitted reinforced springs. Probably because everything moves less. But seams in concrete highways, bridges and most of all the tram tracks* we have around here can still sometimes give that jumpy feeling.

*Tram tracks in a city built mostly on clay move a bit. The pavement doesn't. So there's a gap each side each track after a couple of years. And sometimes a difference in height. Uncomfortable in a car. Potentially deadly on a bicycle.

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