New Volvo Owner, with a whole list of issues.

[Turboshadetree]

Hi! I just bought my second Volvo, a 2006 S60 t5. Automatic. I've got a couple issues, and ive done some research, here's my conclusions on my problems. I would love some advice from the experts here if I'm in error on anything. Car has 128,000 miles.

The radio usually doesn't work. Screen comes on, and sometimes the center speaker works. All other speakers never work. Hu-850. The hidden menu does show AUM codes set, but how do I read them?

I'm guessing the amp and the head unit have failed, since the center speaker only works sometimes. And the others not at all. Would it be better to replace the whole setup with an aftermarket unit? How would I bypass the amp? Or should I throw a good used amp at it, and if that doesn't fix it I could always put an aftermarket head unit in.

The climate control seems to have a mind of its own. Sometimes it works perfectly, sometimes it blows too cold for the settings, and it has to be turned all the way to the red to get warm air. Putting the selector knob on full warm will get me plenty of hot air though, so I'm inclined to believe this is a module issue, not a heater core or blend door issue. Manual mode works fine, allows me to cycle through all the modes perfectly, although the temperature issue is still there.

I only received a valet key from the PO. This is a dealer-only fix, correct?


The engine developed a loud tick after I bought it. Only when warmed up, and only between idle and ~1500 rpm. I've read about sump and pan o-rings, do you think this would help? I'll give her an oil change this weekend. It was a bit low on oil when I checked it, I remedied this with a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It didn't seem to affect the ticking any. The engine still runs perfectly, so we will see what happens.

The S60 has a slight vibration on the highway. Seems to start at around 55, and dies down once you pass 80. Completely smooth once you pass 100.

Its an odd vibration though, it seems to shake for a second and then stop, coming back a second later.

The rotors are also slightly warped, but that should only affect it when im actually pressing the brakes, correct?

She's got a bit of strut noise from the front, both knocks and squeaks, so I'll throw a set of struts at her and see what happens.

Accidently posted this in the wrong forum the first time. Oops.

[oragex]

The radio usually doesn't work. Screen comes on, and sometimes the center speaker works. All other speakers never work. Hu-850. The hidden menu does show AUM codes set, but how do I read them?

The radio itself powers the center speaker, while the amp powers the door speakers. I'd look under front passenger seat where is located the amplifier. Better, remove the two 14mm seat bolts (plastic covers are very hard, use a pry bar to pop them), lift a little the seat, and inspect the amp for corrosion, water ingress. You may need to replace it. I just sourced two of these from scrap yards. Look for the PA-300 model #8666630

I only received a valet key from the PO. This is a dealer-only fix, correct?

Does it start the car? If so, the least expensive way is to gently remove the transponder from key, secure it near the ignition barrel - glue can damage it, just a tape - then buy white keys from Ebay and use a cut service. New key is several hundred dollars from the dealer.

The engine developed a loud tick after I bought it. Only when warmed up, and only between idle and ~1500 rpm.

I would return the car for this. If it had an oil pressure issue, it's too late for a fix. Does the oil pressure light (along with all other lights) turn on when the key is in position II?

The S60 has a slight vibration on the highway. Seems to start at around 55, and dies down once you pass 80. Completely smooth once you pass 100.

Its an odd vibration though, it seems to shake for a second and then stop, coming back a second later.

What exactly is shaking? Steering wheel, floor, gas/brake pedals..

She's got a bit of strut noise from the front, both knocks and squeaks, so I'll throw a set of struts at her and see what happens.

This is about the only choice of parts https://www.fcpeuro.com/products?keywor ... quickstrut
There are other brands out there, but you'll be replacing them again in 6 months.

Good luck

[Turboshadetree]

oragex wrote
...Look for the PA-300 model #8666630

Great. I'll get right on it. I figure I can use the factory amp even if the factory head unit is trashed too. [/quote]

oragex wrote

Does it start the car? If so, the least expensive way is to gently remove the transponder from key, secure it near the ignition barrel - glue can damage it, just a tape - then buy white keys from Ebay and use a cut service. New key is several hundred dollars from the dealer.

Yes, the key does start the car. Are the valet transponders different from the master transponder or is it purely a function of how the key is cut?

oragex wrote
I would return the car for this. If it had an oil pressure issue, it's too late for a fix. Does the oil pressure light (along with all other lights) turn on when the key is in position II?

Private seller. My mistake. Cannot return the vehicle. Yes, the oil pressure light comes on, and goes off as it's supposed to. It's really odd that it didn't do it during the test drive. I wouldn't have bought it.

oragex wrote

What exactly is shaking? Steering wheel, floor, gas/brake pedals.

[/quote][/quote]

Mostly floor, but I can faintly feel it in the wheel. Not in the brake pedal unless I'm pressing on the brakes, and that's a different shake, more in the wheel.

Thank you for your help, by the way. I probably shouldn't have bought the silly thing, but im stuck with it now.

[oragex]

Private seller. My mistake. Cannot return the vehicle. Yes, the oil pressure light comes on, and goes off as it's supposed to.

Maybe it's only a hydraulic lifter.. quite easy to locate the noise with a plastic tube approached to engine, etc - careful near rotating parts
While there I'd inspect the top engine mount and rotating pulleys, hopefully the timing belt has been replaced, but the alternator and a/c pulleys have bearings that fail about at this mileage

Mostly floor, but I can faintly feel it in the wheel. Not in the brake pedal unless I'm pressing on the brakes, and that's a different shake, more in the wheel.

Maybe the rear wheels are unbalanced.. when front wheels vibrate, it would rather feel through the steering wheel. Also, with the wheels at full lock, look at the control arm bushings, if originals they may be torn by now. All in all, 120k miles is about the time when the car needs attention, hopefully once parts are replaced with right ones (the aftermarket if submerged with poor parts for these european cars, especially when it comes to bearings and rubber bushings) it will stay on road for quite a while without much trouble

[Turboshadetree]

While there I'd inspect the top engine mount and rotating pulleys, hopefully the timing belt has been replaced, but the alternator and a/c pulleys have bearings that fail about at this mileage!

PO said the timing belt had not been replaced to her knowledge, I plan on replacing it at the 140m mark. Or is it supposed to be 120 on this particular engine? It does look new, no cracks and the rubber is supple. Also dry, doesn't seem to be any oil in the area, fwiw.

Maybe the rear wheels are unbalanced.. when front wheels vibrate, it would rather feel through the steering wheel. Also, with the wheels at full lock, look at the control arm bushings, if originals they may be torn by now. All in all, 120k miles is about the time when the car needs attention, hopefully once parts are replaced with right ones (the aftermarket if submerged with poor parts for these european cars, especially when it comes to bearings and rubber bushings) it will stay on road for quite a while without much trouble.

I'll have the tires looked at by a shop, that's a very good point. I'll see what I can see on the control arm bushings.

It certainly seems to be a fine car, the sudden ticking is the only thing that worries me. Oil change interval seem to be a bit over, I'll put some ATF in to help clean it out and change it this weekend.

[mrbrian200]

Adding/removing keys and remote fobs require paid software subscription with VOLVO. A few locksmiths can do it, but generally don't carry/pay the subscription year round. You'll want to call around. The one I used near Chicago activates a 3 day subscription occasionally and tries to schedule non emergency VOLVO owners during that time spreading out the cost said subscription. They made me 1 keyfob + 1 valet using genuine OE key blades and fobs, deleted 4 PO keys from the computer which I do not possess with a total cost around 1/2 that a dealer quoted me. Depending on where you are in MO and how many keys you want made it might be worth the trek. (Transponder City - Bridgeview IL). I bet you can find somebody closer though. Kansas City is big enough there should be at least one that can do it, or the $dealer$. Careful with non OE key blades some of them are known to break off in the lock cylinder.