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Guide: Replacing Tensioner / Idler / AC Clutch / Guide Pin V70 2010 Engine B6324S2

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This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » DIY Replace Tensioner / Idler / AC Clutch / Guide Pin V70 2010
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pierremcalpine
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Volvo Repair Database Guide: Replacing Tensioner / Idler / AC Clutch / Guide Pin V70 2010 Engine B6324S2

Post by pierremcalpine »

Hi gang,
I recently replaced my auxiliary/drive belt, the guide pin, the idler, tensioner and ac clutch. Given the number of questions that have been asked about this job on the site, I figured I would put a guide together to help others get the job done themselves and/or to get an appreciation for the complexity of the job.

As is indicated in the guide itself, if you have a good amount of patience and can loosen and tighten bolts, then this job is very doable as long as you have a decent assortment of typical tools at your disposal.

I spoke at length with the dealership before starting the job since I was at 180,000km at the time and I wanted to understand what other proactive maintenance I should attempt while I was in there. They recommended NOT replacing the alternator coupling, the drive pulley or the water pump coupler but they did recommend replacing the AC clutch. I went with their recommendations.

The part #'s are visible in the pics attached in the guide.

In summary you will be doing the following to get the job done:

1) Removing some plastic ducts on the RHS of the engine
2) Removing air filter and its casing
3) Removing battery and its casing
4) Moving the ac compressor to the side
5) Moving the power steering pump to the side

Steps 4 and 5 are necessary because both pulleys face inwards for the engine design and you cannot get the new belt back on without making room to slip the belt back in from the rear of the two pulleys.

Other jobs you may want to consider while you are at it:
1) Replacing the brake vacuum pump seals which are notorious for leaking - you will have lovely access this area! There is a kit available that contains all the relevant odds and ends (31401556)
2) Replacing the air filter as you will be taking it right out

http://tbrown.freeshell.org/volvo/Volvo ... _Guide.pdf
Attachments
Volvo V70 Drive Belt Idler Tensioner Guide final.pdf
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Steve H
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Post by Steve H »

Thank you very much for your time in documenting this procedure. When I do mine I will also do the waterpump and hoses.

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

pierremcalpine, great writeup. I just now put it in the Repair Database and promoted you to MVS Contributor. Outstanding!
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a kickback.

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pierremcalpine
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Post by pierremcalpine »

Thank you! I only hope it helps save some members a few bucks!

elkayeff
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Post by elkayeff »

Good write up but I want to add a couple of things.
1. When removing the 10mm bolts from the AC compressor be careful not to remove the 10mm bolt that holds the freon line to the unit or whatever they put in it now. It is an easy mistake to make. The bolt just behind it is correct.
Also mine was a 3.0 T6 and I didn't have to deal with the pipe in front of the radiator. I also don't think you need to undo the wiring harness to the AC especially if you aren't replacing the pulley or clutch whatever. I think you need to remove both the hose clamp and the bolt that secures the cover on the back of the power steering pump. They are right next to each other. I think one is a 7mm and the other a 10mm.
Be careful not to bolt the AC unit back up with the hood cable on the inside of the bolting. It got tucked in there during the process and so much other stuff was going on when putting it all back together I didn't notice it until trying to get the battery box back in place. Luckilly I was able to just loosen up the 10mm and 13mm on motor mount and pry enough space to slip it out!
Probably should have changed the PS pump but at least now I don't have to deal with the tensioner, belt, or the other pully. Was glad it worked out. Took me 5hrs. Could do in 2 1/2 the second time.

bobjet
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Post by bobjet »

Awesome guide! I plan to tackle this job myself soon and am very glad to have a "map of the woods". One thing I was wondering is if anyone has had noise coming from their AC compressor when it's engaged? At first I thought it was my transmission (sounds like a transmission whine in low gear) which made my heart sink, but was happy to find out it was something I could fix. I'm asking because I would LOVE to get away clean with just replacing the AC clutch and bearing as well if that could be it. Any thoughts or prior experience? Thanks again for the guides and advice.

IronMike
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Post by IronMike »

Found torque specs....giddyup

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