98 V70 NA automatic towing - how risky?

Post by **98v70dad** » 15 Dec 2016, 05:19

I have read that towing with the automatic transmission for a 98 V70 is not the best idea. However, I might have to help my daughter pack up some stuff and move from Atlanta, GA to Portland, ME for graduate school. I haven't checked the miles but that has to be 2 to 2.5 days of driving.

I would potentially be towing a small trailer (small as possible) but I would most likely max out the payload of the car by putting stuff in the back seat and back. I would keep the trailer weight well below the Volvo's stated limits (I'm hypothetically thinking 1500 -2000 pounds - I'll have to check the limit but I think its 3500).

Question: if everything is in good shape on the Volvo (fresh fluids, etc) is this a reasonable idea or is it just too much for an old car?

I have been keeping the tranny fluid clean and fresh and the radiator and hoses were was replaced 2 years ago with Volvo OE parts. Coolant has been kept flushed and clean since that time. I would consider adding a transmission cooler if needed. Of course, I would also do the brake overhaul I've been planning for a while now. The trip would be straight up I-95 so the terrain wouldn't be too extreme .... its just a pretty long trek with a load for an 18 year old car.

Post by **abscate** » 15 Dec 2016, 08:04

You will be fine if its shifting ok.It isnt too hilly on that route, but stop every 2 hours and give it a 10 minute cooling off - a good time to check your load and trailer tires/bearings in the meantime.

Your are 'stressing the car' roughly 20-30% doing this (you can tell by how much your gas mileage goes down, which will be in the 20 mpg range. This isnt a huge amount and well within design limits.

It might pay off to ship the stuff and leave the trailer if possible - the gas mileage bump may cover ship costs if you ship well in advance.

Post by **98v70dad** » 15 Dec 2016, 09:37

abscate wrote:You will be fine if its shifting ok.It isnt too hilly on that route, but stop every 2 hours and give it a 10 minute cooling off - a good time to check your load and trailer tires/bearings in the meantime.

Your are 'stressing the car' roughly 20-30% doing this (you can tell by how much your gas mileage goes down, which will be in the 20 mpg range. This isnt a huge amount and well within design limits.

It might pay off to ship the stuff and leave the trailer if possible - the gas mileage bump may cover ship costs if you ship well in advance.

Thanks. Just thinking about how to accomplish it at this point. When I was in college I fit everything I had (and needed) in the back seat of a 1975 Subaru DL. If it didn't fit it didn't go. As you probably know, girls are different.

Post by **misha** » 15 Dec 2016, 15:47

abscate wrote:You will be fine if its shifting ok.It isnt too hilly on that route, but stop every 2 hours and give it a 10 minute cooling off ...

Why?
Automatic transmission fluid is cooling itself via radiator and it's always at engine's operating temperature.
If engine working temperature is at 90C,transmission fluid is also at 90C.

If transmission oil is at proper level and at proper temperature...i would say that there is no risk of pulling a trailer.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 15 Dec 2016, 19:49

As I recall Matt towed a small U-Haul from Washington to Denver and didn't have any trouble. That trip is a bit more than hilly.

...Lee

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 15 Dec 2016, 20:05

I towed with my 2000 V70XC from , and then from there to Mississippi. Carried over a thousand pounds of stuff not including the U-Haul trailer itself. It was about 2500 miles in all in the middle of the summer throughd some very decent hills. It wasn't super fun, but the car and transmission are still going strong over 4 years later. Just go easy on the acceleration and if you're going through mountainous terrain, shift down manually if it's hunting for gears. Turning the AC off makes a huge difference in the heat when going up long grades. A few times I had to turn off the AC to prevent the temp needle from rising closer to the red.

I have a Magnefine inline transmission filter installed, and prior to the tow I hooked up an auxiliarry transmission cooler, mounted in front of the condenser. I credit both for ensuring the longevity of my transmission.

Post by **tryingbe** » 15 Dec 2016, 20:15

I'd rent a truck and buy an air ticket back myself.
I didn't want to cross the country with an auto with 190k on it. so I wait until after I do a manual transmission swap to my car first.

Post by **tryingbe** » 15 Dec 2016, 20:25

98v70dad wrote: (I'm hypothetically thinking 1500 -2000 pounds - I'll have to check the limit but I think its 3500).

No, a lot less than you think.

Trailers without brakes: 1,100 lbs
Trailers with brakes: 3,300 with a 2" ball, and 2,000 with a 1 7/8 inch ball.
Tongue weight varies between 110 and 265 lbs depending on the hitch class and trailer weight.

Post by **cn90** » 15 Dec 2016, 20:47

Between the cost of U-Haul rental, extra fuel cost and potential wear/tear of the car (well a car at this age who cares anyway! LOL)...
An alternative is Fedex.

When my kid moved to college in Michigan, I shipped 6 boxes (around 24 x 24 x 24 inches or so).
Fedex charged $30/box. We shipped ahead of time, Fedex will hold the boxes at destination location for us.
We simply went there and picked them up.
No headache, no hassles!

JeffHicks · Post by **JeffHicks** » 15 Dec 2016, 21:24

I've not towed with any of my Volvos, but I've done every other sort of towing over many years.

For me, when towing with an automatic, it's all about protecting your overdrive. I typically just shift out of overdrive and go slower. But if I do shift into overdrive, I'm VERY careful to not allow the transmission to keep popping into and out of od. That's your tranny killer right there.

I'm open to the possibility that Volvo automatic transmissions might be completely different, but I'd bet against it.