Coolant top off

Jaguar xjs · Post by **Jaguar xjs** » 06 Feb 2017, 15:27

I spent all of super bowl Sunday changing all of the coolant hoses, heater core, heater hoses, reservoir and cap, the funny shaped pipes inside the car, both turbo cooling hoses using all blue box bits on my car in an attempt to finish my stage zero.

The turbo inlet hose was the most challenging but I was able to remove and replace it without removing the banjo fitting. It was an original piece and was swollen over 2-3 times its normal diameter and was very close to to having an aneurism. The turbo return line was a piece of cake once I removed the one springed bolt on back of the block after a healthy dose of PB Blaster. It looked kinda ugly and thought it might snap off but I got lucky. The pictures of the blue box part shows a white lining but mine did not have it. However, the hose was quite thicker in the center where it spans the pipe gap. A nice piece for just a few bucks.

I had bought a basic coolant kit from FCP and it came with a gallon of Volvo coolant which I diluted with distilled water and used it after I flushed the block with distilled water. After all the bits were installed and the coolant added, I let the car come to normal temp. Took it for a drive around the block and had no leaks but the low coolant light came on. Once home, the reservoir was empty. Topped it off and let it sit overnight. I put the gallon of coolant in the trunk and drove the car to work today. After work I checked the level and I was another half reservoir down. Topped it off and I'll see what it looks like tomorrow.

I did not replace the ETC or the thermostat since both appear to be working correctly but they are both on hand.

I was very surprised to have to top off the coolant with 1.5 reservoirs worth of coolant. I guess the moral of the story is if you do a massive overhaul of the coolant/heater system, be prepared to check your level daily until it settles down to normal.

Gordon

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 06 Feb 2017, 15:33

It is my belief - and I'm still new to Volvos, that some of the thermostats they have won't bleed air. I noticed several after-market thermostats have no air bleed hole and jiggler thingy. I plan on adding a hole to mine before installation. 1/16" hole should do it.

If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me

Post by **cn90** » 06 Feb 2017, 19:21

NORMAL..after a job like this, it takes a few cycles to bleed all the air out.
Nothing to worry about.

PS: I am curious how you were able to replace the Turbo coolant hose w/o removing the banjo bolt, I admire you for this!!!

splats · Post by **splats** » 06 Feb 2017, 21:04

I noticed several after-market thermostats have no air bleed hole and jiggler thingy. I plan on adding a hole to mine before installation. 1/16" hole should do it.

That's exactly what I did, too. But I went slightly larger for some reason (.073").

Year's ago, someone told me to boil the thermostat on the stove, just to make sure it opens - said they had one not open once. I've never seen one not open, but I still do that every time I change a thermostat. I mean, I have to now - because if I don't, then that will be the thermostat that doesn't open. Yes? (at least it's an easy test...)

Post by **rguzz** » 06 Feb 2017, 22:29

OEM for thermostat. You can try the "brand" name ones looking for reassurance but failures even with the "good" ones happen prematurely. 30 bucks gets you a Volvo unit which can also fail, but less likely. I carry a spare. Someone will provide a contrary opinion, but not an item to scrimp on. Not much related to the cooling system should be.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Feb 2017, 04:09

Anytime you repair anything involving a seal, its good to check it...

daily for a week
Then weekly for a month
Then back to your regular schedule monthly/quarterly checks

depending on how much you drive.

I run a fleet of 5 with 5-7 drivers so everything gets checked monthly, minimum

Jaguar xjs · Post by **Jaguar xjs** » 07 Feb 2017, 13:58

Cn90, I had the driver's side of the engine compartment pretty much gutted. Air filter box, intake tube to turbo so there was a lot of room. I could barely see the turbo hose until I removed both heater hoses. Once those were out, I could access the clamps very easily with some careful use of 1/4 drive extensions and universal joints. I did orient the new clamps to the down position so they will be accessible from the bottom for the next time which will probably be never for me.

Working in reverse, I installed the turbo hose, new heater hoses and lower radiator hose. Also replaced a bunch of vacumn lines while in there. Brake booster line was not fun.

I think removing the banjo bolt method would be the best (only) way if that hose is the only one being replaced. But having all the space and a very comprehensive tool kit enabled me to save that step.

Gordon