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Any issues w/eliminating AWD?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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norski
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Year and Model: 2004 xc70
Location: Montana

Any issues w/eliminating AWD?

Post by norski »

2004-XC70

My Haldex unit went out-AGAIN. This time I tore it out and removed the rear axles too. I couldn't bear the cost to deal with it all and then maybe have it fail again next year, so..........I committed to 2-wheel drive from here on out. Had to cut the driveline out of there anyway as it was welded to the rusted collar on the rear transmission. I just didn't feel the gains of replacing all of that were worth it.

Anyway, the boys at the alignment shop told me they had concerns of my new rear wheel bearings not having the spline end of the axle bolted up against the bearing because the bearings can basically come apart. Any truth to this?

If so, are there parts (the very end of the axles?) that I can order to bolt into place with the axle bolt? Of course I no longer have the old axles.

Thanks much,
Arne

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

There have been some debating on this, I think most believe there shouldn't be a problem driving without the driveshaft, but perhaps the most convincing would be those who have been driving like such for several miles.

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mrbrian200
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Post by mrbrian200 »

If this is a concern you just need the outer joint housings.
I would suggest picking shafts from salvage and disassembling them to get what you need. It doesn't matter if they're good or not - you're going to remove the bearings/cage etc anyway.

One time many many years ago when I didn't know as much I replaced a halfshaft on a Taurus I owned and didn't get the axle nut torqued down properly - on that car yes the wheel bearing needed the pressure from the shaft/axle nut to hold together under load. I found out :lol: If the axle nut on the rear of the Volvo is tightened to some high torque spec >130 ft/lbs then it might need it too.

I commend your alignment guys in raising this concern and wanting to take the approach of better safe than sorry.

Is there also not a dust seal either held in place by/seals against the axle housing to keep junk out of the bearing?

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Botbasher
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Post by Botbasher »

Ditto with MrBrian... Wheel bearings almost always need shafts though them or they will destroy themselves.

In VWs, even rolling it around the floor by hand without the shafts moderately tight equals bearing death.

Don't know for sure in Volvos, but many other mfgs require it and at 130ft/lbs... I would bet these do too!

Be careful!!!

K "tight" S
Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Heinlein

We have met the enemy and he is us.-Pogo

If speed kills, do brakes give life??

jimmy57
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Post by jimmy57 »

The cars with the 10mm bolt have stressed bearings. inboard of splines you can see where the wheel hub is rolled over to keep bearing assembled.
All P2 models have the prestressed units. If you look at some FWD cars you will find rear hubs hollow with no splines but the inside is done the same way with the rolled metal over inside bearing.

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mrbrian200
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Post by mrbrian200 »

26 ft lbs + 90 degrees on the rear axle nut- getting sort of up there. May not actually be necessary. I'll speculate it's a case of 'because they could they did' on the AWD cars, or they were worried about the nut trying to work it's way loose if there were any play between the splines.

norski
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Post by norski »

Thanks guys. Jimmy57, so you think I'm good to go? Is my car a P2?
Also, about the missing wheel bearing seal, I never thought about that. How would a sealed wheel bearing get crud inside of it, not sure I understand.

Arne

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mrbrian200
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Post by mrbrian200 »

The bearing is sealed, but being rotating shaft seals small particle crud does eventually work its way in. On the front there is a secondary dust seal between/around the axle housing to the spindle that should in theory extend the life of the wheel bearing.
Looking at parts diagrams and the video on FCP showing a rear wheel hub replacement it doesn't look like they use anything like that on the rear.

norski
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Post by norski »

I'm in an area I'm not likely to find any used axles and the only thing I find online are boot kits or complete axles. Anybody seen a source for only the outer joint housing?

Or are we thinking I might be OK on the rear? Looks like I've got a mixture of advice. But... I appreciate it all!

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Botbasher
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Post by Botbasher »

norski wrote: 22 Jun 2017, 12:59 Or are we thinking I might be OK on the rear? Looks like I've got a mixture of advice. But... I appreciate it all!
If the bearing housing is rolled over, then you SHOULD be ok as that should mean that it's a pre-stressed bearing.

If there is only a bearing side (i.e. you could press it in/out), then the bearing is not supported and uses the axle to keep itself together.

I have not actually seen a XC rear bearing, but that logic is sound. I'm not an engineer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!

Can you not just disassemble the axles and put the stubs back in the bearings? That would be my choice if I had a non-functional AWD. You lose the AWD, but maintain the overall structure.

Which ever way you go, be careful. You are departing from a well engineered path and I'd just hate to see you on YouTube with the dash cam showing your wheel passing you in traffic! :shock:


K " 8) " S
Never become a pessimist. A pessimist is correct oftener than an optimist, but an optimist has more fun, and neither can stop the march of events.-Heinlein

We have met the enemy and he is us.-Pogo

If speed kills, do brakes give life??

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