1996 850 Fast Trans Fluid Leak After Seal Change

[PeteB]

Jacked up passenger side and the drivers side dripped ATF fast, right at the axle.
Just rebuilt the axle and replaced the seal with OEM type, went in without issue.
Thinking that this suggests that the hub is not engaged with the seal because the
axle is not all the way in. I remember worrying about getting it all the way in, but
don't remember how it went in. I know I gave it a tug but not sure if the clip
snapped or not.
Edit: I think I pushed on the outside CV joint when I installed the axle, might have
even tapped it with a hammer but it was not enough, reach in and push hard then
pull the inner CV cup to test it.

Suggestions?
How to check it?
How to pound it in if needed?
Do I need to pull the axle again?

Worried that the axle will pop out if it is not seated properly.

[erikv11]

Did the carrier bearing line up properly without forcing? Seems like that would ensure proper seating into the trans.

Part number on the seal, is it the correct diameter?

Just throwing ideas.

[PeteB]

The driver's side is leaking - the side without the carrier bearing, yes?
It did line up on the passenger side.
I will get the part number if possible, still have the box, I eyeballed them
and they looked the same but that is a good point. I think I have an old
one, I could measure it and compare to a same type new one at FCP.

I should jack it the other way and see if the passenger side leaks.

[erikv11]

Oops did not read the first post carefully enough, my bad about which side.

When you jack up the driver's side, get under there and look straight up at the axle/trans junction. How much gap distance is there between the CV casing and the bell housing? My 854 is on ramps in the garage I could measure it tonight for comparison. A pic of the gap might be useful too.

I certainly wouldn't hesitate to try to push it in with everything all assembled, but would also expect disassembly may be in order. I don't think pounding will help with those two CVs between the outer axle stub and the insertion, I would try to push on the inner CV. Awkward, yes.

[kahl]

It sounds like the axle is not seated. Do this, jack up car, remove wheel, loosen axle bolt, put a block of wood against axle and whack with a 5 lb hammer. A carpenters hammer does not have the mass to seat axle. You should see axle seat. This should solve your problem.

[PeteB]

Thanks, I was thinking it would be good to have a reference for what that gap should be,
I will measure that ASAP.

Right, so I should push against the cup, but it now has the new boot covering it. The
boots seem rugged so I'll try tapping against it with a 2X4 or something. A forked
shaped wood piece would probably be better.

[PeteB]

Seals are SKF 15737 not sure if it is actually OEM brand.

[PeteB]

Jacked it up loosened the big bolt, then thought it might be stuck tapped
it and it moved a lot, that makes sense since the inside allows a lot of movement.
I wanted to measure the gap but thought now it probably moved.
Reached in and grabbed the cup, pulled and it came out about 3/8" pushed
and it went in about 1/2" and seems locked now it will only come back out
about 1/16". I think that fixed it.

My advice if anyone is doing this job is to reach in and pull on just the cup to
test it, then push back in hard if it is not seated. Get out the hammer and
block of wood before you tighten the big nut and wack it for good measure.
You must test the inside cup, a lever in the gap might help in situations were
the spline is tight.

[erikv11]

Sounds like you got it. For the record I have used SKF 15737 many times, never any issues, so that should be ok. And the SKF are lasting well for me although I would probably go with Corteco if I bought one today.

[PeteB]

Thanks everyone I think it is fixed.

Measured a gap of .14" with the cup fully in as a rough idea for others.
Pried the gap with a screw driver and it did not move much at all.