06 V70 front strut components: which to replace?

[ogatrulle]

Been rehabilitating this new-to-me 06 V70 (120K miles) for a few months. New PCV system, ignition key cylinder, radiator, condenser, timing belt/tensioner/idler, serp belt - all done. Working through a "Gibbons" transmission fluid change (first 2qt swap made an enormous improvement in shifting).

The only major item remaining is to change the front strut parts. I know I need at least new strut bearings. I am hoping you can advise me on which other items I ought to be replacing. I have not yet taken the struts out (will wait for parts).

1. I am puzzled a bit about the upper spring insulators (NOT the spring seats). VIDA shows 30666314 apparently atop the springs between the springs and the spring seats. Is this correct? I can't get a good look up into that area so I'm not sure my (original) strut assemblies have them.
2. I am planning on replacing: (rubber?) insert washer (30647969), strut bearings (Lemforder 3049801), spring seats (Volvo 30683637), bump stops (code 3 = 8672087), struts (Sachs 554-046 $85 at RA).
   
   1. Can I reuse the lower and upper (if present) insulators or should I replace with new? The uppers seem a bit pricey ($43+)
   2. Can I reuse the "plus" nut (31262068), stop washer (31201386), and bellows ("dust cap" 9140068)?
   3. I'm pretty sure I can reuse the spring. Mild climate here, unlikely to rust.

Thanks!

[Rattnalle]

1. Neither of my P2s have had that fitted.
2. I've kept the insert washer and bump stops on mine when replacing stuff, they've seemed fine. But if they're cheap enough might as well do those too.
2a. I've only had the lowers on one of the cars. They've been worn through in a few places. I've either kept them as is or on the car that didn't have them replaced them with cut rubber tubes and in both cases some thick rust inhibitor on the strut spring seat. I personally can't tell a difference between having them or not having them.
2b. I'd say yes. I've added som rust inhibitor to the stop washer before assembly since mine have been a bit rusty. I'm in a very rust prone climate though.
3c. Inspect the spring before you decide at least since it's an easy thing to do. I guess up front they'll be ok but new rear springs can really make a difference with a load and I changed all fours while I was at it and had the strut apart for a shock change..

[Georgeandkira]

Since I had great experience with Bilsteins (on a car of mine and that of a friend) I would get the B4 replacements before buying the Sachs (which I installed on my '02 all around) They were the SporTourings and were touted as being the direct replacement for factory. My originals (158K) were leaky and vile and the Sachs didn't feel like any improvement at all!

I have B6's waiting in the wings for my current V70. Those, however, are EXPENSIVE.

[Rattnalle]

Interesting with the Sachs. I put them on my car this spring and it shaved at least 100k off the perceived age of the car. It's like I bought a new car. The originals were old but only one of them leaky.

[oragex]

The one thing I would definitely go with OEM Volvo, is the struts. All other parts, Sachs and Lemforder should be just fine. The reason about the struts is that I've used both models of Sachs, the cheaper ones and the more expensive Super Touring ones. Both felt so lifeless the car suspension felt like I was driving a bus. To me - simply my taste - the suspension is the most important thing in a car related to the driving pleasure (then comes the engine, steering and seats). But if you don't mind about the suspension 'feeling' like a real Volvo, Sachs struts are ok, they don't last as long as the original Volvo ones but will do the job.

When removing the strut, watch underneath the car where the top of the strut is inserted - it's the strut tower. That part of the chassis is prone to rust underneath, in climates with salt on road it causes the salt to pierce the strut tower which is not good news. best moment to check for rust with the strut out of the car.

Remember to place the cross nut with the cross upwards.

A good check at the control arm bushings is about right at 120K miles. Also check the A/C compressor pulley for noise at this mileage (the bearing goes bad about now)

[ogatrulle]

But if you don't mind about the suspension 'feeling' like a real Volvo, Sachs struts are ok, they don't last as long as the original Volvo ones

Do you have an opinion of the Volvo struts vs. the Bilstein B4s as to a) feel and b) durability? I see Georgeandkira likes the B4s and I have read other positive comments elsewhere.

I am lucky to live away from snow and salt. The car spent its entire previous life locally. Outsides of the strut towers look good, but I will inspect the inside from underneath once I get the struts out.

Another question I forgot to ask in my original post is about the various aftermarket camber bolts (these appear to go in the two bolt holes at the bottom of the strut). Are these of any value?

Thanks!

[Rattnalle]

AFAIK Sachs are supposed to be what's fitted to the car to begin with. That's not to say it's what you want when it comes to how they feel though. They make for a comfortable car if nothing else.

[oragex]

AFAIK Sachs are supposed to be what's fitted to the car to begin with. That's not to say it's what you want when it comes to how they feel though. They make for a comfortable car if nothing else.

There have been discussions on this. I would rather tend to believe most aftermarket parts made by the companies who provide parts to Volvo (for example) don't actually use the same high quality components as in the parts they furnish for a new car. It's really a personal opinion as no one has actually a way to check this. Just my experience but out of two new Sachs and one Volvo strut, the Volvo one simply had a feel Sachs weren't close to.

[oragex]

But if you don't mind about the suspension 'feeling' like a real Volvo, Sachs struts are ok, they don't last as long as the original Volvo ones

Do you have an opinion of the Volvo struts vs. the Bilstein B4s as to a) feel and b) durability? I see Georgeandkira likes the B4s and I have read other positive comments elsewhere.

I am lucky to live away from snow and salt. The car spent its entire previous life locally. Outsides of the strut towers look good, but I will inspect the inside from underneath once I get the struts out.

Another question I forgot to ask in my original post is about the various aftermarket camber bolts (these appear to go in the two bolt holes at the bottom of the strut). Are these of any value?

Thanks!

I don't know about the quality of Bilstein, but off the forums they seem to last, surely not like an original Volvo one, but still long enough. From what I've read, the B4 are a little more stiffer than the original Volvo suspension which is already not the softest. There is also a B6 model closer to the Volvo suspension. Note that if your streets are paper smooth, the difference in stiffness won't really be apparent.

[precopster]

I tried the B4s with lowering springs all round and all-new front components on an 850 wagon and I almost lost all my teeth fillings. I've used Sachs as replacements for factory shocks and never noticed a difference.