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The EASY way to line up Crank marks for Timing Belt

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Re: The EASY way to line up Crank marks for Timing Belt

Post by erikv11 »

Yes, they face the engine, so you can see the little notches from the top in good light. Those notches are visible in your first pic where the timing is off by a half tooth. A PITA but it works. Good move marking them to make it easier in the future.

Ball park tests are not advisable for timing an interference engine, always be certain with the actual crank marks. It may be hard to see them but they are there, don't stop until you see them ...
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Re: The EASY way to line up Crank marks for Timing Belt

Post by XC70Rider »

erikv11 wrote: Mon Feb 11, 2019 2:31 pm Yes, they face the engine, so you can see the little notches from the top in good light. Those notches are visible in your first pic where the timing is off by a half tooth. A PITA but it works. Good move marking them to make it easier in the future.

Ball park tests are not advisable for timing an interference engine, always be certain with the actual crank marks. It may be hard to see them but they are there, don't stop until you see them ...
After throwing the crank gear back on I installed the timing belt. As known you don't want to rotate the crank with the belt missing. After fully rotating by hand twice the crank and both cam markings were still dead center. With the strut tower blockage I used a tiny ruler and mirror to confirm the exhaust cam marking. Got it done on the first try and she's running smooth with no codes.
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Re: The EASY way to line up Crank marks for Timing Belt

Post by Mountainman45 »

Why don't you want to rotate the crank alone
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Re: The EASY way to line up Crank marks for Timing Belt

Post by ZionXIX »

Mountainman45 wrote: Sat Jan 11, 2020 5:17 am Why don't you want to rotate the crank alone
For fear of bending the valves
ediddily
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Re: The EASY way to line up Crank marks for Timing Belt

Post by ediddily »

Currently my T belt is on and cams aligned.
I tried to remove crank pulley nut with cam holding tool on and the crank slipped 1 tooth counterclockwise.
How do I safely turn the crank back to the proper position?
Remove T belt then turn crank to proper position?
Do I need to remove spark plugs to not fight compression?

I attached 2 photos with phone. I will attach more with smaller camera once charged.
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Screenshot_20200502-113449_Gallery.jpg
20200502_110846.jpg
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Re: The EASY way to line up Crank marks for Timing Belt

Post by abscate »

Yes, get the belt off and put the crank back in right.

It’s hard on the belt to slip teeth
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Re: The EASY way to line up Crank marks for Timing Belt

Post by ediddily »

So I was able to loosen the belt and get everything aligned, reattach the belt and turn over by hand several times without valves hitting, at least I think. I was able to get the crank nut off by using the cars starter then use the air gun. I got the flywheel and timing pully off too.

What is the best approach to get the timing pulley back on?

How would turning the crank feel if valves were bent? Would it just not turn?
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Re: The EASY way to line up Crank marks for Timing Belt

Post by abscate »

It won’t feel different, but it’s really hard to bend valves by hand cranking.if you didn’t use the starter if/when the valves contacted the pistons you will be fine

One tooth jump is nothing to worry about.

I put the Harmonic andpulley on, draw it down with the big nut, after cleaning the threads shiny so it runs nice. The crank spin tightens the nut, so I lube it for next time and get it nice and tight with a counter hold using two long m6 bolts in the flywheel holes. Don’t go crazy tight here, it will hold fine
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Re: The EASY way to line up Crank marks for Timing Belt

Post by ediddily »

Thanks, after getting the balancer nut off using the starter method, I put the nut back in and turned by hand. I was able to turn the motor several times by hand with compression 4x going around. I believe everything is fine.

I'll try using the nut to get the pulley back on, it makes sense as it is a straight push back onto the shaft.
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