2006 V70 2.4 Base -- Oil Change
- E Showell
- Posts: 3275
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- Year and Model: ‘07 S80 3.2
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So, I am used to doing my own P80 oil changes. The filters are metal canister filters. The P2 filters are paper cartridge inserts. How does one prime the filter? I am used to filling the metal canisters with oil before installing. What's the procedure for a paper cartridge?
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'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
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'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT
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Georgeandkira
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- Year and Model: '07 V70 + '15 XC70
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You pour oil into your spin-on canisters (wait and repeat) and spin 'em on.
You pour oil into the cartridge filter's housing and spin 'em on.
If the filter element gets jammed on first you're going to have to get used how much you can get away with before you create a mess.
You coat the gasket / O ring with clean oil in both cases.
When you screw on the housing you can feel the shoulder hit its limit.
By then the O ring is deep in its bore.
You needn't force the housing after the shoulder lands.
I've never pre-filled any oil filter but I'm not against it. I might even be for it if it prevents wear.
You pour oil into the cartridge filter's housing and spin 'em on.
If the filter element gets jammed on first you're going to have to get used how much you can get away with before you create a mess.
You coat the gasket / O ring with clean oil in both cases.
When you screw on the housing you can feel the shoulder hit its limit.
By then the O ring is deep in its bore.
You needn't force the housing after the shoulder lands.
I've never pre-filled any oil filter but I'm not against it. I might even be for it if it prevents wear.
- oragex
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As above, if you want to fill it (I forget almost all times), put the filter inside the canister, put the new seal on the canister, then fill it a little with fresh oil. As mentioned no need to hulk-tighten the canister, really just a kick with the ratchet once it doesn't turn anymore by hand, the seal is doing perfectly the job.
Not sure about others, by mine takes exactly a 5L jug
Question: do people press the new filter into the canister or into the engine?
Not sure about others, by mine takes exactly a 5L jug
Question: do people press the new filter into the canister or into the engine?
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
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I’ve screwed up the canisters twice on my 1999 (uses the P2 style). If you don’t seat it right, the tension on the housing won’t seal and you get an oil geyser. My 99 is in the driveway right now with this problem which I discovered not in time before a CA trip
You don’t need to prime oil filters
The adage of 90% of engine wear occurs on startup has no evidentiary backing
You don’t need to prime oil filters
The adage of 90% of engine wear occurs on startup has no evidentiary backing
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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Georgeandkira
- Posts: 900
- Joined: 07 Apr 2009, 08:24
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WHAT? You didn't put the large O ring into its groove the correct way?
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93SCMax
- Posts: 396
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- Year and Model: 2001 V70 T5 mt
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I always press the new filter into the engine, lube the new large o-ring, then tighten down the canister with a "Volvo" canister wrench. I don't know if it makes any difference, but I feel it seats properly if I press it into the engine. My focus is to not have any leaks, and not overtighten, and potentially crack, the canister. So far, so good.oragex wrote: 16 Dec 2017, 14:47 Question: do people press the new filter into the canister or into the engine?
- Rattnalle
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I seat it into the canister. The seat is much shorter than in the engine so there's a higher chance it won't seat there otherwise in my eyes. Plus it's easier.
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chrism
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I set the empty canister loosely in the vise. Put a new O-ring on it. Put a new filter cartridge in, making sure it drops to the bottom of the canister. Pour oil down the center of the cartridge a little at a time, allowing it time to bleed through the cartridge. When it's about 3/4 full I stop pouring. With my finger I wipe some of the oil that invariably spilled on top of the cartridge and I smear it around the O-ring. Then I carry it to the car, hoping I don't drop it somewhere between the work bench and car. I then smear a bit of oil around the inside of the cylinder to further ensure the seal slides up into it with minimal friction. Then I screw the canister in.
Note, if you look at how the O-ring seals between the canister and the engine block, it becomes obvious that there's no benefit in tightening beyond "just snug" (the point at which the shoulder on the canister contacts the engine).
Note, if you look at how the O-ring seals between the canister and the engine block, it becomes obvious that there's no benefit in tightening beyond "just snug" (the point at which the shoulder on the canister contacts the engine).
- oragex
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If I remember, when I pressed down the new filter into the housing cap, next time I removed the cap for an oil change I always had the filter sitting inside the housing cap. But when I rather inserted the filter into the block, at the next oil change when the cap came out the filter was staying inserted into the block.
I wonder if the oil would bypass the filter in either situations?
I wonder if the oil would bypass the filter in either situations?
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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