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XC60 blower motor failure

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials for the groundbreaking new Volvo S60 2011+, V60 2015+ XC60 2010-2018.
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Year and Model: 2010 XC60
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Re: XC60 blower motor failure

Post by QUARKS40 » Sun Mar 18, 2018 8:20 pm

Follow up.
In the weeks that have passed since doing this repair, it occurs to me that I didn't really describe how the dash comes out.
Below I will outline the steps I performed to get this done. Sorry, I didn’t take pics. The XC70 video is somewhat useful, but mostly not. The take aways from that video that are directly related to the XC60 are to turn on the recirc before you disconnect the battery, right hand trim piece removal at the passenger door, recirc housing wire harness removal and the bit about the CEM removal. That’s about it. Watch the entire video anyway. I will highlight the items that are difficult in bold. These are the three or four things that require a bit of extra patience. In my opinion, if you are warned in advance you are less likely to be overwhelmed by them. Please read the entire post, watch the videos and do the reading before running off to take things apart. Forewarned, Fore armed and be prepared.

Required viewing before starting:


It is not necessary to remove the seat or the carpet. It does make it a bit easier, but adds 20 minutes to the removal and reinstallation. YMMV, your call.

Required Reading:

So, that said, here goes.
Tools required:
Torx T25 bit.
#1 phillips screwdriver short (Stalk removal)
8mm socket
7mm socket (Clockspring removal)
13mm socket (CEM Bracket removal)
15mm socket (Steering Wheel removal)
8mm socket
8mm box end open end wrench (A Pillar trim)
Wire cutters (Zip tie cutting)
Fan removal tool
Start the car, push the recirc button and after a moment to let the vent shift position, shut the car down.
1. Block the wheels and disconnect the battery. Wait 10 minutes to let the stored voltage in the car to drop to zero (Capacitors, gotta luv ‘em)
2. Remove the airbag from the steering wheel.
3. Remove the steering wheel, remembering to put the maintenance screw in the clockspring assy
4. Remove the steering column covers X3
5. Remove the stalks – turn signal and wiper operation from the clockspring assy- two screws each
6. Remove the clockspring assy
7. Remove the instrument cluster
8. Remove the floor trim piece covering the weatherstrip on the drivers door.
9. Pull off the weatherstrip on the drivers door from center floor up to the top of the A pillar trim.
10. Remove the trim piece at the end of the dash, drivers side
11. Remove the arch trim piece lower drivers door side
12. Remove the left and right center console kick panels.
13. On the right side, where you removed the kick panel you can see a yellow lever on the gearshift assy. Push that down to disengage park and move the gearshift all the way back (drive position)
14. Remove the vent trim piece at the top of the CCM assy and disconnect the emergency flasher.
15. Remove the twin vent assy
16.Remove the CCM panel assy (there is 1 screw here that is hard to access and remove) Two connectors here at the bottom left where you removed the left kick panel.

17. Remove the center console – the panel that the CCM attaches to must be removed entirely, the rear half can just be moved out of the way, no need to remove it entirely. You will have some difficulty getting past the gearshift assy, but it will come out without removing the gear shift assy.
18. Remove the floor trim piece covering the weatherstrip on the passenger door.
19. Pull off the weatherstrip on the passenger door from center floor up to the top of the A pillar trim.
20. Remove the trim piece at the end of the dash, passenger side
21. Remove the arch trim piece lower passenger door side
22. Remove the trim piece under the glove box and disconnect the courtesy light connector
23. Remove the glove box assy.
24. Remove and disconnect the radio. Move the harness inside and to the right – where the glove box assy was.
25. Remove the dash speaker cover (Bone tool - 3 clips on the front side)
26. Remove the center dash speaker/infotainment housing (5 T25 screws)
27. Disconnect the connector here and move the harness inside and to the right
28. Disconnect the wire from the rear of the start switch, tab is at the bottom of the connector. No need to remove the start switch, and on mine it would not come out of the dash. Having small hands is a plus, especially for reinstallation
29. Use the bone tool to pop up the security sentry at the center front of the dash and disconnect the cable. Push the cable back down inside the dash. NOTE: ON REINSTALLATION, IT IS NECESSARY TO PUT A STRING ON THIS CONNECTOR SO YOU CAN FISH IT UP THROUGH THE DASH. This makes doing this solo …… interesting.
30. Remove the headlight/foglight switch. (Bone tool)
31. Remove the parking brake switch (two T25 screws)
32. Disconnect the OBDII port and tuck it inside - out of the dash. ( one T25 torx)
33. Remove the left and right A Pillars. There is an 8mm bolt at the top of each under the IC AIRBAG cover (Box end open end wrench). it's in an awkward spot to remove. Then push down ward and pull out – it will unsnap from the body

Now, all the ancillary stuff is out of the dash, the cables are disconnected and the A pillar trim is out of the way. What remains is the removal of the dash itself.

34. Two 8mm bolts each at the end of the dash, left and right side.
35. Three 8mm bolts in the instrument cluster area. Two are readily visible. One is hidden behind the duct, immediately above the right hand bolt and to the rear. You must hold down the duct to access it. My **compliments** to the genius who designed this :evil:
35A. Remove the wire retaining clip below the steering column inside the dash. It just pulls off.
36. Two 8 mm bolts center console area front
37. One 8mm bolt Center console area center, in deep
38. Disconnect the passenger airbag connection, yellow connector glove box area, and remove the wire retainer attached to it. The airbag remains installed in the dash
39. Two 8mm bolts on the chrome steel bracket under the passenger airbag.
Now the dash can come out. It’s about 40 lbs and cumbersome. It is useful to have someone help, but not required.
Once the dash is out, you have access to the CEM, The recirc vent screws and the blower motor.
40. Remove the CEM connectors. CAUTION!!! There are little locking tabs in the center of these connectors that you want to push in before flipping down the locking arm, then remove the CEM itself.
41. Remove the CEM bracket
42. Disconnect the air quality sensor and the recirc connector from the recirc cage. Move the wire harness out of the way
43. Remove the recirc vent cage - three T25 screws
44. Disconnect power from the blower motor
45. Using the special tool, remove the blower motor. NOTE: if you are doing this by yourself, it is useful to break/cut the blower motor locking tab on the blower motor itself. If you have help, they can push down the tabto unlock it to allow rotation.
If you are going to replace the Resistor assy, now you can access it from the top, once the blower motor is removed. Having small strong hands is a plus here. You will need to cut away the rubber insulating material to the left of the resistor assy in order to remove the resistor. It’s a clearance issue.
46. Disconnect the 4 pin connector from the Resistor assy. Remove the Resistor assy, rotating it counter clockwise.
47. Replace the Blower motor using the special tool.
Re-installation of course is the reverse of removal.

Yes, this is a big job. It is neither Voodoo or rocket science. It will take all day. There is nothing special about doing it, other than the must have fan removal tool. Dice is not required. Vida may be useful, but I did it without.
How motivated are you? Is it Hot out or bone cold?
You should have somewhere out of the weather to do this, but if the weather is pleasant than no big deal. You will have a number of parts that you will want to set safely aside so they don't get damaged, tripped over or gnawed on by your favorite pet. (Don't ask)
This guide isn't perfect and your model may be equipped differently (Infotainment) but you get the idea.

For me, this was well worth the effort. I am the second owner of this car and the fan motor has been making noise since I bought the vehicle, the noise most notable at low fan speeds. Big change in the air output as well.
2010 XC60 - P*, 3 Spoke steering wheel retro, Gearshift retro.
2001 S40 - 14T, BBTB, turbo back stainless DP, Upsolute, KW, 15mm rear sway, 17" Konig wheels, Custom Arctic Silver/Sonic Blue pearl paint, custom interior

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Re: XC60 blower motor failure

Post by Dzikiewicz » Tue Oct 15, 2019 11:48 am

So I just did this work on my xc60, it was a lot but this guide was a massive help. Only things I can add, is you don’t nessary need the tool for the xc60 only because the entire dash is coming out. I used a 3/8s extension and a mallet. But that can be dicey because the plastic is getting older and can be brittle, I was lucky everything went ok

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Re: XC60 blower motor failure

Post by MrBreeze » Thu Nov 14, 2019 9:00 pm

FYI Just revived a non functioning blower in a 2011 XC60. When you turned on the fan, there was a faint hum, but no fan speed. You can access the blower from the passenger side foot well with medium effort. Reached in and gave it a spin, returned to the cockpit and yes the fan now responds at all speeds. I think sometimes you hit a "dead spot" on the brushes in the motor, and I think the hum was an indication it wanted to spin. Always worth a try, along with changing the resistor, before dash removal and replacement of blower motor. YMMV

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Re: XC60 blower motor failure

Post by Shawshank08 » Thu May 28, 2020 2:41 pm

MrBreeze- could you give a little more info on how you got to the fan from the passenger foot well? I'm trying to get under there, but it still looks like I'd need to take some things out before I could reach the blower.

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Re: XC60 blower motor failure

Post by Dzikiewicz » Thu May 28, 2020 2:46 pm

I don't wanna be the guy that says it's not possible, but I don't think it's possible. Maybe if you have small diameter forearms. But even then the kick plate has to go, and probably have to move the harnesses from the cem.

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Re: XC60 blower motor failure

Post by jimmy57 » Thu May 28, 2020 3:52 pm

If you want to get to the fan to spin it or to fog it with oil, you can take the wiper linkage/cowl cover off. The blower wheel is readily accessible unless the recirc function is selected when you turn it off. The blower wheel does not have a solid hub, it is spoked so the motor internals are visible. The access to the fan on RH side inside is after a duct or cover, sort of an elbow with the recirc door, is removed.

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