Exhaust Cam seal question

ir637113 · Post by **ir637113** » 02 Feb 2018, 18:14

So I'm doing a bunch of work to my 850. Ran into an issue with my cam seals. It's super easy to do if you can get to it. Problem is that I can't. Picture attached, but I've got a hose with a connector in the middle that is in my way.

Hose won't budge as it's clamped to some vacuum lines, so I don't want to try and force it. Ideas? I'm thinking of pulling the clamps on the connection piece (side note - wtf is this thing?), but I want some opinions before I do. Ideas?

ir637113 · Post by **ir637113** » 02 Feb 2018, 18:15

Additional info - checked the forums and the videos out there. I apparently have the only Volvo with this piece in the way

Post by **erikv11** » 02 Feb 2018, 20:21

Disconnect one end of the hose, move it out of the way.

I think that is an SAS valve - the purple vacuum line helps give it away. Time to delete the air pump too, then you can get rid of the hose altogether!

ir637113 · Post by **ir637113** » 02 Feb 2018, 21:11

erikv11 wrote: 02 Feb 2018, 20:21 Disconnect one end of the hose, move it out of the way.

I think that is an SAS valve - the purple vacuum line helps give it away. Time to delete the air pump too, then you can get rid of the hose altogether!

Sounds like a plan. That's what I figured I would do, I just wanted someone else to tell me I wasn't being dumb.

I looked up how to delete - not my cup of tea when it comes to car repair. When we start talking about messing with the computer I'm not that comfortable with my skill level quite yet

Post by **cn90** » 03 Feb 2018, 10:24

- Just went through this same problem with factory Volvo exhaust seal coming off, losing 1 qt oil/400 miles. Driveway messy etc.
I posted the photos and tricks in the DIY SKF Cam Seal thread.

- I now switched to Corteco seals ($6/each). Time will tell it is better. The problem with dealer seal is: it won't leak right away but about 40K-50K, somehow it comes off the bore in the cylinder head. So, for the Corteco cam seals, I apply a thin smear of RTV around the OUTER edge. The Inner lip: small amount of oil. Then install it.

- The space back there is tricky, so I used a 1.5" PVC coupling ($2 at Home Depot hardware store) and gently tap it in. Go SLOW! All you need is 1mm from the very edge. Don't drive it in too far. During insertion, rotate the seal so it does not "fold over".

- The T40 bolts: clean the inside thoroughly to allow the T40 socket to bite properly. Otherwise, you will strip the bolt, which is a headache to deal with! Use good T40 socket, the cheap one will strip not only the T40 bit but also the bolt. I used GearWrench T40 socket, which is hard metal. Avoid the soft-metal T40 socket.

- Another trick is to TIGHTEN it (yes tighten it) a tiny bit before going CCW to undo the T40 bolt. The reluctor only fits one way, but I marked it with white-out so it went back the same way.

Post by **rspi** » 06 Feb 2018, 13:59

I kind of like driving 40,000 miles per year. I get to test things real quick.