IPD sale Volvo Parts

Narrow Down Low Cabin Heat Issue Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive "P2" cars.
2001 - 2007 V70
2004 - 2007 V70 R
2001 - 2007 XC-70
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
User avatar
oragex
Posts: 3798
Joined: Fri May 24, 2013 6:20 am
Year and Model: S60 2003
Location: Canada
Has thanked: 71 times
Been thanked: 113 times
Contact:
Canada

Re: Narrow Down Low Cabin Heat Issue

Post by oragex » Tue Feb 27, 2018 7:36 pm

The core may get clogged if wrong coolants were mixed or if tap water was mixed with coolant. There are products at the hardware store that remove deposits, may worth a try as the core is out.
2003 2.4i S60 automatic 125k miles
DIY Volvo repairs videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c

User avatar
Rattnalle
Posts: 1116
Joined: Fri Sep 01, 2017 2:10 am
Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
Location: Sweden
Has thanked: 10 times
Been thanked: 78 times
Sweden

Re: Narrow Down Low Cabin Heat Issue

Post by Rattnalle » Wed Feb 28, 2018 1:22 am

Measure flow before and after trying to clean it so we can see how well those products actually work :-)

User avatar
abscate
MVS Moderator
Posts: 15430
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:54 pm
Year and Model: 1999 V70T5, 2005 V70
Location: NYC
Has thanked: 117 times
Been thanked: 382 times
Trinidad & Tobago

Re: Narrow Down Low Cabin Heat Issue

Post by abscate » Fri Mar 02, 2018 4:58 am

Have we ever seen a clogged core here? I would think unless your coolant has ducks floating in it this would be rare.

Please follow up...subscribing
1 SWMBO for 30 years
2 Volvos
3 VWs
4 Careers
5 cats/dogs/gears
6 Perfect Ladies in waiting
7 Drivers
8 Boats- with a big pointy metal thing on top

1999 V70 T5M 56 2005 V70 NA M56 VWs BMW

velorider
Posts: 155
Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:16 pm
Year and Model: 2005 S60 T5
Location: Long Beach, CA
Been thanked: 4 times
United States of America

Re: Narrow Down Low Cabin Heat Issue  Topic is solved

Post by velorider » Sat Mar 03, 2018 11:26 pm

SOLVED!!!!

It was the heater core! I installed the heater core and the heat was amazing! Felt like a Swedish sauna, if that's even a real thing. I have to thanks Oragex for the video. The details about the brake light sensor was critical for a successful install. The video mentioned possible SRS lights if the brake light sensor is removed. With a small piece of tape, I taped the switch closed. I didn't want to disconnect the battery because I needed to test the bend doors.

While the heater core was out I did confirmed the driver and passenger bend doors work correctly.

Building on the shoulders of those before me, I made a few enhancements to the process.

1. I removed the heater hose lines from the firewall and vacuumed the coolant out. I didn't want to deal with all that coolant spilling inside the car. Not a drop spilled from the core when I removed it.
20180303_115434.jpg
20180303_115434.jpg (162.76 KiB) Viewed 496 times
2. Removing the steering CV like joint is critical. I couldn't figure out how to just maneuver it out of the way. Once you remove the bolt, as documented in the video, just pull the CV joint part straight down and out. NOTE: With a sharpie, mark a spline that points directly down, otherwise it might take a couple attempts to get it installed correctly so the wheels and steering are both straight at the same time.

The CV part and splines you want to mark
20180303_121153.jpg
20180303_121153.jpg (205.69 KiB) Viewed 496 times
The view of the part entering the steering wheel
20180303_121228.jpg
20180303_121228.jpg (119.87 KiB) Viewed 496 times
What happens when you don't install it correctly. I was driving in the straight line with the wheel like this.
20180303_132340.jpg
20180303_132340.jpg (316.46 KiB) Viewed 496 times
Other then these additional steps the process is exactly like the video.

I did attempt to measure flow, but after measuring the old and then installing the replacement the numbers made no sense. I figured out the cheap vinyl hose I used had kinks that caused flow issues. However, I later realized I should just measure the temp different between the intake and outtake aluminum tubes, like before. This will pretty much tell you the same thing and is much easier to setup and test then the flow test. Tomorrow, I'll take measurements in the morning and afternoon, the difference ambient temperatures might have an impact. If the difference is significantly greater, then you have flow issues. I will take all measurements with circulation off and at full heat with the AC on and off. Having the AC on should eliminate any ambient temp effects on the difference. I'll post the results tomorrow.
Last edited by velorider on Sun Mar 04, 2018 1:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
abscate
MVS Moderator
Posts: 15430
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:54 pm
Year and Model: 1999 V70T5, 2005 V70
Location: NYC
Has thanked: 117 times
Been thanked: 382 times
Trinidad & Tobago

Re: Narrow Down Low Cabin Heat Issue

Post by abscate » Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:29 am

I would love to get my hands on that heater core and open it up
For inspection. I’m around LA all week, 😀

Pm me if interested !!
1 SWMBO for 30 years
2 Volvos
3 VWs
4 Careers
5 cats/dogs/gears
6 Perfect Ladies in waiting
7 Drivers
8 Boats- with a big pointy metal thing on top

1999 V70 T5M 56 2005 V70 NA M56 VWs BMW

User avatar
oragex
Posts: 3798
Joined: Fri May 24, 2013 6:20 am
Year and Model: S60 2003
Location: Canada
Has thanked: 71 times
Been thanked: 113 times
Contact:
Canada

Re: Narrow Down Low Cabin Heat Issue

Post by oragex » Sun Mar 04, 2018 10:58 am

@ velorider excellent tips, I'll add a comment in the video
@ abscate at the end of this video, I split open my heater core, it didn't look like it was clogged, but it had heating issues because it traps air inside for some reason I don't understand (it's supposedly self-burping)
I'l be doing soon a video showing how I finally chased this air and got more heat
2003 2.4i S60 automatic 125k miles
DIY Volvo repairs videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c

msyverts
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2013 7:56 am
Year and Model: 2001 V70 2.4T
Location: wis
United States of America

Re: Narrow Down Low Cabin Heat Issue

Post by msyverts » Sun Dec 16, 2018 9:04 pm

Hi all, I have a similar problem -- not enough heat -- but after reading this and some other posts, still not sure what's the best thing to try next.

Velorider, did you have a chance to measure those temperatures after the replacement when everything was working well?

(Edited: I moved the rest of my questions to a new post since I realized this one is marked solved.)
Last edited by msyverts on Tue Dec 18, 2018 8:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

velorider
Posts: 155
Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:16 pm
Year and Model: 2005 S60 T5
Location: Long Beach, CA
Been thanked: 4 times
United States of America

Re: Narrow Down Low Cabin Heat Issue

Post by velorider » Mon Dec 17, 2018 12:36 am

Velorider, did you have a chance to measure those temperatures after the replacement when everything was working well?
I'll check tomorrow night when I get home from work and post.

User avatar
oragex
Posts: 3798
Joined: Fri May 24, 2013 6:20 am
Year and Model: S60 2003
Location: Canada
Has thanked: 71 times
Been thanked: 113 times
Contact:
Canada

Re: Narrow Down Low Cabin Heat Issue

Post by oragex » Mon Dec 17, 2018 2:23 am

Just wanted to add a detail about removing thr lower steering column: as mentioned the splines need be marked or the steering wheel will stay turned while driving. If this happens, try not to turn thr steering wheel to lock as this will move the clockspring (steering angle) sensor out of range (Anti-skid message) and even possibly damage it. And of course, disconnect the column only with the wheels straight and don't rotate the steering wheel.
2003 2.4i S60 automatic 125k miles
DIY Volvo repairs videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c

msyverts
Posts: 17
Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2013 7:56 am
Year and Model: 2001 V70 2.4T
Location: wis
United States of America

Re: Narrow Down Low Cabin Heat Issue

Post by msyverts » Sun Jan 13, 2019 9:14 pm

I replaced my heater core in my 2001 V70 2.4T today. Velorider's tips were great. Here are a few more to add:

1. The trick of vacuuming the coolant out of the lines to the core is awesome!! Worked great, I don't think there was even a drip inside. (Though my floor mat has already been soaked with coolant due to a leaky o-ring, so I didn't worry about it too much...need to clean that later.)

2. Also, no need to drain coolant from the system if you clamp the hoses at the firewall with vise grips (I covered the jaws with thin wood from a paint stirring stick). Then remove the hoses at the firewall and vacuum.

3. Someone mentioned making a platform to make it easier to work under the dash. I put a board on top of 2 five-gallon buckets, and a pad on top of that, and it made it a lot easier than when half of me is hanging out of the car into space.

4. If you are reading this you probably already watched the video on the first page of this topic about the brake sensor, but if not, do so...I surely would have broken it if I didn't know the trick to it. Push the pedal down with your elbow or something, pull the white sleeve out on the button of the brake sensor, and push the back of the sensor so it clicks together and lets the plunger out further. Once the white collar is clear of the tabs, then you can squeeze them to get it out.

5. One video I watched took off the pinch bolt for the steering joint, but didn't them remove the whole part from the car. I found out the whole thing pulls out of the steering wheel shaft once that pinch bolt is off and that part removed. So that's easier than I realized. Except marking it and getting it back in the same spot was harder than I thought. I got it wrong the first time. Best to have the wheel straight and not move it when you start. But I couldn’t get the nut loose without turning the wheel to get a better angle on it, and that was my downfall.

6. To get the tubes out of the way of the core, bend them towards the back of the car. Yes, bend them. (Edit: maybe not. See later posts in this topic.)

7. The hardest part for me was getting the tubes back in and seated. The problem was getting them bent back to the original angle to fit. Channel lock pliers helped, though the tubes don't look as pretty as they used to. The way I bent the tubes out of the way was such that when I bent them back, the end of the tube was pointing slightly downwards, rather than fully horizontal. I couldn't really see this, until I realized the flange was pushing futher into the core on the top than on the bottom. It was tough to get leverage onto the tube to bend it back this way. I couldn't get the tubes in at all at first, then I couldn't get them to seat enough to get the clips in, but once I finally got them bent back correctly, it went together.

8. I refilled the new core by putting a hose on it to a funnel and pouring coolant until it just started coming out of the other pipe. Not sure if it matters, but seemed like a way to avoid excess air in the system.

The whole thing took me about 5 hours.
Last edited by msyverts on Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 58 guests