Radiator fan will not shut off

Jake59 · Post by **Jake59** » 09 Mar 2018, 15:28

Last night my wife pulls into our off street parking and the radiator fan (the larger of the 2 fans) stays on. 20 minutes later still on. Turn on ignition to see if there any messages, none, turn ignition off, fan stays on. Finally I go out 10 minutes later and disconnect the battery, and obviously the fan stops. I wait a few minutes and reconnect... fan come back on. Car was not hot it is 40 deg out (winter in Seattle). I left car with battery disconnect overnight and reconnected this morning and the fan comes on.

I am looking to see is this a thermostat issue or as I have read it is a fan control module and one replaces the whole dual fan frame and all ($525). Not a problem if this is what will fix the problem but I do not want to replace the fan if a $125 thermostat is the answer.

Thanks in advance for any help Steve

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 11 Mar 2018, 20:08

"I have read it is a fan control module and one replaces the whole dual fan frame and all ($525)."

You can get new fan control modules off eBay for $35.00. Search for Volvo part numer 940013801.
If you really want to spend $525 you can send the remaining $490 to me

Jake59 · Post by **Jake59** » 24 Mar 2018, 12:32

NOW YOU TELL ME... Well the wife bought the entire fan unit, she found a better price after doing some searches $250 for a genuine Volvo replacement. Now how the "F" do you get the unit out and better question how do you slide the new one in without damaging it?

I have loosened several hose brackets, but still cannot seem to be able to slide it out. Is this like the V70 trans Valve body where for the need of a 1/2 inch clearance, you need to loosen the entire engine mount system to jack up the front end? What is it with the designers today? At first glance there is plenty of room, but then there really isn't, with the stupid plastic tabs. Great, no fasteners on the fan unit, you just need to remove the rest of the engine to get the sucker out.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 24 Mar 2018, 17:02

Look at the date, I told you two weeks ago ....

Remove

1. The evaporative emission system (EVAP) valve from the engine cooling fan (FC) shroud
2. The hose clamps and charge air pipe/hose on the right-hand side (turbo charged engines only).
3. The four tie straps that hold the cable harness secure at the fan shroud.
. Note! Certain vehicles have three tie straps and a clip holding the cable harness at the fan shroud.
4. The cool box plastic hose from the fan shroud.
5. Both the screws holding the fan shroud.
6. Pull up.

ClarkKent · Post by **ClarkKent** » 01 Sep 2018, 11:18

HELP - is this the same problem or something else? I detailed my situation down below. I'd prefer to NOT replace the whole unit if I can go in a different direction.

2010 Volvo XC60 T6 (59K miles) - Engine cooling fan won't shut off. The LOWER RIGHT fan is the one that won't stop while the UPPER LEFT one has stopped. To completely shut off the fan, I disconnected the battery (+). I reconnect the battery, and the fan still runs without turning the car on. Previous posts say you need to replace the whole fan unit or shroud. My initial over the phone estimates FROM NON-DEALER Volvo specialists were about $1000. PLEASE HELP - any and all feedback is greatly appreciated.

- Could this just be a fuse? (I doubt I could be that lucky).
- Good PRICE ESTIMATE for parts and labor?
- How many ESTIMATED LABOR HOURS? One specialist recommended 3 to 4 hours while on other sites it seemed fairly doable from a knowledgeable tech, it just took extra care moving the cables and getting it in properly behind the radiator.
- One place said he could check the valve/sensor and that would be around $450 but, almost always just replace entire fan unit for the $1000
- Any feedback regarding www.yourmechanic.com to do something like this?
- ANY OTHER VIABLE SUGGESTIONS (lose cable, worn out clip, etc.) TO LOOK AT IT??????

I'm no mechanic but, good at working through things. IS THIS DOABLE FOR A DIY PERSON as I really can't spend the $1000 at the moment. OR, WOULD YOU RECOMMEND AVOIDING THE HASSLE and PAYING THE SPECIALIST????

I've seen this posted in a similar post but, have additional questions and would like to request additional feedback. THANK YOU SO MUCH IN ADVANCE! This forum has been a savior in the past and hope to hear back!