Intake manifold gasket. RTV? Surface damage on head.

Gtin · Post by **Gtin** » 26 Apr 2018, 15:15

98 v70 non turbo. So here's the story. Just replaced my starter, figured while I had the fan out of the way I would take another crack at my high idle problem, I suspected a leak at the manifold so I intended to retorque the bolts... Naturally I got hasty and set my torque wrench too high. Snapped a bolt in half. Off comes the manifold and I did get the bolt out with a harbor frieght extractor kit, but not before trying to move it with a screwdriver, slipping, and doing a fair bit of damage to the surface on the head around where the bolt goes in. I'm gonna hit it with a bit of sand paper to remove anything sticking up, but do I need to worry about any indentions around there? Also I was considering some rtv to help the gasket seal. Is that an ok thing to do or am I wasting time?

The good news is I think in the process of taking it apart I found the true culprit of my high idle, the vacuum line that runs from the side of the manifold over to the flame trap or whatever was disconnected. I also found a few gems at the junkyard when I was getting a new bolt, got a new stock air box because mine was lost by the previous owner, an iac valve, a new trim piece for above my spark plugs because mine got destroyed during a head gasket job, and a fully intact functioning cupholder out of an 850. It's got the fully closed circle when I wanted the half circle but it was the only one and I'm happy with it

thebull · Post by **thebull** » 26 Apr 2018, 15:41

Hello there and do not worry. Just make it smooth and even with fine sand paper and you are good to go. This is nothing. Use regular gasket from Volvo or Victor R.
One more thing - do not ever put RTV on the intake or exhaust. It`s very bad idea. Intake could suck some pieces.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 26 Apr 2018, 16:26

+1, just smooth it out. It's minor enough and not too close to the intake port so it should not be a problem. Don't use any RTV.

Gtin · Post by **Gtin** » 26 Apr 2018, 17:53

Got the intake back on and everything connected, still idling at about 1500 rpm. I'm wondering if maybe something is wrong with my MAF, not throwing a code for it but my idle stumbled around closer to 1k when I forgot to plug it back in

Post by **erikv11** » 26 Apr 2018, 19:36

You can run it with the MAF unplugged for a couple hours or a couple days. It will throw a code and because of the default air mixture settings run a little rich, but otherwise run fine if everything else is in order. So if running like that gets rid of the high idle then the MAF is a problem.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 26 Apr 2018, 21:18

Check out your idle air control valve. It probably needs to be cleaned out. Sometimes something will get caught up and the valve will stick opened, causing the high idle.

Gtin · Post by **Gtin** » 26 Apr 2018, 22:34

Yeah I cleaned it a while back and made no difference, I picked up another at pick n pull, tomorrow morning I'm gonna make sure it's clean and swap them out, if no difference I'm gonna try taking a drive with no MAF. Should the iac valve be the only place pulling air at idle? I can disconnected and block the intake hose to the IAC and the car doesn't die. Is that normal?

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 27 Apr 2018, 06:59

That's right, I just remembered your mentioned grabbing an IAC in your first post.
I believe so, yes. If you disconnect it and the idle doesn't change, I would guess that's contributing to your high idle. I can't say for sure, though.

Gtin · Post by **Gtin** » 28 Apr 2018, 01:19

Everything hooked up I idle a bit jumpy around 900rpm with no MAF and pretty smoothly at around 1400 with it hooked up :$

Gtin · Post by **Gtin** » 28 Apr 2018, 01:19

Everything hooked up I idle a bit jumpy around 900rpm with no MAF and pretty smoothly at around 1400 with it hooked up :$