2006 V70 Base Oil Leak-- Front Cam Seals?

Post by **E Showell** » 30 Apr 2018, 09:30

I've got a significant oil leak on the front (timing cover) side of the engine. I have not removed the timing cover to check, but my suspicion is that the leak originates from the front cam seals which I believe are original to the car at 138K miles. Can I change front cam seals without pulling the timing belt? If it is indeed the fronts, then I will change the rears as well.

Post by **regent** » 30 Apr 2018, 10:57

E Showell wrote: 30 Apr 2018, 09:30 Can I change front cam seals without pulling the timing belt?

Hmm... It depends on whether the engine is running or not. If you are a licensed and certified Magician, then yes; even with the engine running

I would not remove the T-Belt completely. If it's relatively, new then just loosen the tensioner, take the belt off the cam sprockets, do the seals, and then put everything back including timing

Post by **regent** » 30 Apr 2018, 11:00

The leak could be from failing o-rings in VVT hubs (probably you have that); you may want to have those ready along with the cam seals

Post by **E Showell** » 30 Apr 2018, 11:04

I am 12K miles from a timing belt change at the prescribed interval of 150K miles (and theoretically 2 years overdue on time). I may just have my mechanic do the change. Water pump with a first new timing belt at 150K miles?

Post by **regent** » 30 Apr 2018, 11:13

I would do the pump now for POM = Peace of Mind that is, otherwise it's with every other TB change. You would want to replace the TB idler and tensioner, also the serp. belt and its tensioner pulley for good measure

Post by **E Showell** » 30 Apr 2018, 11:39

Yeah -- I usually do the whole nine yards with a TB -- Serp., tensioners, etc. That has been my usual practice. Aisin only for water pump as well.

dlundblad · Post by **dlundblad** » 30 Apr 2018, 17:04

If you can do the timing belt, you can do the cam seals.

You just need the cam holding tool. I'd also recommend a low profile (perhaps 3/8"?) T55 socket. I used a 1/2" and hardly had any room.

*** If you take it somewhere, go ahead and do the water pump now as labor will essentially be the same. If you DIY, you could easily wait an additional 30k or so.

Post by **E Showell** » 30 Apr 2018, 19:22

I won't do a timing belt on my own. I've tried and don't have the hand strength to mount the thing. Additionally, the cost of failure is too high for me.

Post by **cn90** » 30 Apr 2018, 19:54

I wrote a DIY: 2005 Volvo XC90 2.5T Timing Belt, Water Pump, Serpentine Belt:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=83521

You need a locking tool (and 2 plastic plugs for the REAR of engine, use only Volvo OEM plugs). Locking tool is $50-$60 on ebay.

-----
The issue of VVT hub O-rings, sometimes it is easier and better to replace the entire hub ($250/each), but if you source the O-rings, then go for it. My guess is the usual seals and not the hub itself (BTW, use only Corteco or dealer seals).
If you go through the thread below and the photos I posted, then you will see the engineering aspect of the VVT hub...

Large oil leak after replacing exhaust camshaft (cvvt) seal - help needed!

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-xc9 ... ded-81251/

Post by **abscate** » 01 May 2018, 03:57

How many miles are you putting on it each year Evan? If it’s something like 10k, leave the OEM pump in and run it for another 5 years, I’ve got thecam lock tool if you are up for it. I can give you a day on one of NJ trips

The belt is simple and not to be feared