2008 S80 axle, keep getting the wrong one Topic is solved

[AlabamaS80]

The boot on the driver's axle of my 2008 S80 3.2 with the sport package split and slung all of the grease out. The car had some vibration under acceleration so I decided to go ahead and replace it instead of doing a new boot. I ordered the first part from Napa and the axle I received had smaller spline shafts on each end. Took it back and they said they didn't have any other part numbers for it. Decided to order a Cardone model from RockAuto and received it today. Same problem, smaller input shafts.

Is there a special axle for the sport package that is a little bit thicker?

[ThommyKent]

The V8 and T6 have the same part numbers. The 3.2 is different. Something tells me if you order a T6 or V8 axle it will be what you need
https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2 ... oints-scat
https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2 ... oints-scat

[AlabamaS80]

I looked at a picture of the part, and sure enough, the T6 or V8 axle is the one I have. Odd that my 3.2 would use that transmission. Is that part of the sport pack option?

[oragex]

You never know with Volvo. They changed part numbers on several items several times.

But I would stay away from Cardone, even the stuff for Napa may or may not be good

I'd rather go with a used part off Ebay, or genuine one if money permits. If you still have the old axle, maybe check it first for play and try buying a genuine boot (again, warning against aftermarket parts). To test an axle for play, there should be none (or very little) axial play at the cv joint at the wheel, and minimal axial or radial play at the cv joint near the transmission.

Vibration under acceleration at speed is sometimes related to worn control arm bushings, how many miles on the car?

[AlabamaS80]

The car has 120k on it. The problem was discovered when I crawled underneath the car and saw the split boot. I had noticed an oil spot on the side of it several weeks ago and just figured my wife drove through something. So the joint had a few hundred miles of work without much lubrication. I'm going to keep the axle and see if I can have it rebuilt to swap out with the aftermarket one that will inevitably fail as well.

[SuperHerman]

As you have the original shaft I would dig deeper into it. As you believe it is damaged you really cannot do more damage. Take off the ripped boot, clean off with old rags as much grease as you can. Spray it with some solvent like carb cleaner. I would shy away from water as the surfaces may flash rust.

Once you get it as clean as possible inspect the surfaces for gouges and the balls for pitting. If it looks good then take it apart and rebuild it. (At this point you can use water and soap if you want, but lightly grease everything once you are done with each part.) NAPA should have a boot that will fit for under $20.00 and it comes with the clamp and grease. Rebuilding CVs is pretty easy, just messy.

I am sure there are write ups on how to separate the cage - some have a removable circlip others an internal one you need to hit pretty hard (sometimes one can push the internal circlip to get it started). Watch a couple of videos if you are uncomfortable - every CV joint is 95% the same.

[Cees Klumper]

I bought (but have not yet installed) a GKN brand axle for my C70 through FCP. GKN is supposed to be Volvo OEM ? Box says Made in Spain which inspires some confidence.
Skandix in Germany sells the smaller inside bearing to these axles, so you can rebuild the original axle, at least that inside besring.

[AlabamaS80]

Just to follow up and put the information in the archives, the V8 axle was a perfect fit. Maybe when the buyer added the sport package it triggered the upgraded axles? Who knows!

This saga was one of the most frustrating of my automotive repair career. The lower ball joint refused to separate from the hub and was destroyed in the process. Ended up replacing the lower control arm. Of course the sway bar mounts with the same bolts as the control arm so I had to use a few washers as spacers to make room for the mount to slide in. Had a lot of trouble getting the new ball joint back into the hub. Ended up using a metal fence post as a long pry bar to push it down in position. I'm not in a hurry to do the other side, even though it needs it!

[ThommyKent]

Yup, it`s always a struggle pushing the lower control down far enough to fit the ball joint. Use whatever works. I used ratchet straps, but I wouldn`t again

[AlabamaS80]

The fence post I used was about 5 feet in length and worked pretty good. Wedged it under the frame and didn't have to put too much pressure on it to get the ball joint in position. Definitely going to do it that way for the other side.