No Sparks... No Idea what to do... Topic is solved

[Dmck]

Can you please confirm the exact place the spark ends? If you plug the line into coil and leave it off the distributor are volts getting to end of line?

If you plug coil line into distributor can you get volts in the center metal mark on the inside of the distributor?

Try sticking a piece of metal and stick it into the coil line and touch the center rotor, are you getting volts at the end of the rotors arm?

[shihabafi]

Testing ignition coil components:

1) Plus side: 12V

2) Negative: 12V

3) When cranked, fell down to ~11V

Cam and rotor (and rotor plate) removed:

My intake doesn't have a vacuum tube on the left side of it. I was confused too, don't worry...

Key in position 2, end of ignition coil:

I'm going to be shedding tears of joy when I fix this thing... Thanks for all the support thus far.

(Ignore the rest of the attachments, just bad pics I accidentally uploaded...)

[Dmck]

if you haven't cranked the engine from previous photos your rotor is on backwards. The rotors arm should around 15 degrees in front of the cam sensor guides front lip. looking at the position of the cam sensor guide I have drawn where the rotors arm should be facing. That is *if* the problem is not the cam sensor guide, but something is wrong. Flip the rotors base plate and see if it matches what I drew. Take a picture for me

IMG_0258.JPG (243.63 KiB) Viewed 88 times

IMG_0257.JPG (235.61 KiB) Viewed 88 times

The two photos below from my previous post show where the rotor should be in relation to the cam seansor guide

IMG_0248.JPG (194.41 KiB) Viewed 85 times

IMG_0247.JPG (85.08 KiB) Viewed 85 times

[shihabafi]

I have cranked the engine since then so it's not aligned at all, I forget to mention that, sincere apologies.

Also, I'm having a bit of a hard time understanding what you're saying due to my lack of knowledge of what the actual names of the pieces are... Okay so you want me to take a picture of the back of the plate that the distributor rotor bolts on to?

[Dmck]

Yes please do and post picture.

Here are two pictures you took. if these are the positions of your rotor and cam sensors guide plate then one of them is wrong. It looks like no cranking was done in between these two photos.

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IMG_0259.JPG (294.8 KiB) Viewed 82 times

[shihabafi]

You're correct, no cranking was done between the two pictures.

As requested:

[Dmck]

Ok so I took the picture you took of the end of the cam shaft and then created a layer of the base plate picture you took. It looks like you have your base plate on backwards.

Did you ever remove the cam sensor plate that is bolted into the end of back exhaust cam? It is possible that is the problem if you did.

But judging by me lining up the rotors base plate with the cam shaft, I believe you had your rotor on backwards. This means the cylinders were getting fired way way late.

Put rotors base plate in like picture below. Notice that all screw holes are not the same distance.

IMG_20180712_1900112.jpg (745.85 KiB) Viewed 74 times

Its still possible if you removed that back cam sensor plate you may have put that on backwards and my guidance is built on bad information.

[shihabafi]

I never removed the plate behind the camshaft position sensor, but I also don't remember taking off the plate behind the rotor either. Whatever the case, thank you for pointing out my error, I applied it in again, this time properly.

[Dmck]

Ok great. Let me know if it fires up. I'm betting it will.

[dj_v70]

Dmck, if the OPs car doesn't fire up, would you be willing to test voltage of your coil while cranking. I think the 11V is too high. Even if rotor is on wrong, the voltage should have been correct. Of course, it might be my senility acting up again. I'd try it regardless out of curiosity, but my cars are too new... ie. 2000 No longer have central ignition coil.