No Sparks... No Idea what to do... Topic is solved

[abscate]

Good use of the jumper cable. So your coil has 12 volts but no spark.

Either the ECU is not grounding it on command (which can be for many reasons which you can't troubleshoot easily) or the coil is bad.

Remove the negative terminal from the battery.

Disconnect everything from the coil and measure the resistance across the primary and the secondary side. If you need help with this just ask. You do need a voltmeter for this step.

[Dmck]

Open up fuse box and make sure the 15 in the number 1 spot isn't blown

[Dmck]

Maybe it's just bad timing and the coil died after your work.. I just hate when the problem doesn't line up with work done.

[shihabafi]

Disconnect everything from the coil and measure the resistance across the primary and the secondary side. If you need help with this just ask. You do need a voltmeter for this step.

...Right, sooooooo... how do I do that exactly...?

What do you mean primary and secondary side?

[SuperHerman]

I am having issues on my Range Rover - and to test whether I had spark I picked up an ignition coil tester. Basically it is a light that has one end that plugs into the spark plug and the other end into the coil. If the coil is working you will see it flashing when the engine runs. I paid $20 for mine at Advanced Auto Parts, but saw some for as low as $10 on line.

Nice thing about it is no chance of destroying a coil and you don't need a helper.

Good tool to have.

[abscate]

Disconnect everything from the coil and measure the resistance across the primary and the secondary side. If you need help with this just ask. You do need a voltmeter for this step.

...Right, sooooooo... how do I do that exactly...?

What do you mean primary and secondary side?

Here is a start...apologies i don’t have coils left on my Cars anymore

How a coil works. We flow current through the primary side, from the 12 Volts and then grounded through the ECU. When the ECU decides it’s the right time. It opens the circuit and the current flow comes to a crashing halt. It’s the change in current whichinduces a large voltage , like 20,000 Volts, in the secondary (far wire) that goes tomtheplugs.

A good coil has to pass current through the primary , the two small connectors, so a resistance of a few Ohms is right

The secondary can’t pass hardly any current, so it’s reistance to ground has to be high , like 20,000 ohms

When you report 12 Volts on your secondary, something is wrong

https://m.wikihow.com/Test-an-Ignition-Coil

[dj_v70]

Just to clarify, when you say to take a test lead, do you mean like, with a multimeter? Or should I just grab any wire and use it as a bridge of some sort?

Also, just took the black ends of my jumper cables and hooked one end on to the end of a spark plug which was connected to a wire connected straight to the ignition coil (bypassing the distributor), and the other end to the negative of the battery, and I got no spark...

Take any wire and connect negative side of coil to ground. Just touch it quickly, don't leave it there. Leaving it there for a long time could kill your coil.

Did you check resistance of the wire between spark plug and coil? It should be < 10kohms.

Still wish I knew for sure whether 11V was right answer from negative side of coil to ground. If so, it has to be your coil or the wire to your plug, or you aren't looking close enough for the spark. Spark can be missed sometimes on a bright day with the engine shaking as it is cranked. It is best to do it at night or with a helper. The coil test above is easier to verify because the engine isn't shaking and you can even hear the zap of the spark.

[Dmck]

Also if you get to the junkyard get another cam sensor if available. It's possible you cutting the bolt off did something to it

[abscate]

Someone is cranking the engine while you are looking for spark, right? Is it spinning over nicely and sounds normal?

[shihabafi]

Open up fuse box and make sure the 15 in the number 1 spot isn't blown

Fuse # 1 is nice and clean.

Here is a start...apologies i don’t have coils left on my Cars anymore

How a coil works. We flow current through the primary side, from the 12 Volts and then grounded through the ECU. When the ECU decides it’s the right time. It opens the circuit and the current flow comes to a crashing halt. It’s the change in current whichinduces a large voltage , like 20,000 Volts, in the secondary (far wire) that goes tomtheplugs.

A good coil has to pass current through the primary , the two small connectors, so a resistance of a few Ohms is right

The secondary can’t pass hardly any current, so it’s reistance to ground has to be high , like 20,000 ohms

When you report 12 Volts on your secondary, something is wrong

https://m.wikihow.com/Test-an-Ignition-Coil

Okay so I don't know if I did anything wrong, but I followed the procedure on doing a bench test. When I touched the right stuff, I didn't get any readings. I'm thinking that I must be touching the wrong stuff... Should I be touching the terminals on the connectors and not the red and blue wires?

Someone is cranking the engine while you are looking for spark, right? Is it spinning over nicely and sounds normal?

yes, there are no abnormal sounds, just can't get sparks...

Take any wire and connect negative side of coil to ground. Just touch it quickly, don't leave it there. Leaving it there for a long time could kill your coil.

Did you check resistance of the wire between spark plug and coil? It should be < 10kohms.

I tried it, but got no sounds or sparks of any sort. Here's some pics from the setup.

I grounded it hovering about less than a centimeter from the engine block, and then used the other end of the jumper cable to tap the negative and then positive end of the battery...

Yes, I did check the resistance of the wires. I also took pictures of that... Safe to assume that's not the issue...