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P80 DIY: Oil Cooler Line Rebuild 3528201 3528207

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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ferocity02
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P80 DIY: Oil Cooler Line Rebuild 3528201 3528207

Post by ferocity02 »

The oil cooler lines on these cars are known for leaking where the rubber hose is crimped to the metal ends. Mine have been leaking for about 4 years, but it was a slow leak. Today I decided to repair them.

The Volvo replacements are a steep $250 for the pair. There are aftermarket brands but the reviews are dismal.

Parts:
1. Russel -8AN twist-lok hose, 6'
2. Oetiker clamps 19-20mm, 8
3. Hose to thermostat o-ring, 2, 968757
4. Hose to radiator o-ring, 2, 6842413
5. Hose to radiator seal, 2 6842414
6. Thermostat gasket, 1, 1366791 (optional)
7. Hose retaining clips, 2 6842411 (optional)

Notes on Parts:
I used this hose because Russel is trusted brand in aftermarket plumbing. There are other quality brands such as Aeroquip. You could also go to you local auto supply and get a hose rated for this application. However, my local auto supply has screwed me in the past when it comes to selecting the wrong hose, so I did not go that route. 1/2" ID works well, but you could go slightly smaller for the tighter fit. 8AN will also work as it has a nominal 1/2" ID, but check the exact ID just to be sure.

For clamps, I bought an assortment kit on Amazon. The 21mm clamps it came with worked well, but they were on the edge to being too big. Fully crimped I could still rotate the metal ends slightly. The 18.5mm clamps were just a hair too small. 19-20mm would be ideal. Worm clamps would also work, but I wanted a more permanent solution, and worm clamps can damage the hose and don't seem to have a very even clamping pressure.

Tools:
1. Dremel with cutoff wheel
2. Oetiker pincers
3. Flat head screwdriver or something else to pry with
4. Various cleaning supplies
5. Box cutter (x-acto)

Procedure:
1. Take several pictures of both lines so you know how they go back together.
2. Mark the metals ends of the lines so you can clock them correctly with the new hose. On the original hose, there was a line that runs the length of the hose. I used this as an indicator of where to mark the both metal ends.
3. Use the Dremel to carefully cut the metal clamp. Once you hit rubber, don't go any deeper.
4. Use a screwdriver to pry apart the clamp. I also used a pair of snap ring pliers to help pry the clamp apart. If you can't get it apart, cutting the other end of the clamp will make it easier to pry apart.
5. Use a box cutter to slit the hose to remove it from the metal ends.
6. Use the old hose to mark the new hose and cut the new hose to length using the box cutter (measure twice cut once!!!). I tried scissors, but mine weren't good enough to cleanly cut through this hose.
7. Clean the metal ends thoroughly. I used dish soap and a sponge in the kitchen sink (don't tell the wife) and then an air compressor to blow water out of the tubes.
8. Slide the hose over the metal ends and clock the metal ends using your marks and/or pictures. The Russel hose has markings on the side of the hose that I aligned with the marks on the metal ends, easy!
9. Crimp the Oetiker clamps, two clamps per end. The clamps should go between the ridges of the barb ends.
10. Reinstall the hoses with the new o-rings and go for a drive. The drive needs to be long enough for the oil to get to full temp.
11. Inspect for leaks.
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erikv11
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Re: DIY: Oil Cooler Line Rebuild

Post by erikv11 »

It's been quite a while since we saw a DIY oil cooler hose write-up; and probably never had one this good!

Thanks!
'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 145k
'98 S70 NA, 220k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 293k
'06 S60 R, 167k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 130k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k
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abscate
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Re: DIY: Oil Cooler Line Rebuild

Post by abscate »

Nice clean workmanship, and many $$$ saved
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abscate
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Re: P80 DIY: Oil Cooler Line Rebuild 3528201 3528207

Post by abscate »

Added part numbers to title for search

Ouch, these parts are still available new but cost $125 each

Only used in turbo cars on P80s
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Peevarino
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Re: P80 DIY: Oil Cooler Line Rebuild 3528201 3528207

Post by Peevarino »

That’s a wonderful write up, don’t know how I didn’t see this when I was researching doing mine.
09 XC70 3.2
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abscate
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Re: P80 DIY: Oil Cooler Line Rebuild 3528201 3528207

Post by abscate »

Marked to make this guy an MVS Contributor!

You can also use PEX crimp connectors from your hardware store , sourced locally
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Re: P80 DIY: Oil Cooler Line Rebuild 3528201 3528207

Post by abscate »

Lets size these o-rings and link to the master o-ring thread please

I can do the transmission ones for a 1998 today
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Re: P80 DIY: Oil Cooler Line Rebuild 3528201 3528207

Post by alpha318 »

Has anyone thought of converting Volvo Fittings to AN fittings?
If so, anyone have part numbers?
Those who say, "Money can't buy happiness", obviously never bought a turbo charged car, or paid a pet adoption fee!
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