Acceptable Amount of Lateral Rod Bearing play Topic is solved

[- Pete -]

Awesome, thanks for the encouragement.
I've been up & down and all over the place, but mostly down lately with this whole thing, so that really boosts me up.
What about that little tiny bruise on the corner of the rod bearing?
You can see it in picture numbers 5 & 6, it's the top left corner of the bearing.
It definitely hit the ground on that corner.
I feel like that little bruise or burr will contact the journal & make a small groove in it?
Or is the journal tough enough and the shell that soft where the shell will deform/reform (reduce that burr) to the point it won't matter?
Or can I knock it down a bit, back to flush, with a piece of wood rubbed across it?

get plastigage and measure that rod bearing clearance on that rod with it torqued and angled maybe 45 degrees

So insert plastigauge thread between bottom bearing & journal, torque rod cap, then turn 45 degrees, and then remove rod cap & measure the squashed plastigauge thread?
Do I do the 45* swing (normal rotation I assume) then back it up 45*'s & remove rod cap?

[- Pete -]

get plastigage and measure that rod bearing clearance on that rod with it torqued and angled maybe 45 degrees

Maybe I misunderstood you. I'm guessing you mean turn the crank 45*, then put the plastigauge & rod cap up & torque, then remove & measure.

If I were to put the plastigauge in with the journal at "bottom dead center", then torque rod cap, then rotate 45* I would think I would get a false reading since the plastigauge would "smear", no?

I'm taking the rod cap to a machinist to see what his opinion of that little bruise is. The guy at Orielly's where I got the plastigauge said "don't worry about it", but I'd rather get a pro's take on it.

[jimmy57]

NO, The tightening procedure for rod cap bolts is to torque them and then turn them 90 degrees. Don't do 22 ft-lbs plus 90 degrees (1/4 turn) ,do 22 ft-lb plus 45 degrees (1/8 turn). You want a plastigage measurement and the rods will close up without doing the full bolt rotation that stretches the bolt the full amount. Turn them less, and save a bolt stretch cycle when it is not necessary to see if the rod cap does refit and is OK to re-use.
No one can tell you an answer to this. If you bolt cap on with plastigage strip in place and then put cap on and do the abbreviated tightening, it will either crush plastigage to the correct range and it is OK or the plastigage is narrow indicating the rod cap didn't go together due to that spot and then you're removing head, driving out piston/rod and changing the rod. THAT rod holds its answer. That another rod with a defect on surface did or did not close up again does not give you an answer for THAT rod.

I have pulled and replaced rod caps on several Volvo white motors and the ones where cap was turned the wrong way or was the wrong cap and it was bolted together it made large areas where the grain was crushed. These rods had visible gaps where they filed to close together when bolts were tightened. Your boo-boo on the rod is small and I really think from the size and place that it will be fine. The only way to know is to try it with the plastigage there to let you know if it closed together and is OK to use.

[- Pete -]

Plastigauge'd & torqued to 22 lb/ft + 90* swing and measurement came out to .0015".
Think I'll start putting it back together.

Machinist said the "burr" won't contact the journal & not to worry about it.

I also pushed the piston up to look at the top shell and it looked to be in the exact same condition as the lower shell.

Edit: I just saw your post about doing a 45* swing after torqueing. Too late now, darnit. I prolly did closer to 75*'s though.

2nd Edit: How many times are these rod bolts designed to be re-used/stretched? If the factory did it once then I just did it the second time to get my plastigauge measurement, and now will be doing it a 3rd time to do the final assembly is that too many?

[jimmy57]

Don't worry about it. I know of many of these engines that have had to rod bolts re-used multiple times.

[- Pete -]

As far as this anaerobic sealant goes, I've read about using a roller to smooth out a 1-2mm bead and such, how critical is this?
I was thinking just go around all the bolt holes, not sure about encircling the seal pockets, then smooth out with finger so not much pooches out into the pan once the bolts are torqued.

Also, pre-start, should I hand crank to prime everything?
Or just pull the fuse for the injectors and turn over with the key?

[SuperHerman]

Some use their finger to smooth. Were it me I would go to the dollar store and buy a foam roller that comes with storage tray. If you keep it clean you can reuse the roller every time you use anaerobic sealant.

I have heard mixed on pre-start. Some say prime others say no need. Me I would have put build lube on generously, then I would hand crank, then I would pull the fuse and turn it over. It only adds a bit of time if you hand crank before complete reassembly.

[- Pete -]

Thank you Herman, You're right, why do anything but what is the Volvo recommended procedure at this point.

So with this oil PSI relief valve on the top of the oil filter housing, I tried to find a replacement but it sure is an evasive little bugger.

Mine is now clean & as far as I know works as it should?

I can blow compressed air through from the top side (as if blowing air into the filter housing from the crank case), but cannot blow air from the filter housing to the crank case above it.

Is that operational?
Just want to know before I put this pan back on for good.

[jimmy57]

Volvo recommended procedure is short hair or foam paint roller application. The anaerobic sealant is used on machine close fit pieces for sealing and structural integrity. Thick IS NOT BETTER. NOT 1-2 mm!! (silicone/RTV sealant is used in that thickness on flat surfaces) If you do more than a thick single coat of paint equivalent layer then the sealant has lots of oozed out residue with some of this going into oil passages and into engine. The sealant sold by volvo does not use a primer/accelerant. Volvo practice is thoroughly cleaned and degreased surfaces with sealant applied to the part with no dowels and no sealant within 3 mm of the cam journal bores. For the oil pan the same clean and apply method. Install pan with a few snugged bolts with one bolt per side at rear sides of pan at transmission end and then run the 10mm (14mm hex head) bolts into trans and snug those. Now install the rest of pan bolts and torque them and then torque/tighten the two transmission bolts. The staging of these bolts assures that the pan is flush against the trans and pan is flush against the engine intermediate section. There is risk of trans bolts keeping the pan from going flush or pan bolts preventing the pan from going flush to trans.

[- Pete -]

I can blow compressed air through from the top side (as if blowing air into the filter housing from the crank case), but cannot blow air from the filter housing to the crank case above it.

Is that operational?
Just want to know before I put this pan back on for good.

I read til my eyes about bled last night trying to find this SOB, but here it is.

Oil PSI Relief Valve part number: Volvo 463963

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/prod ... 63963.html