Oetiker project stopper. Zip tie instead?

[JimBee]

The new axle seal is installed as is the cv refurb with cv cleaning, new grease and GKN boot, the axle's set to go back in except for the large oetiker clamp. I can't get it tight enough to catch the tab. The local shop guys suggest using a heavy duty zip tie instead. I'm tempted but would really like to get the oetiker clamp properly installed. Suggestions?

EDIT: Just noticed a post on this. But the oetiker clamp tool seems to be just a variation of a cutter, which I have. Crimping isn't the problem on mine; it's constricting the clamp enough to hook the the tab (spur) in the end slot.

In that thread, somebody mentioned a zip tie tightening tool. That might be my answer.
Ahhh: Harbor Freight has the heavy duty zip ties AND the tightening gun.
https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustabl ... 67076.html

First up for tomorrow. Guess that's how I'll secure the boot unless somebody can clue me on how to set the oetiker clamp.

[jimmy57]

I open Oetikers that I can't get to catch. The pre-crimped area can be opened up by putting the clamp on a vise with the jaws opened 3/16.I position the crimp area not inline but perpendicular and then drive a metal chisel (or a screwdriver) and tap to use it as a wedge to open that crimp. Sometimes I have to follow that with turning it over and doing the same from other side and then using needle nose pliers to grab and reshape the crimped area. Once installed I can close the crimp still. I have used CV boot kits that came with cable ties and they did not last so I will not do that now.

[j-dawg]

Can you not fit a worm drive hose clamp in there? That's what I use for pretty much every boot I install, never had a problem with them.

[oragex]

No worm clamp an axle boots, even the 'round' holes worm clamp from Volvo is not safe. It slacks in time and the CV will spit grease.

Even worst to use this on tie rod boots, it will let water and humidity go inside and rust the rack rod surface which will destroy the rack seals.

A heavy duty zip tie good for winter temps may work on both axle and tie rod, but I largely prefer getting non OEM clamps from the junk yard and use a cheap oeticker pliers like this one: note that this will never work on OEM Volvo clamps but will work on aftermarket clamps perfectly well (try not to use those cheap chinese thin clamps either)

The oeticker pliers is really not the same as a regular cutter pliers, the oeticker tool also pushes down the bent section, which actually does secure the crimped zone to stay bent. This is what makes the crimped area to keep the clamp tight enough.

To open a clamp I use a quality diagonal pliers, insert the sharp end inside the crimped clamp, bent, open and make sure it's with open so as to be able to 'catch' the clamp when I'm reusing it. I should make a video about this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CV-Joint-Boot- ... :rk:3:pf:0

[precopster]

I have an Oetiker tool but jimmy57s answer was spot on; the crimp can be adjusted if you're patient enough.

I have used zip ties but find that they break when pulling them to my preferred tension so I may go through 2 or 3 of them before I'm happy with the tension.

[JimBee]

Thanks to all for the helpful suggestions!

All I need is an extra 1/16" but if I flatten the crimp crown to gain that extra length how will I be able to grab the crown with the crimper to tighten it?

[erikv11]

I think the idea is to only flatten the crimp a little bit, enough to catch the clamp holes on the tab(s). Presumably it is close, or else it is the wrong clamp? Which GKN boot did you get? I have done several P80 axles in the last year, both inners and outers. Some were tight but I could get them. Is the boot over the groove where you are crimping?

Are you sure you need to flatten it? For axle boots I often get the extra bit by using a small flat head screwdriver inserted through the hole in the Oetiker band, and levering the end of the band/clamp onto a tab. Then tap it down and squeeze the crimp.

[oragex]

It shouldn't be an issue to open the 'omega' section larger, make it an 'A' until you can grab the small hooks, no worries, you will be able to crimp it back. If the clamp is a genuine Volvo one you won't be able to crush it down like it was originally but you will be able to make the 'omega' crimp side to side with a strong cutter

[JimBee]

As far as I can tell the boot's clamp channel is over the cv's groove. The boot is Lobro/GKN 300427 for the 93 850 mt. It was spec'd by the Volvo's vin. Although I had to stretch the large end of it maybe a 1/4" to get it over the cv housing, it seemed right. The other end had to stretch too, but went on quite easily with the proper tool (1 1/4" plumbing extension to push it on and lite spritzing of silicone spray to help it along).

I did the other side when I bought that car 10 years ago. I vaguely recall a similar struggle but I did get it.

I tried the small flat tip screwdriver, but there's nothing really to catch the end on to pry against. What's frustrating is it's so close to catching.

I wonder if my band type oil filter tool might get around it. If so that would squeeze it evenly and probably do the trick. I'll look into that tomorrow.

I picked up some heavy duty zip ties today and the tightening gun. I'll try a couple more things tomorrow and just zip tie it if the oetiker defeats me. One concern I have about the zip tie is the heavy duty one I'd use is just a bit wider than the boot's channel and possibly the cv groove. Pulled tight enough tho, it should be okay.

[jimmy57]

'omega' section

I love it!!! I never heard it called that but that is PERFECT!