OEM brass heater core source?

wasaabi · Post by **wasaabi** » 24 Jan 2019, 08:35

I have a ‘97 960 wagon. First of all, I *adore* this car. As a multiple Volvo (and Saab) owner, there is something special about these last RWDs. Quality, industrial, mechanical—and just cool— in a way that my ‘08 XC70 can’t compete with (that is a great car too, but in a very different way).

I’m getting foggy windows along with escaping coolant and so it looks like it’s heater core time. I am fairly mechanically inclined and plan to tackle this job myself in the spring. I expect to get stuck in a few places and jump on here for help.

Since I never want to have to repeat this job, I would like to buy the best heater core I can get. I understand that the Volvo one is no longer available (at least in USA). Anyone have an idea for a source of a quality brass core? I don’t mind paying for international shipping. The cost is not an issue for me considering that I will be investing days of my (cheap) labor to do the job. Also, while in there, I’d like to replace the leaking vacuum diaphragms. I understand that these are also not available, and used parts would likely fail soon enough.

I would like to keep this car in the road for many more years. It has only 146k and is in beautiful shape. So, thanks for any source ideas!

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 25 Jan 2019, 01:55

Volvo part number 1307236, Discontinued Part No Longer Available For Purchase.
You you would be real lucky to find some old stock.

Skandix in Germany still has six of them listed. Said to be "Genuine product from vehicle manufacturer"
Cannot say if they will ship to the US. €290.06 about $328.00.

wasaabi · Post by **wasaabi** » 25 Jan 2019, 06:24

Thanks. Are there any aftermarket brands that are brass not aluminum (lower heat output)? Even if discountinued maybe it can be located. Or at least are there any options that are better than the standard “junk?”

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 25 Jan 2019, 07:13

Aluminum has twice the Thermal Conductivity of brass, better heat transfer.

The engine blocks are Aluminum so an Aluminum heater core would be less susceptible to galvanic corrosion.

The the protective oxide layer that forms on aluminum is better then the the protective oxide layer that forms on brass. Aluminum is sometimes add to brass to get a better protective oxide layer.

I got no issues with using a Aluminum heater core over a brass heater core.

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 25 Jan 2019, 08:02

RickHaleParker wrote: 25 Jan 2019, 07:13I got no issues with using a Aluminum heater core over a brass heater core.

When plastic inlet/outlet fittings are attached, within 30 years, they do fail where "glued" together

They all fail, brass/aluminum....coolants used today are much better.....so, I can't really say which is better. My 1993 vehicles still put out lots of heat, and I'm not aware of their heater cores being replaced.

dm635 · Post by **dm635** » 27 Jan 2019, 08:03

I had to do the heater core on my '96 960 recently. I guess 2 or 3 months ago. The glass fogged up and did not clear up, along with the sweet smell of coolant. I used an all aluminum heater core. A brass core was listed. Whether it was actually available I don't know. I do know the cost was about $350, too much for me. The Spectra aluminum core I used was right around $50. It has worked perfectly. Now doing this job is not fun. It is located up against the firewall. A lot of disassembly. From the radio straight back. If I had to pay a shop to do it for me I probably would have said good bye to the car. My guess it would have been 1,500-$2,000 for the repair. Once the heater core is out the vacuum pods are easily removed /replaced. If you are short on patience this job will certainly test you.

dm635 · Post by **dm635** » 27 Jan 2019, 08:11

And, I'm sure when I was looking for a 960 heater core it was the same core as used on the 740.

I probably shouldn't mention this, but my '91 745 heater core is just fine.

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 27 Jan 2019, 18:09

dm635 wrote: 27 Jan 2019, 08:03If I had to pay a shop to do it

Trivial - IIRC, for a 240 Volvo, replacing the blower motor is around 7 hours shop time.....replacing heater core would not be an issue when blower motor is replaced.

dm635 · Post by **dm635** » 30 Jan 2019, 05:10

I've done a 240 when I had a 242, nofun.

Here's a tip for the 960. To get the wood grained center trim off, the trim around the radio, ashtray, just that whole piece. I struggled to get it off without breaking/cracking it. I went to PULL A PART to practice on a junk car before doing mine. I found 2 clips that if not released you will break the center trim.

They (the 2 clips) are hidden by the radio. With the radio removed you will see the 2 clips that need to be released. If you know they are there you can remove the center trim piece without breaking it. Release the tension on the 2 clips and the center trim is now ready for removal without breaking/cracking it. I hope this makes sense.

It's not a pleasant job, most of the duct work must be removed as well. Putting it all back together I had a lot of cuts on both my hands. The 2 clips inside where the radio is probably the biggest tip I can give you. That prevents you from destroying the center trim. Just look for the cutouts once the radio is out. Then it's just working your way to the firewall. After I was done I referred to it as a $50 part in a $2,000 location. Doing it yourself you will be much more careful putting it back together. I can only imagine what damage someone else would do if it's not their own car. Reassembly is just as bad as disassembly if you're doing it right. There's a lot of short cuts you can do. But that will more than likely cause your vent selection to not function as it should.

wasaabi · Post by **wasaabi** » 06 Feb 2019, 09:23

Thanks for the help. I ended up buying the Hella / Behr heater core from the UK via eBay for less than $40 shipped to USA!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hella-Interior ... 2749.l2649
Oddly, the core has this twisty white plastic thing inside the core which moves around loosely which is visible through one of the tubes. Apparently this serves some sort of purpose inside the core.

I'm going to wait for a warm spell so I can take several days to do the job. So I am just trying to get my ducks in a row. Thanks for the advice on the trim.

I'm thinking that I might as well repair/replace the vacuum bellows (those "pancake" things) while I do this, since I have the typical vacuum leakage in the HVAC system. Of course these are discontinued, and there is a thread elsewhere about someone substituting a modified chevy part. My question is how to check these once I have access to the area, and if they can possibly be repaired?