Has anybody noticed this on the white block

dm635 · Post by **dm635** » 30 Jan 2019, 06:24

I've had this happen on my white blocks during cold winter temperatures. I've had 4 960's, an XC and an 850. When very cold and while checking the oil the dipstick will have what's called milkshake on the dip stick. What I'm calling milkshake is like water mixed with oil. It's like a light brown film like if you had a bad head gasket. It doesn't do it during warm temps, only while very cold. And it's done it on every white block. Pull the dip stick and it's on there. So I'm asking if anyone else has noticed this happening. I had it yesterday, but didn't pop the oil fill cap to look inside the top of the engine. Is this something that happens on the aluminum white block. Checking on my other non white block engines it's not there.

It's enough to scare you into thinking that you have a bad head gasket. But it's not there during the warmer months. It seems to effect the white block only.

Yarddogperformance · Post by **Yarddogperformance** » 30 Jan 2019, 06:38

Its ok dont freak out.
When fluids cool they tend to pull moisture.
So verify that your oil trap system is working and then stop short driving your car, once a day, let it warm to full temp and than drive for 30 min. This will not stop your issue as this is normal my cars do it too. Even my race car would do this in cool weather., however it can damage an engine if it gets to an extreme, that is why oil only lasts so long, eventually the condensation tampers with the chemical makup of the oil.

Change your oil on time and get the engine to full temp 30 min plus every few days, but vey very good attention, not many people notice this

Post by **Rattnalle** » 30 Jan 2019, 06:54

You don't need to heat the engine up every few days. Having the car parked doesn't really matter. It's not driving shorts trips that's important. Or at least making sure there's a long trip every once in a while to cook the moisture away.

That and a properly working PCV system.

dm635 · Post by **dm635** » 31 Jan 2019, 08:20

I live out in the country so just about every drive the engine gets nice and warm. I could see short trips being a problem by not getting to full warmed up temperature.

Just last night I was having a discussion with a knowledgeable friend about switching to synthetic oil. We all know that everybody has an opinion when it comes to oil. My 960 is 23 years old with about 203K on the clock. My fear in switching to synthetic comes down to one single seal. That would be the front crank seal. I had a difficult time removing the harmonic balancer with an engine out of the car. I can only imagine doing that job with the engine in place.

We both agreed that continuing to use regular old dino oil would be best as it's been good all this time and mileage.

Now another oil issue, to keep it simple I've used Rotella 15-40 in my 3 cars. This year I've gone to a thinner oil on the 960. Last winter on the coldest days my 960 would vibrate and shake for a while. Going to 10-30 this winter that problem has not been a problem. Starts up nice and smooth. I think it was due to the very fine/close tolerances in this wonderful engine causing the oil pump to work extra hard pumping the thick 15-40 oil. I've not used that thin of an oil for many many years. Pulled out my owners manual last night and it lists 4 different grades depending on temperature.

5-30
5-40
10-30
15-40

Couple of notes on the 15-40, high speed driving, Mountain driving, towing a trailer and most important in my case is not to use in low ambient temperatures. It's 2`Fahrenheit here in KY this morning.

Post by **jimmy57** » 31 Jan 2019, 09:01

Thicker oil likely caused rough running due to hydraulic tappets on that engine not being able to adjust as readily with thick oil. Tappets allow for loose clearance by getting filled with oil but no clearance is accomplished by oil leaking from tappet and thicker oil will not leak as readily, especially when cold. I have not had or heard about synthetic oil changeover making leaks on engines in 20 years. Regular oil base stock is a much better, closer to synthetic oil these days. The specs getting tighter over the last couple of decades has demanded it. Synthetic has advantages due to greater molecular consistency but those advantages are less than when synthetic was introduced years ago and was a far different oil than regular crude refined motor oil. The seals used in any white engine were developed given that synthetic oil would be used. Synthetic oils were more commonly used much sooner in Europe. The cost difference was not as great so more persons used it. The general idea of taking better care of something so it lasts was more ingrained in most cultures over there too. I bought a 2004 V70R and it wasn't too clean inside from what you could see. I used synthetic oil in it and a wet spot from cam seal leak diminished and dried up over time on that car with synthetic.

dm635 · Post by **dm635** » 31 Jan 2019, 10:11

I had to do an engine swap last year and replaced quite a few seals while I had it out. The one I took out is the one I disassembled. The harmonic balancer was one Mutha of a job. I know that the theory of synthetic is now just an old wives tale, but my luck the most difficult crank seal would be the one to leak. There is semi blend oil now too. I'll just stick to Castrol 5-30, 5-40 or 10-30 Dino oil. And of course a good filter. A Mann, WIX or Napa Gold. I believe the last 2 are the same filter packaged differently.

STAY AWAY FROM FRAM filters my friends.

lummert · Post by **lummert** » 01 Feb 2019, 09:18

Shell Rotella T5 Semi-Synthetic is available in 10W-30 and 15W-40.

dm635 · Post by **dm635** » 01 Feb 2019, 10:34

May just try it out. I like to stick with the same oil. I've got to go with a new oil on the 960.

The 740 does fine with the 15-40 as does
The big ol 3.5L straight 6 on the BMW. All 3 of my cars have over 200K on the engines.

Before changing to a lighter oil on the 960 I used to buy the 2.5 gallon jug of the Rotella 15-40.