[2001 V70 2.4T] Thorough brake bleeding job?

[prwood]

The last time I bled the brakes on my V70, which I did when I was replacing the front brake flex hoses, I wasn't able to complete the job because the bleeder screw on the right rear wheel would not come off. Since then, brake pedal travel has been excessive (well more than the 40mm max specified when engine is off, after 3-4 brake presses), and I'd like to do the job properly. I've purchased a replacement bleeder screw for the right rear wheel and my plan is to use whatever measures are necessary to remove it (I have some better tools and techniques at my disposal than I did last time).

This is the procedure I used last time, from ALLDATAdiy:

- The brake pedal must be depressed throughout the operation. This is so that the brake system is not drained of brake fluid.
1. Switch off the ignition.
2. Clean around the brake fluid reservoir filler cap.
3. Take out the container.
4. Remove the filler cap.
5. Fill the brake fluid reservoir completely.
6. Raise the car
7. Bleed the brake caliper on each wheel in the following order: left front, right front, left rear, right rear
8. Bleed using the following procedure:
a. Remove the protective cap from the bleed nipple. Connect the hose from the collection bottle.
b. Depress the brake pedal a few times. Maintain pressure.
c. Open the bleed nipple.
d. Depress the pedal fully. Keep it fully depressed for approximately 5 seconds. Release it again. Repeat this 3-5 times until there are no air bubbles in the fluid coming out of the hose.
e. Tighten the bleed nipple.
f. Remove the hose from the bleed nipple. Install the protective cap.

I've also been looking at some tools to do a "power" bleed, not sure if it's worth it. Harbor Freight sells this one that hooks up to your air compressor:

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-flu ... 92924.html

That one seems unique where the other ones I've seen apply the pressure from the master cylinder end.

[hu5ker555]

I've always done it by just connecting a hose to the bleeder screw, and keeping the end of the hose submerged in a bottle of brake fluid. Seems to work OK and can be done solo. I use an old Gatorade model with a hole in the lid and about 2" of fluid in the bottom.

[Rattnalle]

Personally the last few times I've been able to just open the bleed screw and let it drip from gravity until a deciliter or two has passed. Done on all wheels there'll be mostly new fluid in there.

However of there's been too little fluid in the system the abs pump needs bleeding as well. Either by running it using vida or just braking on a slippery surface so the abs works for a while.

[prwood]

Personally the last few times I've been able to just open the bleed screw and let it drip from gravity until a deciliter or two has passed. Done on all wheels there'll be mostly new fluid in there.

However of there's been too little fluid in the system the abs pump needs bleeding as well. Either by running it using vida or just braking on a slippery surface so the abs works for a while.

I turned up this thread asking whether a scan tool is necessary to fully bleed the brakes on an ABS car. The response seems about half and half as to whether this is a wives tale or not.

https://community.cartalk.com/t/why-can ... s/109091/9

[Rattnalle]

Personally the last few times I've been able to just open the bleed screw and let it drip from gravity until a deciliter or two has passed. Done on all wheels there'll be mostly new fluid in there.

However of there's been too little fluid in the system the abs pump needs bleeding as well. Either by running it using vida or just braking on a slippery surface so the abs works for a while.

I turned up this thread asking whether a scan tool is necessary to fully bleed the brakes on an ABS car. The response seems about half and half as to whether this is a wives tale or not.

https://community.cartalk.com/t/why-can ... s/109091/9

The vida repair manual specifies it as a requirement if the pump has been replaced or level has been low enough to make it possible for air to enter the pump. IIRC. But just driving and braking so the abs works will achieve the same thing.

[tardcart]

I have never been able to get a broken bleeder out including heat and easy outs. You will need to replace the caliper. dont try drilling it, it ruined the seat.

[Rattnalle]

I have never been able to get a broken bleeder out including heat and easy outs. You will need to replace the caliper. dont try drilling it, it ruined the seat.

I've gotten a few out using a pipe wrench..

[tardcart]

However, there should be no air in the rear circuit, the resivour is split into two chambers and running the front dry won't affect the rear.
you have air up front or seized guide pins or new hose loose. its best to work quickly when replacing hoses and calipers so it doesn't go dry. Stick a plug in as necessary.

[Rattnalle]

I thought the split reservoir was only for MTs so the clutch would go dry before the brakes? Or rather clutch leaks wouldn't affect the brakes as much.

[jimmy57]

Split res is used as TardCart said. Clutch cylinder fluid pickup point is high enough to assure that clutch doesn't run the area where it attaches dry.