Chasing a P0014 (and maybe my tail?) on a 2001 V70XC

[- Pete -]

I decided to roll the exhuast cam back one tooth, back to where it was initially. I mean if it ran that way before I "advanced it" 1 tooth, no harm. I figured if the code it's generating is that the cam is too far advanced, advancing it further isn't doing anything good. So I set it back to where it was.


After rolling the exhaust cam back 1 tooth, it looks like actually the intake cam is off by a tooth, or part of a tooth, or am I delusional?

Considering that, is it possible that since the intake cam has NO sensor on it, that it is actually the cam that is off and generating the P0014?

Am I risking anything by rolling the intake cam back one tooth to where it appears it might align closer to "spot on"?

Right now, with the exhaust cam rolled back to where it was before I advanced it, it starts & runs, but loping idle is still present.

In addition, I felt the VVT hub for play, and there is a miniscule amount, not as severe as this guy in the video below, but there is a tiny bit.

Here are all my marks:

Ok, that was a couple days ago.
So I got my parts today, I put in the new solenoid & BCV/TCV, started the engine briefly without the serp belt on & it ran ok, then the loping idle began again.

I need a little advice. Looking at my timing alignment marks, do you think I should roll the intake cam sprocket back 1 tooth?

[- Pete -]

Well, as with all of my Volvo-related tasks, I'm going to hold off on feeling elated for at least 1,000 miles. I am experiencing a little relief though. After re-timing the intake cam (rolling it back counterclockwise 1 tooth) & installing the new VVT solenoid (& turbo BPV), unhooking the batt & touching the pos to neg for half a minute or so, I fired it up, had misfire codes on cylinders 1-4. Kinda puckered me up a bit. Even though it was running smooth, for once, I shut off the engine, restarted the engine and my software after clearing codes. Ran smooth enough that I decided to drop the car down & drive it & see what the real-world numbers looked like on the logger. Boost was back, throttle response & power was back (to what I'm used to with non-code producing XC70's), Still had/has a little "lurch" type feeling around 1200 rpms, but ZERO codes being thrown. I drove it for 20 minutes or so, re-scanning every 2 minutes or so for codes. Will do several start/stop cycles to verify & report back here with anything new.

So I've now driven it for at least 45 minutes, even went and got a carwash. I dumped & flushed the trans after 1/2 can of Trans Tune & then drove it another 20 minutes.
I detect a couple stumbles here and there, but overall it behaves like you'd expect a healthy XC70 to.
I can't say whether the new solenoid did the trick, or re-timing the intake cam, a combo of the two. I also installed a new Turbo Boost Pressure Valve, but I doubt that had anything to do with it. Went over all the vacuum lines & re-secured some rubber hose that was half pulled off a nipple near where the intake pipe heads into the turbo.
What I do know is it runs perfect now & I feel like it's pretty safe to say that an intake cam that's too far advanced on an exhaust-VVT-only turbo motor can trigger an exhaust cam timing over-advanced (p0014) code.

Thanks for your help!
I'll post back with an update every couple thousand miles or so.

- Pete -

[abscate]

I decided to roll the exhuast cam back one tooth, back to where it was initially. I mean if it ran that way before I "advanced it" 1 tooth, no harm. I figured if the code it's generating is that the cam is too far advanced, advancing it further isn't doing anything good. So I set it back to where it was.


After rolling the exhaust cam back 1 tooth, it looks like actually the intake cam is off by a tooth, or part of a tooth, or am I delusional?

Considering that, is it possible that since the intake cam has NO sensor on it, that it is actually the cam that is off and generating the P0014?

Am I risking anything by rolling the intake cam back one tooth to where it appears it might align closer to "spot on"?

Right now, with the exhaust cam rolled back to where it was before I advanced it, it starts & runs, but loping idle is still present.

In addition, I felt the VVT hub for play, and there is a miniscule amount, not as severe as this guy in the video below, but there is a tiny bit.

Here are all my marks:

Ok, that was a couple days ago.
So I got my parts today, I put in the new solenoid & BCV/TCV, started the engine briefly without the serp belt on & it ran ok, then the loping idle began again.

I need a little advice. Looking at my timing alignment marks, do you think I should roll the intake cam sprocket back 1 tooth?

Great news! Added solution to title for search, good sleuthing.

[- Pete -]

Next step for me is to take the plunge & finally purchase Vida/Dice!

[DeadEric]

Sounds like your cam phaser is advanced and you have a bad vvt solenoid by what you said before you cleaned it. Being a device that uses electricity to move it mechanically, ohm checking it is half of the equation. If you'd like I can explain how it works in detail but I'm trying to keep this short. Cleaning it the way you described could not only damage the solenoid but allow the gunk to flow past the screens and into the phaser.

Not being familiar with P0014 this may or may not fix your problem. You might have to find a shop that can do an accurate cam/crank correlation test.

You also mentioned that it ran better off idle. This is normal, higher rpms is when the phaser would activate and advance (usually with load.)

Lastly, with the P0014 setting immediately after code clearing, the non continuous monitors will not run. Meaning other codes will not be tested or set until this is fixed and a drive cycle is run. Cat and evap test are usually the last to run.

[abscate]

Vida will actually map the cam position for you and tell you exactly what is going on.

I would have thought that the cam error would be triggered only by the sensor position but maybe the ECM algorithm is more complicated than that.

I think I’ve read here that up to three notches on the cam sprockets are safe in terms of interference so bumping a notch or two is safe.