2005 XC90 T6 Executive Project Car.

[RickHaleParker]

Went with the $21.00 route, she rang it us a Air Duct $5.80

Got the engine back together, it runs much better now. It is drivable and can keep up with traffic.

Transmission shifting is wanky but it appears to be retraining and is getting better. The first time out, it won't shift in Drive until 5500 RPM and then it is a slow and lazy shift. If you let up on it, it will shift normal. Manual shifting is normal. Second time out it was shifting more normal.

Clanking coming from under the vehicle, I suppect it is the Propeller shaft's front CV joint. I can feel it with my right foot against the tunnel.

One low beam not working, confirmed the HID Xenon bulb is defective.
No high beams. Front parking lights not working. Will check the H1 high beam bulbs and the parking light bulbs.

I had the RSE (Rear Seat Entertainment) working. Took the rear center console out to see what it would take to fix the hinges. It stopped working again.

Only one ECM problem, suspect that is a wiring problem because I put a set of remanufactured injectors in.

Current DTCs.

ECM-2C2B Injector cyl 3 - Signal missing
ECM-3230 Misfire cylinder 3 - Start up

CEM-9C03 Antenna/light ring Signal missing

UEM-0004 Siren Communication fault
UEM-0005 Sun roof Communication fault
Sun roof inoperable. Alarm does arm.

[bmdubya1198]

Is that symptom of transmission failure? Hopefully it’s something that can be solved with a couple drain-and-fills. Those 4T65s aren’t known for their durability.

[SuperHerman]

Good move on the $21 route less $15.20. Solved that issue on the cheap and it is out of the way.

How does the transmission fluid look? Don't recall if you did a fluid flush. I think with VIDA you can do some deeper transmission analysis. Hopefully it is not a fatal issue.

On the drive shaft - front CV. Look at the carrier bearing to make sure it is not the issue. The front CV does go dry and misbehave due to the added heat of the engine/exhaust. If the carrier bearing is good you can try repacking/relubing the front CV. It can be disconnected, boot carefully pulled back and wipe and spray it clean then regrease. Other option is to buy a new assembly - I picked up one on Ebay for a very reasonable amount. You can leave the assembly in, just support it so it doesn't hard stress the center carrier.

If you have any of the old injectors, pick the best one and try swapping it out with number three. Give it a cleaning first and move parts over from the others to make a good one.

Sounds like your alarm siren is out. You can access it from the right front headlight - unplug it and remove the safety screw. Then cut it open and see if it can be salvaged or if the battery acid ruined it.

[RickHaleParker]

Transmission Fluid is clean, clear and odor free, however it is amber in color, like fresh oil. It looks like the ATF is undamaged but the additives are all used up. ATF change due. Found a source of AC Delco 10-9395 Dexron VI for $18.75 per gallon with free shipping. Transmission Capacity is 13.4 quarts = 3 gallons and 1.4 quarts.

Propeller shaft and front CV joint are rock solid in terms of XYZ Axes. Rotational play is almost null.

First I'll clean up the connector on Injector #3. If I swap injectors, I'll swap two of the new ones and see if the missing signal moves to the other cylinder.

The Sun Roof (SRM) and the Siren (SCM) share the same CAN Bus from the UEM.
The Rain Sensor Module (RSM) is working, From that we can deduce the UEM is working.
The UEM is in the rear view mirror. I'll go after the connector to the mirror/UEM.

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[RickHaleParker]

It firing on all 6 now. Connector to #3 injector came loose. The only DTCs are the Siren and Sun Roof, them two can wait.

Engine is running good, transmission is shifting good.

Ignition lock cylinder is pretty worn out. When shutting the car off, you got to play it to get it to go to POS 0. I may need to go to a dealer and get a new lock cylinder. A dealer can get one precoded to the key I have.

Pretty sure it is not the Shift Lock. Playing the Key will get it to POS 0, playing the shifter does nothing.

[RickHaleParker]

Sounds like your alarm siren is out. You can access it from the right front headlight - unplug it and remove the safety screw. Then cut it open and see if it can be salvaged or if the battery acid ruined it.

Great The "safety screw" is a shear bolt. VIDA said to remove it with Nut Nippers. No idea what Volvo means by Nut Nippers (Not sure if I want to know ).

I can get to the connector but cannot feel or see the release. Looks like I may need to take out the whole fender liner, to get more room to work and see what I'm up against.

[SuperHerman]

I have always done it by taking the liner off on the three cars I have done. It was not until the last one I did that I learned on the XC90 one can get to it via the headlight. I have never done it this way.

If you can get there this route I strongly recommend it. Drilling out and replacing rivets in plastic never works out well.

Use a vice grips to grab the security screw and turn it. Once the bolt breaks free it can be undone by hand. If you cannot get a vice grip on it, maybe you can get a Dremel in there and cut a slot. I had success with a vice grip - and upon reinstall replaced the security bolt with a standard 10mm of same length and pitch.

Do some searching for pictures or videos on the alarm module. They appear to be all the same - (the set up for the S80, XC90 and XC70 I did were the same). That will tell you what you are up against.

[RickHaleParker]

I have always done it by taking the liner off on the three cars I have done. It was not until the last one I did that I learned on the XC90 one can get to it via the headlight. I have never done it this way.

If you can get there this route I strongly recommend it. Drilling out and replacing rivets in plastic never works out well.

I pulled the headlight. 1/2 of the alarm siren is blocked by sheet metal. No way it is coming out through the headlight cavity. It might be a different story for the 70s and 80s but it not going to happen on this XC90.

A FCP video suggested pushing the shear bolt with a spring loaded center punch 75+ times to loosen it, rotary tool an edge if necessary.

I got Vice grips, three different sizes of rotary tools, drills, pop rivets and gun, I'll try go through the fender well. Slot the head and then use a square shank screwdriver and a wrench to break it loose if necessary.

PS: Got a pair of Strut mounts ordered. That would be a good time to do the alarm siren.

[RickHaleParker]

Is that symptom of transmission failure? Hopefully it’s something that can be solved with a couple drain-and-fills. Those 4T65s aren’t known for their durability.

It simmered down after I got the engine running right. Its like it could not make a decision with all the ECM codes.

[eapowers64]

Like mentioned by SuperHerman, I used a Dremel tool to cut a slot in the shear bold and then used a larger standard screw driver. It was easy to do and I have very little wrenching experience.