Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo XC90s. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America).
bmdubya1198 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 11, 2019 10:12 pm
Is that symptom of transmission failure? Hopefully it’s something that can be solved with a couple drain-and-fills. Those 4T65s aren’t known for their durability.
It simmered down after I got the engine running right. Its like it could not make a decision with all the ECM codes.
Glad it seems to have cleared up!
I just tagged my '03 S60 today, and that has a BAD flare into 3rd gear. Hopefully an updated B4 servo and drain & fill will knock that out.
On the shift lock, the books say one of two things worn ignition lock or interlock cable.
The lever with the yellow locking sleeve not moving all the way forward. Weak spring on the ignition lock end?
I slid the interlock cable at the yellow locking sleeve . Key goes back to POS 0. Shifter will come out of Park with no effort. Down side the interlock is not working. I can remove the key in any gear and the shifter can be moved when the car is off. Still, it a quick fix until I have time to track down the root cause.
Clanking from under the car. Strut mounts are broken.
SuperHerman wrote: ↑Thu Aug 22, 2019 4:55 pm
If you can get there this route I strongly recommend it. Drilling out and replacing rivets in plastic never works out well.
Do some searching for pictures or videos on the alarm module. They appear to be all the same - (the set up for the S80, XC90 and XC70 I did were the same). That will tell you what you are up against.
Getting the liner out of the way was not too hard.
1. Removed the fasteners on the front edge.
2. Removed two nuts on the backside.
3 Drilled one rivet on the plastic bracket holding the liner to the molding.
4. Pulled the backside over the bolts then down until front edge slipped past the plastic bracket.
5. folded the liner back and out of the way.
Cut a slot on the security bolt. Could not turn it with screwdriver. Cut a edge on the security bolt, then used a hammer and chisel to back it out.
Disconnected the alarm siren and the sunroof came back to life.
Both leads to the battery are burnt in two. Board looks cooked.
Board actually doesn't look too bad. If you have a VOM and a soldering iron you may be able to save it. Depends if you want to do the work.
Start by cleaning it with some alcohol and a Q-tip, but be careful not to further damage any of the traces. Once it is cleaned up use your VOM and check if the circuit path is still working. By this I mean pick a spot and follow the trace and check for continuity. Do this for ever trace that looks suspect. If you find some broken ones either use a very small wire and bridge it or just use solder and bridge it that way.
I forget what the battery voltage on it is (7.2V), but that should be easy to dig up. You can power it with regular batteries to see if the unit works (not sure if you even need batteries for testing). If it works then figure out how you want to power it (plenty of write ups and ideas on the forum). There is a charging circuit for the NiCads so don't leave non NiCads hooked up for too long). Get some epoxy or some use clear nail polish and seal up your repair and any traces (very thin layer to cover the electronics from air/corrosion).
You can buy a used one with a warranty and then cut that open and swap out the batteries - but make sure it works before you cut it open. Batteries last from 6-10 years and then start to leak. A new one can be had for about $250. I have gone both routes - the used one was just starting to leak, but had no board damage. The ones I have opened up from my cars were completely rotted with nothing to work with trace wise.
Good info. I think the alarm siren on my 01 S60 was causing a small battery drain. I pulled the fuse yesterday and it didn’t struggle to start today.
I might try to pull it out and check it out once I figure out the VVT issue I’m dealing with.
Used is a good plan, but I would still open it up and replace the batteries. That way you won't have to touch it ever again (at least for a long while). Bottom line is the NiCads leak - it is normal. Warranty or not, you still have to rip the thing apart. Only concern is you open it up, it is rotted out (but working) and Erie won't honor their warranty. I suppose you could call them and tell them your plan.
SuperHerman wrote: ↑Tue Sep 10, 2019 7:28 pm
There is a charging circuit for the NiCads so don't leave non NiCads hooked up for too long).
The battery pack Rating: 7.2V 150mAh.
The 3 cells are N2H280, they are Sealed NiMH (Nickel-Metal Hydride). Which is a good thing because they been phasing out NiCad (Nickel–Cadmium) for the last 13 years, Cadmium pretty toxic.
Google "Volvo N2H280" then run through the links. You will confirm it.