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Big project weekend. Need advice on best sequence

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

jmorman
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Big project weekend. Need advice on best sequence

Post by jmorman » Wed May 22, 2019 2:18 am

I’ve got a pile of boxes from various ipd sponsors waiting for Saturday morning and I’m praying I drive it to work on Tuesday. Any ideas on best sequence or tips would be gratefully appreciated.

My list.
Timing belt/water pump/tensioner
Possible cam seal leak (I’m super busy right up to Memorial Day so this will have to be diagnosed Saturday)
Engine mounts just doing all three now.
Turbo lines

If time.
Boost gauge
Dash swap. This is the one my girlfriend hopes gets done most of all. :-)



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Clemens
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Re: Big project weekend. Need advice on best sequence

Post by Clemens » Wed May 22, 2019 4:16 am

Start with the timing belt and be sure to have everything you need. you will need a short torx for the tensioner or roller. try your toold before you start by removing the timing belt cover and test fit the tools you have. be sure to spray the two bolts for the lower ziming belt cover with penetrating oil before you get down there.

cam seal leak: haven't had one yet (knock on wood) but I'd try ATP 205. This cured my RMS leak after a few hours of runtime and it has been dry for 2 years. (knock on wood again).

lower hydraulic mounts: do them one at a time and loosen the lower tranny torque mount. the one under the crank pulleys is easy to do. the front one under the radiator is easy to do, you might need to pull the fan shroud to get the mount out. I had to do it on my Turbo with AT and AC. The rear hydraulic mount can be a bear. Quite tricky to reach and grab the upper nut. you will need to lift the engine uncomfortably high to get the rear one out. if you run out of time or energy, leave the rear one for a fun night during the week.

Turbo lines: if you mean the vacum lines, two are okay to reach, for one of thrm you might have to pull the turbo or wastegate unit off. if you do so, you can remove the compressor side of the turbo without having to remove the whole thing. Rober DIY has a video on that.

The upper dash pad is not that much of a hassle timewise, but the complete dash is said to be a weekend job by itself.
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bmdubya1198
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Re: Big project weekend. Need advice on best sequence

Post by bmdubya1198 » Wed May 22, 2019 7:53 am

I'd definitely start with the timing belt. Do that and the cam seals all in one shot. In the case of a cam seal leak, it's easier to just fix it than use a stop leak, which may cause other issues. Then again, I have heard good things about ATP 205, so if you have something like an RMS leak that you don't want to fix, it could be a great option, but I don't see the reason for that here.

I assume you are referring to the vacuum/TCV lines on the turbo, those are fairly easy to do. Do those after the belt.

Then take care of the engine mounts. Like Clemens said, the one under the crank pulley is pretty easy. The front hydraulic mount isn't bad either, but the rear can be a bit of a pain. Just take your time and make sure you are safely supporting the engine.


2000 V70R Venetian Red/Charcoal M56 Swapped 191k
2000 S70 GLT Mystic Silver/Taupe 2??k
2003 S60 2.4T Silver/Black 108k
2007 XC90 V8 AWD Sport Titanium Grey/Black 160k
1993 944 Base Beige/Beige 221k
1992 Miata Mariner Blue/Black 146k
Sold-
1998 V70 GLT Black/Beige 193k
1998 S90- Silver/Gray 207k
1995 850 GLT Tropic Green... crushed
2001 S60 2.4T Black/Black 230k
1988 744 Turbo M46 Beige Metallic/Beige 188k- Never should have sold it


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jmorman
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Re: Big project weekend. Need advice on best sequence

Post by jmorman » Wed May 22, 2019 9:03 am

Turbo coolant lines.
I believe it to be the place of my slow leak. A lot of lines have been replaced in the last year so I’m hoping this will be the fix



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Re: Big project weekend. Need advice on best sequence

Post by bmdubya1198 » Wed May 22, 2019 3:22 pm

The top coolant hose for the turbo is easy. Just make sure you remove the screw(s) holding the hard line to the turbo. As for the lower hose, it can be a little tricky, but it's not horrible. Use good quality hose clamps and ensure you have the correct length hose. Being that your car is a 2000, you should have the short one. I've seen '99s with the old style longer hose.

As for when to do them, it doesn't matter if it's before or after the timing belt job. Drain the coolant once and do all of it.


2000 V70R Venetian Red/Charcoal M56 Swapped 191k
2000 S70 GLT Mystic Silver/Taupe 2??k
2003 S60 2.4T Silver/Black 108k
2007 XC90 V8 AWD Sport Titanium Grey/Black 160k
1993 944 Base Beige/Beige 221k
1992 Miata Mariner Blue/Black 146k
Sold-
1998 V70 GLT Black/Beige 193k
1998 S90- Silver/Gray 207k
1995 850 GLT Tropic Green... crushed
2001 S60 2.4T Black/Black 230k
1988 744 Turbo M46 Beige Metallic/Beige 188k- Never should have sold it


Need used parts? PM me!

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Re: Big project weekend. Need advice on best sequence

Post by Archer » Wed May 22, 2019 9:49 pm

Doing all the mounts is well worth the effort, significant noticeable difference. As mentioned, the rear can be a grind. The top nut has to be loosened/removed and I’m pretty sure I was able to loosen with a clumsy universal swivel joint/15mm socket, but ordered a proper 15mm swivel socket to tighten. Have to utilize an extension set-up to get over it from the top, funny angle when seated, easy to slip off when trying to break the nut. Definitely remove the fan shroud for the front....refresh wire conduit/electric tape (3M Super 33+) as you go. Replace all vacuum lines while you’re in there or when you do the PCV system refresh.



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