Timing belt question

[xtwister]

I changed the timing belt last weekend on a new to me v70t5
i aligned the crank mark to the marking on the block. I couldnt see the notches on the
teeth as in the tutorials. The cams aligned to the proper notches on the cover.

First start it stumbled abit for the first second or 2 and smoothed out. Battery was disconnected during belt change.
2nd day of driving I got the ECM-261a. While i reset the code it did that stumble again for a second or two again.
I also checked the connection to the Maf.

Code came back during the next drive (abit faster this time) It also seems like during midrange it doesnt quite have the
pickup for a 250hp engine (unless I really step on it and it drops a gear) But I'm not sure because I dont really get too many chances to step on it because of traffic and didnt do it before because the old belt was way past due since I didnt know the history of car.

Question is.. if the belt is off a tooth, what would be the symptoms? Is it the VVT doing the timing and figuring itself out?
Is the 261a code totally unrelated? Also on todays drive the CE light turned off on its own. (I had the AC on this time)

[tardcart]

for a quick timing double check turn the damper till the large scribe on its face points straight at the front timing belt and then check the cam marks. you just have to take the main cover off and turn the wheels to see the damper and get a socket on it to turn cw. dont even have to jack it up or remove the tire. one tooth off on the crank is a lot and I doubt it would run. Usually the exhaust cam goes on one tooth retarded since its hard to snug up the belt across the cams.

[xtwister]

Thanks for the reply tardcart. When i did it last weekend I checked the cams with 5 rotations.. yes overkill but they were aligned.
I was concerned about the crank. I did align it to the notch on the crank pully... I didnt see anything that was inscribed. I did pull the crank pulley off because i couldnt put the new belt on like I could on an s70.

You mentioned if the crank was off a tooth then most likely it wont run, which in my case it runs smoothly.
I'll still check when the engine is cold. I was going to check earlier but everything was still hot.

So the 261a is unrelated to the belt change? Although the CE is gone for now?

[oragex]

Anything else done along with the belt ? Water pump, coolant, thermostat ? Tensioner needle in the middle with the engine cold 70F ?

This is how the two notches on the crank teeth look like. Notice the bump on the block side is closer to the notch on the left - normal https://images.matthewsvolvosite.com/s6 ... -marks.jpg

Also the notches on the cover and rather hard to match with those one the cams, because we can't really look perpendicularity to them - I used a pen to make sure they match, especially the exhaust side

Have to say, I put my belt back two times with the battery removed, and upon firing up it doesn't stumble at all, it starts like any day.

[MDK]

Hey all...so.. this is a cam locking tool from IPDUSA. it's really for the old 850's up to 1998. But why hasn't anyone made one for the P2 5 cyl? Did I miss something? Or I am being unrealistic in a simple approach? Wondering..

[xtwister]

Thanks for replying Oragex. I also did the tensioner and pulley. I did the tensioner for cold engine as it wasnt driven in over 24 hours. I did not do the waterpump as the car has 170k km or around 100k+ miles. It does concern me the engine stumble after first start and code clear. Seemed odd to me, thats why i'm asking the questions. I'm also new to the VVT, and if that had some impact on the first start stumble.

[abscate]

You can’t just align marks on a VVT engine, you have to pretension the cam by passing the mark down m then go backwards to align. Lots of threads on vvt.

If it’s off by up To three notches it will run but code. One notch off is barely noticeable if you drive with a light foot.