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ATF flush and pre-additives?

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Mr. Detail
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Mr. Detail

ATF flush and pre-additives?

Post by Mr. Detail » Mon Jun 03, 2019 7:41 am

Heh guys;
I found a bottle of Amsoil and a bottle of Sea-foam pre-transmission flush cleaner on my garage shelf and wondered what your opinions are of adding one of these before draining and re-filling the ATF.



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abscate
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abscate

Re: ATF flush and pre-additives?

Post by abscate » Mon Jun 03, 2019 7:50 am

If it is your first drain and fill (D/F) , skip the additives and look at what comes out first. 95% of the time these transmissions respond great to new fluid (total 3 D/F space over a few months) without any help.


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Georgeandkira
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Georgeandkira

Re: ATF flush and pre-additives?

Post by Georgeandkira » Mon Jun 03, 2019 9:58 am

+1 on the advice given above.
If the fluid is black or "merely" brown and chunky (I've seen both, so don't laugh) the refill will get you started.
How many miles are on your 2002?
When mine was @90.2K (~a year into my ownership) I had a TCM download (pn 30677036) done at a dealership.
It improved shifting noticeably. A small hiccough is why the original owner elected to sell it.
He attacked the glitch with fluid a replacement (s?) so the fluid was crystal clear red.
I did something else but you have to ask what it was because I do not want to alter the intellectual trajectory of this thread.



Mr. Detail
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Mr. Detail

Re: ATF flush and pre-additives?

Post by Mr. Detail » Mon Jun 03, 2019 10:22 am

Heh GeorgeandKira;
I bought her last July and at the moment she has 155k miles on her. As far as I know, the fluid has not been changed in awhile.
Can I also pose the question which i think I have seen the answer already, that I should always buy OE Volvo ATF. I know it is
much more expensive but probably worth it.



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Georgeandkira

Re: ATF flush and pre-additives?

Post by Georgeandkira » Mon Jun 03, 2019 1:38 pm

abcdetech has started a thread above and I just pulled the fluid name "Idemitsu Type-TLS" from it. It's said to be closest to Volvo fluid.
Lots of people have used Toyota T-IV as have I. I've also used Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc LV (not regular, old fashioned DM), Wolf's Head Super Universal Synthetic and AW T-IV in 5 of these units with success. I don't think any of these is far off.

Old, foul fluid cannot be near original specs. That's why even just one drain & fill can result in tremendous improvement. Why hasn't your (or anyone else's 150K+) unit blown up.

I'm not going to suggest which you should buy but if the fluid comes out old and foul I'd bet the 3.5 qt. refill using any of the ones mentioned above wouldn't hurt. After a couple of hundred miles driving you can do it again using whatever again. If you get to the point where you do a cooling line pump-out, you can economically commit to the 10-12-14 quarts of Volvo fluid.

The initial skimping might appear cheap but throwing the best fluid into a filthy system might be just wasteful.

By the same token, if you do a pump-out, make sure you do a drain and fill first so the pump out process begins with clean fluid. I got the sump of an earlier V70 full of clean fluid first and my pump-out which started BLACK ran clear red after only 8 quarts. Many post that they have run 12-16 quarts through the system.

Also remember that dirt is said to accumulate in the torque converter. There'll likely be some dirtying of your new fluid during the subsequent 1,000 miles of driving. Too bad you're so far away. But if the 240 mi. round trip is OK with you, I'm near Hackensack, NJ-Garden Spot of the Garden State! Cheers



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Mr. Detail

Re: ATF flush and pre-additives?

Post by Mr. Detail » Tue Jun 04, 2019 5:43 am

Just found three gallons of Pennzoil ATF on my garage shelf and wondered if it is OK to use this brand and type.
It says on the jug, "Dexron III / Mercon". Can I use this for my first flush? Not sure about how to flush it other than buying
that flush kit that IPD sells.



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Re: ATF flush and pre-additives?

Post by EngineeringBloke » Wed Jun 12, 2019 5:53 pm

The term flush is not a good one. The basic options are to:
- Drain about half the ATF via the ATF drain plug, and then fill back with an equal amount of new fluid into the ATF dipstick hole. (Half as fluid remains in the torque converter and other parts of the transmission.)
- Run the engine to pump out 2 old quarts via the ATF coolant line, stop engine and add 2 new quarts via the the other end of the ATF coolant line (Gibbons method).
- Do drain and fill, then do Gibbons - as suggested by georgeandkira.

When you drain and fill, or even with the Gibbons method, there is mixing of the old and new fluid. Some of the old fluid remains in the transmission.

If you add ATF fluid that is not suitable for your transmission, you will not get it all out. I think that using Dexron III is not appropriate and will be a costly mistake with likely damage to your transmission. Get some Toyota type IV, or other reasonable and suitable ATF.

The idea is to improve the quality of the ATF in your transmission, using the wrong type of ATF does not do that, even if it removes aged fluid. Slipping transmissions result in mechanical damage quickly that will not be fixed by later use of the correct fluid!

Also it has been suggested that if the ATF is aged (e.g. >90K miles or so), then do not try to replace all of the fluid, and using a drain and fill or the ATF coolant lines replace only about half the ATF. Then drive the car for a month or so, and repeat - changing half again. With the mixing, you get 50% new, then 75% new. This can be repeated further times.

I do think there is a lot of unsubstantiated information about the transmissions, changing the fluid and transmission failures. But always use a correct ATF.

As abscate suggests, try a drain and fill without additives first. Check the condition of the drained ATF for color and smell. Is it burned, black?



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Re: ATF flush and pre-additives?

Post by SuperHerman » Wed Jun 12, 2019 6:31 pm

I have had good luck with the SeaFoam Tranny additive. I have had good luck with Valvoline Max Life. Others don't like the Max Life as they claim it is too thin. They may be right in their applications.

Were it me I would get a gallon of Max Life and put in the Seafoam (1/2 can). Do a drain and fill and repeat after 500 or so miles - you may need an extra quart of Max Life and then run it for 5000 miles and either use Toyota Type IV or Max Life for a drain, fill and drive. If you don't have concerns about the Max Life being too thin - stick with it, but try to get the fluid clear with drain, fill and drives at intervals that work. Only 2-4 quarts come out each drain and fill.

Max Life is listed as compatible so it won't harm anything - it is pretty reasonable price wise. If you don't like the performance switch to Toyota Type IV and drain, fill and drive until you are happy with the performance. Trying Max Life will cost you $22 gallon as you already own the SeaFoam.
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Georgeandkira
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Georgeandkira

Re: ATF flush and pre-additives?

Post by Georgeandkira » Sat Jun 15, 2019 8:17 am

I hate to sound like a nit but, in my experience the Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc LV is the specific fluid people should buy.

I believe the Maxlife name has been on several ATF types (and motor oil too). The DexronIII / Mercon product Mr. Detail unearthed is NOT to be used.



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Re: ATF flush and pre-additives?

Post by SuperHerman » Sat Jun 15, 2019 2:25 pm

Not a "nit" at all - if Valvoline sells a better "more compatible" fluid I am glad to know of it.

I use MaxLife b/c it is cheap and easy to find AND compatible. Next time in need I will look for the LV.



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