2013A XC90 - 150,000 Miles To-Do List

[Smokepants]

Thank you Paul!
I’m going to do the dump, measure, refill with same amount. From what I have read you can do this a few times to cycle the old fluid out. I don’t mind this approach. I don’t have the means to monitor the tranny temp to set the level with vehicle up to temp and running. My scangauge works on my VW for this but can’t find info about using it on the XC90.

The ATF specification for MY 2013A were revised. Make sure you have correct ATF type for 2011. Unless someone says otherwise, a 20-minute of idling will bring you in the range of VIDA recommended 50ºC temp, NOT above 60ºC. The ambient in our garage is close to 70º-72ºF.

Once heated, ATF temp rises quickly, make the drain for LEVEL at 40T a quick task.

Do not forget to shift through the gears with 10sec between each gear after the fill -- engine NOT running. Repeating few times during the ATF warm up has worked for me.

[Smokepants]

Thanks for the tips. I will have to get it done before the snow flies. Going after the rear end, Haldex, and front angle gear fluid first.

[xHeart]

Vac pump serviced, installed and working. Now moved on to work on water pump, belt, pulley and tensioner replacement. Belt tensioner cocked, belt loosened, ps fluid line removed. Fun engine to work on relative to our V70XC.

MVS_VacPump_0292.jpg

MVS_Pulley_0291.jpg

[xHeart]

With vac pump and tensioner removed, the ps pump takes somersault and steers out with relative ease -- imagine reversing your car from the driveway to the street, and then twisting forward toward the compressor for a lift off.

Belt shows cracks all over. Now preparing to replace and install.

MVS_BeltTensioner_0299.jpg

MVS_AgingBeltTensioner_0301.jpg

MVS_WaterpumpRemoved_0302.jpg

[xHeart]

Cleared the space to install new water pump and coupling.

Now that I have done it. Rehearsing PS pump install, I say, it is possible to remove and install water pump without vacating PS pump -- just push it back as far in to the bulkhead.

Now taking a break, waiting for the new rebuild BOSCH/ZF PS pump to arrive, meanwhile few pix.

MVS_WaterpumpInstalled_0303.jpg

MVS_SetuptoInstallPSpump_0305.jpg

MVS_SetuptomountPSpump_0306.jpg

[xHeart]

Tools from HFT for woking with two 25 torx screws at the PS pump pulley to coupler. The screw can be reached from behind the pressure hose connection -- a straight shot, pulley is rotated so screw is at 12 0'clock. It is better with black knob off the jig.

This is job takes good old dexterity working with 10mm wrenches. No space for torque tool, so go by experience.

MVS_PulleyTorxTool_0308.jpg

[abscate]

Hey, that’s a puppy diaper!

Woof woof woof

[xHeart]

Hey, that’s a puppy diaper!

Woof woof woof

It once was. She is now a fully grown loving family dog.

It may just be a placebo, but the engine feels quieter. The new tensioner, belt, pulley, water pump, coupler, and rebuild BOSCH/ZF ps pump are working together with no issuse. The coolant level is now stable. Crowfoot NOT flare wrench is best for the pressure hose connection at ps pump.

Next item for this service interval is Haldex. Control unit repair kit pn 31259351, and filter pn 31325173 in 60 days.

[pgill]

Excellent summary!!!!

And very nice pictures.


As for the Crow Foot vs Flare nut comment

I think I used --> SK Hand Tool 42316 6 Point 3/8-Inch Drive Full Polish Crowfoot Flare Nut Wrench, 16mm

Amazon has some amazing deals on parts that are sitting in inventory for a long time.

List price is $30.35 (regular price at SK web site) and I paid $7.56


I could be wrong it may have been 17 mm and not 16 mm (I can't remember for sure)


I do recommend changing the O-ring

For me I use the Land Rover part because I was already buying some Land Rover parts

LR009387 O-ring for power steering pump (Volvo Part# 31202809)


I apologize for not recommending the O-ring replacement sooner.

Take care

Paul

[pgill]

Pictures of the O-ring

IMG_5009.JPG

IMG_5011.JPG