IPD sale Volvo Parts
Did you know? 🤔
Logged in users can get email notification of topic replies Log in or register (free).
Amazon Link Buy your stuff using this and it helps MVS!

'97 850 - repair or scrap?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's extremely popular car line -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, 850 R, 850 T5-R, 850 T5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

eslupin
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Jul 09, 2019 1:32 pm
Year and Model: 1997 850T
Location: California
Has thanked: 12 times
Been thanked: 0
United States of America
eslupin

'97 850 - repair or scrap?

Post by eslupin » Tue Jul 09, 2019 1:49 pm

Hi all,
long time advice-gatherer, first time advice-seeker ...
I have a '97 850T wagon, much loved, that is looking at more repairs than I think it may be worth at this point -- about $3,300 in pressing needs (according to my Volvo speciality shop, which I generally trust and respect) plus some more regular service needed on top of that. Some of the bigger ticket pressing needs (including parts and labor):

$637 - new rotors and pads on the front (50/50 parts and labor)
$244 - replace right front spring seat
$405 - replace left front control arm
$152 - replace sway bar link - left front
$660 - replace oil cooler hoses
$900 - engine breather box replacement [I've read the threads on DIYing this but am not equipped for it]

not marked as pressing by the shop but I figure it should be done along with other front axle/suspension stuff:
$400 - cv joint boot (left) (with the "kit", 98$, plus $300 labor)
$400 - axle oil seal right

Car has about 200,000 miles on it - odometer stopped at 150xxx.

I have two questions, I think:

1) Whether anything here seems (unreasonably) overpriced, worth taking for a look elsewhere. It's a good shop and I don't mind paying a premium, but I don't think I can afford to do everything here... (Total cost with tax and other regular 5k service which it needs, etc, is ~ $4400).

2) Whether there's anything else, based on what /currently/ needs fixing, that's likely to go out very soon. (E.g., if one CV boot is bad, will the other follow shortly? Same questoin for the control arm / sway bar, which they're only doing one side of.)

Scheming for a way to keep the car, but need it to be in shape for a cross country move this fall . . .

thanks in advance for your advice . . .



User avatar
erikv11
Posts: 9035
Joined: Sat Jul 25, 2009 2:03 pm
Year and Model: 850, S/V70, 06 S60R
Location: Iowa
Has thanked: 54 times
Been thanked: 178 times
United States of America
erikv11

Re: '97 850 - repair or scrap?

Post by erikv11 » Tue Jul 09, 2019 3:30 pm

I'll let someone else chime in about whether the specific shop costs are in line though offhand I think they are.

Unless you can DIY some of this work, it is probably time to move on.

Here is the lowest hanging DIY fruit:
> Pads and rotors is a really easy job. Watch a couple YouTube videos, they don't even need to be for this car to be very applicable. Parts cost is about $180 for likely better parts than the shop will give you, that includes bleeding the brakes. Savings = $350

> Front control arm is the easiest of all the suspension jobs. Three bolts and a big hammer, some cursing if it is your first time. Parts cost is $100 for Lemforder and I highly doubt your shop uses that high quality part. Savings = $300.

> Sway bar end link is your second easiest of all the suspension jobs. Two bolts but you need to counter-hold the ball joint. Cost for the highest quality Lemforder part is $16, save yourself $140

The other jobs are more involved but you can cut $800 off the tab quickly with these.

No, I don't see one of these things going bad suggesting the other will follow soon. But I do like to replace the control arms in pairs because they are so cheap and easy to do, especially while you are in there for brake work.
These users thanked the author erikv11 for the post:
eslupin


'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 140k
'98 S70 NA, 210k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 280k
'06 S60 R, 160k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k

clifford06
Posts: 304
Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2013 5:03 pm
Year and Model: 2000 T5
Location: texas
Has thanked: 3 times
Been thanked: 2 times
United States of America
clifford06

Re: '97 850 - repair or scrap?

Post by clifford06 » Tue Jul 09, 2019 3:48 pm

Greetings. These are high prices in my opinion. But, they are shop prices. This car has unknown mileage. To spend $4400 on a car that more than likely to need unforeseen repairs is a gamble. These are all suspension / braking/ driveline repairs. If you have read this board for a while, you know the next repair is waiting for you to finish the this repair.
My opinion is if you can't do some of this yourself ,buying your own parts , and paying a decent shop for labor , its not worth the investment. These cars will make you cry after spending / fixing the type of repairs you have listed , and it won't start the next day.
These users thanked the author clifford06 for the post:
eslupin



brunocerous
Posts: 252
Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2015 5:24 pm
Year and Model: 1998 V70
Location: Maplewood, New Jersey
Has thanked: 29 times
Been thanked: 7 times
United States of America
brunocerous

Re: '97 850 - repair or scrap?

Post by brunocerous » Tue Jul 09, 2019 6:05 pm

erikv11 wrote:
Tue Jul 09, 2019 3:30 pm

Here is the lowest hanging DIY fruit:
> Pads and rotors is a really easy job. Watch a couple YouTube videos, they don't even need to be for this car to be very applicable. Parts cost is about $180 for likely better parts than the shop will give you, that includes bleeding the brakes. Savings = $350

> Front control arm is the easiest of all the suspension jobs. Three bolts and a big hammer, some cursing if it is your first time. Parts cost is $100 for Lemforder and I highly doubt your shop uses that high quality part. Savings = $300.

> Sway bar end link is your second easiest of all the suspension jobs. Two bolts but you need to counter-hold the ball joint. Cost for the highest quality Lemforder part is $16, save yourself $140

The other jobs are more involved but you can cut $800 off the tab quickly with these.

No, I don't see one of these things going bad suggesting the other will follow soon. But I do like to replace the control arms in pairs because they are so cheap and easy to do, especially while you are in there for brake work.
I would agree with all of this. I've now done this on two V70 cars (brakes, rotors, control arms + sway end links) and it is pretty straightforward, even if you do end up cursing a bit here and there. I am by no means a pro at DIY, but I did manage to fix brakes and suspension, even swapping rear shocks and springs, and getting a great ride out of these vehicles. (Now if only I can manage to save my ECU before it leaves me stranded, I'll be happy. Ha!)

The CV boot is OK to do one at a time. Just keep an eye on the other one from time to time.

Oh, and the oil cooler lines aren't that difficult to do on your own if you watch the videos and take your time. Good luck!
These users thanked the author brunocerous for the post:
eslupin


2000 V70, base, MT, 'The Silver Bullet'
1998 V70, base, AT, 'Blue Steel'
1998 V70 T5, AT, project
1999 V70 XC AWD, AT (RIP)
1998 S70 T5, AT (RIP)

tardcart
Posts: 411
Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2019 4:17 pm
Year and Model: 96 850t. 93 940t
Location: Pittstown Nj
Has thanked: 3 times
Been thanked: 36 times
United States of America
tardcart

Re: '97 850 - repair or scrap?

Post by tardcart » Wed Jul 10, 2019 5:19 am

these cars are only affordable if you do your own work. but dont scrap it, sell it which is a way of passing it on. how ever if the state will give you 1500 then thats hard to pass up. (or replicate by selling)
These users thanked the author tardcart for the post:
eslupin



User avatar
E Showell
Posts: 2666
Joined: Thu Oct 16, 2008 4:00 pm
Year and Model: V70R '06 AWD Auto
Location: Long Valley, N.J.
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 28 times
United States of America
E Showell

Re: '97 850 - repair or scrap?

Post by E Showell » Wed Jul 10, 2019 5:38 am

In NJ, you could buy a pretty decent used car for $4,400. If you can't do at least some of this work yourself and (am I reading this correctly -- the State of Ca. will give you $1500 for the car?), then I'd take the $1500 and use that to help finance the purchase of a replacement vehicle.
These users thanked the author E Showell for the post:
eslupin


'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (soon to be for sale)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected)
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic

User avatar
abscate
MVS Moderator
Posts: 17645
Joined: Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:54 pm
Year and Model: 99T5 ,99S70,2005V70
Location: NYC, ALBANY NY
Has thanked: 190 times
Been thanked: 601 times
Trinidad & Tobago
abscate

Re: '97 850 - repair or scrap?

Post by abscate » Wed Jul 10, 2019 5:43 am

I would look at ;]labor rates where you are moving, and also is there a good Volvo independent shop nearby.

Most of the repairs listed go from good-worn-Dangerous condiition, if they are just worn , make the big trip and then deal it with it here.

If you are down to your last 3mm on brake pads, but brake action is good, don’t fix, highway travel is very easy on brakes!

If the car still handles tight and steers well, the strut and lower control arm can be deferred.

Do the glove test on the motor and if it inflates, rigup a catch can and hose to relieve crankcase pressure for the trip
These users thanked the author abscate for the post:
eslupin


Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 BMW

User avatar
callahanoffroad
Posts: 244
Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2014 5:25 pm
Year and Model: 1995 850
Location: St. Louis Missouri
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 21 times
United States of America
callahanoffroad

Re: '97 850 - repair or scrap?

Post by callahanoffroad » Wed Jul 10, 2019 8:25 am

So I'll replicate what some others have said. This is a Do It Yourself group here at MVS. I'll be honest if I had to pay someone to work on my Volvo I'd buy new cars it would be cheaper. hahaha. :lol: Volvo 850/S/V70's are also one of the easiest cars to work on that i've ever owned. Hardly ever anything rusted in place, logical engineering and everything can be removed easily with a breaker bar, impact gun, and hand tools.

To answer your second question, if it's needed on one side, both sides need it. If you need one sway bar endlink odds are you need both, etc. This is because these components tend to wear at the same rate. Its possible that a PO replaced the each side one at a time but highly unlikely.

Here's what everything would cost you to do yourself assuming you had the tools, space and time:

new rotors and pads on the front
Rotors: $72.08
Volvo Brake Disc - ATE 31262092 $36.04/Each
Pads: $35.07
Volvo Brake Pad Set - Bosch 30793799
Total: $107.15

replace right front spring seat
$487.20.
But this is for Two brand new pre-assembled quick-struts.
You have 200,000 miles if the spring seats are bad odds are everything needs to be done.
Volvo Quick Strut Assembly - Sachs SAC-033080 $243.60/Each

replace left front control arm
$91.18
Volvo Control Arm 2 Bolt Mount - Lemforder 8628495

I'd do the other one too.

$92.56
Volvo Control Arm 2 Bolt Mount - Lemforder 8628496

Total $183.74

replace sway bar link - left front
$33.40
Don't be stingy do them both.
Volvo Sway Bar Link Kit 2 Piece - Lemforder KIT-P80FSBLKT2P2

replace oil cooler hoses
There are TWO. Inlet and Outlet. Here's the kit.
$259.37
Volvo Oil Cooler Hose Replacement Kit - Genuine Volvo OILCOOLERHOSEKIT


PCV/engine breather box replacement [I've read the threads on DIYing this but am not equipped for it]
$148.38
Volvo PCV Breather System Kit - 850T200
This job is super easy. Its just pulling the intake manifold out, unbolting some tubes and some cleaning. Takes time but is super simple.

cv joint boot (left) (with the "kit", 98$, plus $300 labor)
axle oil seal right

On these two I would honestly just buy new axles. Then It's just plug and play. If you can't swing the extra $$$ pay the shop to rebuild them. Rebuilding isn't hard just very messy.

Total Cost Minus Axles: $1219.24

Now you can see why its in your best interest to do your own work.

Here's how I would do this:

All suspension, and brakes at the same time
This is because you're going to be taking everything apart to get to the front struts anyways may as well finish the job right. Might want to do the front hubs at the same time too.

PCV/Breather box and Oil Cooler lines at the same time.
Everything is in the front of the car together and will be easy to do as a lot.

The good news is that if you do all of these there really isn't much else that can go wrong for about 100k miles. Aside from timing belt and water pump, steering box, rear shocks and brakes.

Where are you moving to? If you're moving to the St. Louis area I'd be more than happy to help you on your car. :D
These users thanked the author callahanoffroad for the post (total 2):
greg850reslupin


Author, Chef, and Shade Tree Mechanic

1995 Volvo 850, Non-Turbo, VVIS, LH FI, Green, 215,000 miles. Herman. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... =1&t=84393

1996 Volvo 850, died at 280,000

Founder of: CookingForChemo.Org

User avatar
greg850r
Posts: 169
Joined: Thu May 03, 2012 5:06 pm
Year and Model: a long list
Location: Mo
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 3 times
United States of America
greg850r

Re: '97 850 - repair or scrap?

Post by greg850r » Wed Jul 10, 2019 9:47 am

I concur with everything Callahan said with one exception. I would only buy a pair of spring seats and not the quick struts if mine still had good damping action.

With regard to the oil cooler lines; are you going through oil? I've seen them covered with oil and road grime when they get old but not really leaking, just seeping. This is a pressure leak and unless you're already driving around with quarts of oil on the passenger seat, that job is a messy PITA you could defer until you have time. Waste a can of engine cleaner on the passenger side and front of the motor for 2 bucks and spend 2 more at the car wash. Once the area is clean you can see what you've really got. I'm not saying the shop is wrong that you need the lines replaced, just that you may have needed them for the last hundred thousand miles.

I'm in eastern Mo also and would help too if you get this way. I have a shop with a lift and 3 of us could be done with that list in a day and leave you in a better position to do your own work going forward.
These users thanked the author greg850r for the post (total 2):
callahanoffroadeslupin


05 Cross Country wagon
99 C70 Convertible
96 850R wagon
96 850T wagon
96 850 GLT 5spd N/A sedan
97 850R 5spd sedan
66 GTO 421SD 4spd
67 GTO 455 T400
02 Powerstroke 4x4
85 Yota 4x4
24' 454 Challenger
07 Softail Custom
02 Sportster Custom
Parts cars not included

User avatar
erikv11
Posts: 9035
Joined: Sat Jul 25, 2009 2:03 pm
Year and Model: 850, S/V70, 06 S60R
Location: Iowa
Has thanked: 54 times
Been thanked: 178 times
United States of America
erikv11

Re: '97 850 - repair or scrap?

Post by erikv11 » Wed Jul 10, 2019 11:22 am

I'd also put the oil cooler lines way down the list unless they are leaking badly. Really nasty job.


'95 854 T5-R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'96 855 NA, 140k
'98 S70 NA, 210k (living out west)
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 280k
'06 S60 R, 160k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k

Post Reply