What to replace when doing serpentine service 2008 V70

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 23 Aug 2019, 07:28

I am going to do a serpentine belt service on my 2008 V70 3.2. I am going to be replacing the A/C compressor- the clutch on the present one is toast, so I thought diving into this it would be good to replace the belt as its my wife's daily driver and with the winter approaching thought it would be good preventative maintenance. I am planning to replace the tensioner and idler pulleys, but I am curious how often the tensioners failed? I am thinking the belt and the pulleys and reusing the tensioner, but this job is such a PITA and I don't want to have to do this again...

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 23 Aug 2019, 07:29

And also does the tensioner and idler use the same type of pulley?

Post by **abscate** » 23 Aug 2019, 09:24

Try putting your VIN into Volvo Web store and pulling up the part numbers to settle that debate.Sorry I don't know the 2008s well enough

Post by **xHeart** » 23 Aug 2019, 10:12

volvooh wrote: ↑23 Aug 2019, 07:28 I am going to do a serpentine belt service on my 2008 V70 3.2. I am going to be replacing the A/C compressor- the clutch on the present one is toast, so I thought diving into this it would be good to replace the belt as its my wife's daily driver and with the winter approaching thought it would be good preventative maintenance. I am planning to replace the tensioner and idler pulleys, but I am curious how often the tensioners failed? I am thinking the belt and the pulleys and reusing the tensioner, but this job is such a PITA and I don't want to have to do this again...

This may help a little: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=90085

Post by **jimmy57** » 23 Aug 2019, 12:01

The fixed wheel and the wheel on tensioner arm are the same and are common sizes used on lots of vehicles including many Fords (have no idea how that ever happened...). The tensioner is released by using a 19mm open end wrench and putting it on the crescent lug and pushing down. Now the tensioner can be locked in release position using an allen wrench or drill bit that slides into the hole facing to back of car. I think the size is 3 mm but I just grabbed a few drill bits and inserted the one that fit with least play. The power steering pump has to be removed and that is a few bolts and then remove the two 25 mm Torx screws that go through pump pulley and into the water pump drive coupler. Then the pump will lift a little and move to the side for belt to be threaded out. The compressor has to be removed and then the tensioner to get belt out. The tensioner has one bolt facing toward engine/to the RH side of car that holds tensioner assy. Take a picture o things. The braces they use are odd and you save a few attempts at starting bolts only to find out that isn't the way it goes.

Post by **oragex** » 23 Aug 2019, 14:49

I would also do the thermostat while there, and replace half of the transmission fluid - I think there is a v good video on Youtube with this