Anal retentive

[Mr. Detail]

OK, sorry for going over this again but since I have never tried doing my brakes I am nervous.
Please tell me if these steps sound correct:

1) After the wheel is removed, loosen the two square ended screws (top/bottom) on the caliper.
2) Pry off the wire clip from the caliper.
3) Wiggle the old pads out from within the caliper.
4) Depress the caliper piston back in with a "C" clamp or other device.
5) Grease the back side of both new pads with brake grease.
6) Insert the new pads into the caliper.
7) Re-install a new clip.
Slide caliper back over the rotor and fasten/tighten the two screws.
9) That's it!

**Regarding bullet #7, does that clip just get pressed back into place or do I have to spread it a little with a screwdriver?

Thank you gentlemen.

[Mr. Detail]

Sorry, I forgot to say that this is on a 2002 V70 (Base). P2

[Rattnalle]

I'm unsure what you mean with square ended screws. It's the two insex head slide pins you want to loosen.

[Katten]

Be sure to carefully and slowly press in the caliper piston. Prefferably with lid removed from brake fluid reservoar. Nice to have someone monitor the level of fluid so it does not spill out.

Also i clean all the surfaces from crap and make sure all contact points on the pads and the caliper braket is lubricated, not too much! Caliper braket is the part that is left over the disk after caliper is removed. Where the pads rest basically .

[June]

It's my understanding it is best to have the bleeder open when pressing the caliper piston in. At least on ABS equipped cars. June

[GlennG2759]

I've heard about having that bleeder screw open when compressing caliper piston. Does it really have anything to do with the ABS or does it just get old fluid that's been in the caliper area and by opening aren't you possibly letting air into the system, just making bleeding the system when brake job complete mandatory. I don't know. I've always just unscrewed reservoir cap.

[abscate]

If you haven’t replaced the fluid in the last two years, remove the bleeder, throw it away , and put a new Volvo one on both calipers.

Your text list is incomplete, I will try to find a thread with pictures. A lot of little things are unclear or left out

If it’s your first brake job, you need a companion to walk you through it. Don’t walk alone, be Liverpool

[June]

I've heard about having that bleeder screw open when compressing caliper piston. Does it really have anything to do with the ABS or does it just get old fluid that's been in the caliper area and by opening aren't you possibly letting air into the system, just making bleeding the system when brake job complete mandatory. I don't know. I've always just unscrewed reservoir cap.

My understanding is pushing fluid backward through the ABS valve block can damage it. Also dislodge and push sediment contaminated fluid through the system causing potential damage. Volvo has a 2 year brake fluid change interval that few on here likely perform. With the bleeder open the contaminated fluid exits the system through the bleeder rather than being pushed backwards. June

[Mr. Detail]

It looks like I already have the wrong key to remove the two pins on the back. A video I juts saw speaks to a "7mm HEX" key and the one I bought is a 7mm square one. Ugggh.

[Mr. Detail]

Prior to old pads being removed you often will have to pry the caliper open a bit. The wear edge on rotor often binds things up and makes this step aggravating if this isn't done. Once pads are removed the pins the calipers slide on, in this case the 7mm hex long bolts, need to be lubed with silicone grease or brake hardware grease. The parts stores sell it in little packets and one will do both calipers as it is not used in excess. Last, once done THE NEXT THING is to push brake pedal a few times to get pedal restored or that first motion under power may end with a crash when you do not have time to push the pads back against rotors via a few pedal strokes before you impact something.