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2007 S80 3.2 ride getting "floaty"-- front suspension redo time?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on the third generation Volvo V70 wagon and XC70 crossover, and second generation S80. Are you an owner? Prospective owner? Get in here and join us! Start a new topic or comment on an existing thread.

2008-2016 V70
2008-2016 XC70
2007-2016 S80

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E Showell
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E Showell

2007 S80 3.2 ride getting "floaty"-- front suspension redo time?

Post by E Showell » Tue Oct 01, 2019 6:19 am

The S80 is starting to ride like your father's Buick. Time to renew front suspension? If so, what should I replace and what, if anything should I keep? I generally don't replace springs absent obvious problems.

All prior suspension experience is with P80 and P2 platforms.

Critical omitted detail -- mileage is @140K.


'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (actively for sale)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic

Steve H
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Steve H

Re: 2007 S80 3.2 ride getting "floaty"-- front suspension redo time?

Post by Steve H » Thu Oct 03, 2019 11:14 am

I personally would replace every component except the spring in the strut assembly. Buy the pinch bolt in the steering knuckle that holds the strut because I had violently break when setting torque. A lot of debate has been had if you can retract the control arms down enough to get the strut out of the steering knuckle. You might but you also might not have any bushings left in your control arms after that extreme flex. I did mine as follows from memory.

1. Removed brake caliper and rotor
2. Removed Axle bolt.
3. Removed tie rod to steering knuckle connection.
4. Remove all plastic at windshield wipers to get to upper strut bolts. Great time to flush your brake fluid since you can actually get to your master cylinder.
5. Remove ball joint bolt.
6 Rig up you a rope to hold your axle suspended so you do not hyper extend the inner joint.
7 Lower your control arm to clear ball joint and move steering knuckle to the side. I always cover my ball joint boot with a small stack of red cotton shop rags that I use and rewash to project the boot from the sharp edges of the steering knuckel.
8. Pull the steering knuckle away from axle careful not to hyper extend the inner joint. Hang axle from rope you rigged up.
9. remove bolts from upper strut mount while supporting strut.
10. Remove strut assembly.

I made the mistake of trying the quick struts type of complete unit and they just do not have enough spring and rebound dampening for the heavy weight of my 2008 XC70. I will be redoing mine at some point with the original springs using FCPeuro parts for Sachs struts, corteco mounts and I will replace spring seats and all. Steering knuckle bolt and axle bolt should also be replaced. For now mine are OK. I also take this opportunity to clean up the ball joint boot and slather it down with dielectric silicone grease. This really increases the life of the boot. Also do the tie rood end boot. I hope this helps. See I can be more positive than my feelings about Volvo's air filter housing.



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