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Volvo 50 Battery issue

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials devoted to the second generation C70, S40 and V50 Volvos -- awkwardly model year 2004 ½ onwards -- plus where to go for advice and discussion on Volvo's sporty C30 Coupe powered by Volvo's ubiquitous inline 5-cylinder power plant.
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Volvo 50 Battery issue

Post by Michael666 » Sat Oct 05, 2019 7:30 am

Hi, so since a few months I am now the owner of a 2009 V50 2.4L Diesel. Great car and get's much better fuel economy than my old car. But as Karma strikes I, again, have a car with battery issues. I drive a lot, during the week 90km a day. So the battery always get's charged and that works fine. On mondays i'm worried it won't start. There is a close to 1A draw and this is where i could use some help. The car has 2 negative leads, one has basically no draw (the one that goes deep into the engine bay), the other lead (goes to the ground point on the shockmount) is drawing close to 1A.
Which systems are powered by that ground point?
I also found out that the battery installed is a 70Ah 600A Battery, although the manual calls for the 5cylinder Diesels to have a 80Ah 700A Battery. Could that be the issues??
Any help is greatly appreciated
Thank you in advance

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Re: Volvo 50 Battery issue

Post by RickHaleParker » Sun Oct 06, 2019 8:49 pm

Michael666 wrote:
Sat Oct 05, 2019 7:30 am
There is a close to 1A draw and this is where i could use some help.
Pull fuses as you monitor the current. Isolate the circuit that is drawing the current.
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Re: Volvo 50 Battery issue

Post by Cees Klumper » Thu Oct 10, 2019 5:40 am

When you measure the ("parasitic") drain, make sure to wait a while so that all systems go 'dormant' as they normally do after maybe 15-20 seconds, or you will have a false reading.

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Re: Volvo 50 Battery issue

Post by jimmy57 » Thu Oct 10, 2019 7:44 am

On that car and best practice on any networked car is to open all doors and hatches and then latch the latches and for the engine bay, you have to latch the latches on body. Then lock the doors. This gives access and the systems will go to full hibernate quicker. You will need to wait 5 minutes with all that done. If you have any doors open then the wait should be 10 minutes. The modules go to hibernate after the longest period if doors are open, and less time if doors closed and vehicle not locked, shortest is locked as the alarm is activated and they shut things down sooner to get car in alarm protected condition sooner. Locking car also indicates the car is going to be left for a time. Closing doors not locked could be unloading groceries and you could come back to car in 2-3 minutes. Once you wait until it is hibernated the current draw target is .030 A (30 miiliAmps). You can't let the ground cable get disconnected when testing as that wakes systems up when power is interrupted for an instant and reconnected. Alarm likely will sound also. I use a heavy gauge alligator clip lead but one led of a jumper cable set works too. Put vise grips on ground post of battery but not so tight as to distort post. CLip lead to cble an the vise grips. When you are ready to test you connect ammeter leads to cable and vise grips and then disconnect one end of the lead used to connect ground cable to vise grips. If you use an uinductive clamp ammeter probe then non of these last steps are needed.

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