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DIY: 2004 V70 2.5T Axle and Seal (110K miles) Volvo 6843112; Corteco 19033885B R side: Volvo 9495018; Corteco 19034

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This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » 2004 V70 2.5T Volvo Axle and Seals DIY Fix
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cn90
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Volvo Repair Database DIY: 2004 V70 2.5T Axle and Seal (110K miles) Volvo 6843112; Corteco 19033885B R side: Volvo 9495018; Corteco 19034

Post by cn90 »

DIY: 2004 V70 2.5T Volvo Axle and Seals (110K miles)

- This is preventive replacement of CV boots. If you are sending this car far away to your kids in college, then it is a good idea to do this ahead than paying a shop later.

- At 110K, Inner CV boot shows minor cracks but still OK.

- New boots (Inner and Outer) are available at FCPEuro. I used GKN brand, which is OEM.

- Axle Seals: Corteco, search FCPEuro for detail (About $8-$10/each):
---> L side: Volvo 6843112; Corteco 19033885B
---> R side: Volvo 9495018; Corteco 19034067B

- This is advanced level DIY, assuming you already know how to remove the tire, support the car on jack stands properly. I used 2 jack stands on each side (safety first).

- Info on how to support car, removing axle etc. is in forum.

- This DIY will serve as supplement to other DIYs:

1. P80 1998 V70 CV Boot thread (main difference between P80 and P2 cars is the axle bolt):
viewtopic.php?t=29716

2. CV Boot discussion:
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=89775

3. VERY IMPORTANT trick posted by jimmy57:
viewtopic.php?t=62152


PROCEDURE AND MISTAKES LEARNED:

1. You can see I struggle to separate the knuckle from the control arm.
Next time I will loosen the bolts holding the control arm (on the subframe side), as this will allow the control arm to drop down.

2004-V70-Axle-01.jpg
2004-V70-Axle-01.jpg (257.91 KiB) Viewed 2285 times
2004-V70-Axle-02.jpg
2004-V70-Axle-02.jpg (252.08 KiB) Viewed 2284 times

2. Minor cracks at INNER CV Boot. NOTE the trick posted by jimmy57 “rotate, tug and pull”.
This trick allows the C-clip open end to point down, allowing the axle to come out.
I also used a cold chisel (wrapped both sides of cold chisel with some cardboard paper) and gently tap the area between Inner CV Joint and Trans Housing, it came right out using jimmy57’s trick.
On installation, I used a bit of grease to prevent rust, which in some cases makes removal very difficult.

2004-V70-Axle-03.jpg
2004-V70-Axle-03.jpg (251 KiB) Viewed 2284 times
2004-V70-Axle-04.jpg
2004-V70-Axle-04.jpg (478.63 KiB) Viewed 2284 times

3. The struggle using wood b/c I did not loosen the control arm!

2004-V70-Axle-05.jpg
2004-V70-Axle-05.jpg (318.81 KiB) Viewed 2284 times

5. NOTE the anatomy of a typical seal. Take photos and use your fingernail to feel the EXACT position of the factory seal location w.r.t. to the bore and install EXACTLY like that. In my 1998 S70, I learned it the hard way, I installed the Corteco seal a bit too far in (2 mm further in than factory): it leaked ATF!

- So, for the 2004 V70 2.5T, I forgot which side (R vs L) but the axle seal is about 5 mm from the edge on one side and 13 mm from the edge on the other side. Make note of this. Use a ruler to measure.

- Installation tips: oil the outer lip (where it meets the bore), and use a piece of wood to install it flush with the bore. Now, in order to seat it let’s say 5 mm further, you need to use the Volvo tool but this tool is expensive. I used a PVC coupler (1.5 inch PVC coupler for home plumbing; info in forum), about $2 at Home depot hardware. GENTLY tap the PCV coupler ALL AROUND the edge of the seal. Space is limited and a mistake means new seal! So go VERY SLOW all around, one tap at a time and use fingernail to feel the depth.

- Note the O-ring inside the cup (the cup accepts the axle splines), oil/grease it before inserting the axle.

2004-V70-Axle-06.jpg
2004-V70-Axle-06.jpg (417.85 KiB) Viewed 2284 times


6. The classic sheet metal screw trick to remove old seal. NOTE that you must drill a hole dead center for the screw.
Do NOT damage either the axle or bore sides!

2004-V70-Axle-07.jpg
2004-V70-Axle-07.jpg (242.49 KiB) Viewed 2284 times

7. The CV Removal Tool ($17 on ebay) is a must. It makes the job so easy:

2004-V70-Axle-08.jpg
2004-V70-Axle-08.jpg (238.85 KiB) Viewed 2285 times
2004-V70-Axle-09.jpg
2004-V70-Axle-09.jpg (242.17 KiB) Viewed 2285 times
2004-V70-Axle-10.jpg
2004-V70-Axle-10.jpg (283.92 KiB) Viewed 2285 times

8. The OUTER Oetiker Clamp is very stiff, designed for the PLASTIC type OUTER CV Boot.

Unless you are very strong, hand squeeze is not enough.
- They sell a special tool to squeeze it at a specific torque.
- I used the $10 cutter (Husky brand at Home Depot hardware but filed the edges blunt for this job) + hammer to hit the handle for extra squeeze. Or you can use a C-Clamp to squeeze the handle. Once done, you should not be able to rotate the Oetiker clamp (or you can rotate with some stiff resistance): in other words, the Oetiker clamp should not rotate freely.

2004-V70-Axle-11.jpg
2004-V70-Axle-11.jpg (75.01 KiB) Viewed 2284 times
2004-V70-Axle-12.jpg
2004-V70-Axle-12.jpg (280.75 KiB) Viewed 2284 times

9. In order to replace the INNER Boot without filing down the dimples (on the INNER Cup itself), I had to remove the round rubber thingy (designed to dampen vibration from the axle, at least in theory!). This was removed using an Angle Grinder: basically a piece of rubber vulcanized to steel, it took 30 minutes to remove this useless thingy. Car runs fine without any vibration whatsoever. In fact, replacement axle now comes without this rubber thingy.

2004-V70-Axle-13.jpg
2004-V70-Axle-13.jpg (189.74 KiB) Viewed 2284 times
That is all boys/girls, if you have done the Axle and Seal in the older P80 cars (1994-1997 850 or 1998-2000 S70, V70), there is subtle difference but you can do this.

10. The axle bolt, search forum for proper torque. According to abscate, it is

Drive Shaft in Front Wheel Hub (M10)
Step 1 35 Nm
Step 2 Angle Tighten 90°


PS: Bonus: the "Axle Ping Noise", IMHO is created by dry grease in CV Joint, is gone after new grease and CV boots.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

I am posting this Oetiker Pliers Tool just for fun.
It costs a lot of money, but the purist may like it bc one can squeeze the Oetiker clamp to the correct torque (using a torque wrench).

For now, I am sticking to my $10 Pliers from Home Depot (mentioned above).

Here is the fancy tool...

---
Oetiker-Tool.jpg
Oetiker-Tool.jpg (75.04 KiB) Viewed 2262 times
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

Rvolvos
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Year and Model: 2006 xc70
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Post by Rvolvos »

cn90 wrote: 27 Oct 2019, 11:24 DIY: 2004 V70 2.5T Volvo Axle and Seals (110K miles)

- This is preventive replacement of CV boots. If you are sending this car far away to your kids in college, then it is a good idea to do this ahead than paying a shop later.

- At 110K, Inner CV boot shows minor cracks but still OK.

- New boots (Inner and Outer) are available at FCPEuro. I used GKN brand, which is OEM.

- Axle Seals: Corteco, search FCPEuro for detail (About $8-$10/each):
---> L side: Volvo 6843112; Corteco 19033885B
---> R side: Volvo 9495018; Corteco 19034067B

- This is advanced level DIY, assuming you already know how to remove the tire, support the car on jack stands properly. I used 2 jack stands on each side (safety first).

- Info on how to support car, removing axle etc. is in forum.

- This DIY will serve as supplement to other DIYs:

1. P80 1998 V70 CV Boot thread (main difference between P80 and P2 cars is the axle bolt):
viewtopic.php?t=29716

2. CV Boot discussion:
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=89775

3. VERY IMPORTANT trick posted by jimmy57:
viewtopic.php?t=62152


PROCEDURE AND MISTAKES LEARNED:

1. You can see I struggle to separate the knuckle from the control arm.
Next time I will loosen the bolts holding the control arm (on the subframe side), as this will allow the control arm to drop down.


2004-V70-Axle-01.jpg


2004-V70-Axle-02.jpg


2. Minor cracks at INNER CV Boot. NOTE the trick posted by jimmy57 “rotate, tug and pull”.
This trick allows the C-clip open end to point down, allowing the axle to come out.
I also used a cold chisel (wrapped both sides of cold chisel with some cardboard paper) and gently tap the area between Inner CV Joint and Trans Housing, it came right out using jimmy57’s trick.
On installation, I used a bit of grease to prevent rust, which in some cases makes removal very difficult.


2004-V70-Axle-03.jpg


2004-V70-Axle-04.jpg


3. The struggle using wood b/c I did not loosen the control arm!


2004-V70-Axle-05.jpg


5. NOTE the anatomy of a typical seal. Take photos and use your fingernail to feel the EXACT position of the factory seal location w.r.t. to the bore and install EXACTLY like that. In my 1998 S70, I learned it the hard way, I installed the Corteco seal a bit too far in (2 mm further in than factory): it leaked ATF!

- So, for the 2004 V70 2.5T, I forgot which side (R vs L) but the axle seal is about 5 mm from the edge on one side and 13 mm from the edge on the other side. Make note of this. Use a ruler to measure.

- Installation tips: oil the outer lip (where it meets the bore), and use a piece of wood to install it flush with the bore. Now, in order to seat it let’s say 5 mm further, you need to use the Volvo tool but this tool is expensive. I used a PVC coupler (1.5 inch PVC coupler for home plumbing; info in forum), about $2 at Home depot hardware. GENTLY tap the PCV coupler ALL AROUND the edge of the seal. Space is limited and a mistake means new seal! So go VERY SLOW all around, one tap at a time and use fingernail to feel the depth.

- Note the O-ring inside the cup (the cup accepts the axle splines), oil/grease it before inserting the axle.


2004-V70-Axle-06.jpg



6. The classic sheet metal screw trick to remove old seal. NOTE that you must drill a hole dead center for the screw.
Do NOT damage either the axle or bore sides!


2004-V70-Axle-07.jpg


7. The CV Removal Tool ($17 on ebay) is a must. It makes the job so easy:


2004-V70-Axle-08.jpg


2004-V70-Axle-09.jpg


2004-V70-Axle-10.jpg


8. The OUTER Oetiker Clamp is very stiff, designed for the PLASTIC type OUTER CV Boot.

Unless you are very strong, hand squeeze is not enough.
- They sell a special tool to squeeze it at a specific torque.
- I used the $10 cutter (Husky brand at Home Depot hardware but filed the edges blunt for this job) + hammer to hit the handle for extra squeeze. Or you can use a C-Clamp to squeeze the handle. Once done, you should not be able to rotate the Oetiker clamp (or you can rotate with some stiff resistance): in other words, the Oetiker clamp should not rotate freely.


2004-V70-Axle-11.jpg


2004-V70-Axle-12.jpg


9. In order to replace the INNER Boot without filing down the dimples (on the INNER Cup itself), I had to remove the round rubber thingy (designed to dampen vibration from the axle, at least in theory!). This was removed using an Angle Grinder: basically a piece of rubber vulcanized to steel, it took 30 minutes to remove this useless thingy. Car runs fine without any vibration whatsoever. In fact, replacement axle now comes without this rubber thingy.


2004-V70-Axle-13.jpg

That is all boys/girls, if you have done the Axle and Seal in the older P80 cars (1994-1997 850 or 1998-2000 S70, V70), there is subtle difference but you can do this.

10. The axle bolt, search forum for proper torque. According to abscate, it is

Drive Shaft in Front Wheel Hub (M10)
Step 1 35 Nm
Step 2 Angle Tighten 90°


PS: Bonus: the "Axle Ping Noise", IMHO is created by dry grease in CV Joint, is gone after new grease and CV boots.
Can anyone confirm if the outer joint has an circlip like the 850 drive shaft? I did see the other post and you can see the cutout for this circlip.This one has not a notch.
I am in the middle of this job and it takes a lot of force. Do not want to brake the drive shaft bolt.
2006 V70 152k with ribbed boots.
Thanks
Attachments
4F8A9DCE-19ED-45A0-B0DD-FD7FC8CE377B.jpeg
1EEAB9C8-B17E-43F8-8544-CCC0845B3F85.jpeg
2006 XC70 2.5T 195k
2006 V70 2.5T 184k rip?
2011 C30 T5 M66 76k
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99ksold

Rvolvos
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Year and Model: 2006 xc70
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Post by Rvolvos »

I stopped using the tool , I was using a breaker bar and ratchet with a long handle and couldn’t pull the outer cv joint off. I filed down the notches of the inner joint and separated the cv axle this way. I was able to remove the inner tripod bearing assembly after removing the cir-clip. That took also a large hammer and chisel.
The GKN inner boot from FCPEURO came with clamps to large of a diameter. I could not clamp them enough to stop rotating. The clamps themselves are different then the clamps from the outer boot. They do not look genuine Oetiker clamps. I had to stop and order genuine Volvo boots for the inner joint.
FCPeuro did check there inventory after sending pictures but all the stock is the same.
First 2 pictures are from the outer boot
Attachments
58080B3B-C3C2-402F-8FD1-E3D6BCC8B3E7.jpeg
58080B3B-C3C2-402F-8FD1-E3D6BCC8B3E7.jpeg (81.95 KiB) Viewed 2203 times
C18CA485-23AB-4101-8D46-CF6749574F60.jpeg
C18CA485-23AB-4101-8D46-CF6749574F60.jpeg (84.01 KiB) Viewed 2203 times
8A38364B-AEC2-4A40-84FC-11CA5964E095.jpeg
8A38364B-AEC2-4A40-84FC-11CA5964E095.jpeg (95.53 KiB) Viewed 2203 times
B6D1BB77-3C93-4D35-A136-C7CD1201CF1F.jpeg
B6D1BB77-3C93-4D35-A136-C7CD1201CF1F.jpeg (83.39 KiB) Viewed 2203 times
6F2B3A4B-BB02-48F4-90EF-88B28099C391.jpeg
6F2B3A4B-BB02-48F4-90EF-88B28099C391.jpeg (85.71 KiB) Viewed 2203 times
2006 XC70 2.5T 195k
2006 V70 2.5T 184k rip?
2011 C30 T5 M66 76k
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99ksold

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

I replaced the axle seals as above last summer 2019...

At the time, I thought I had RMS leak, a job I dreaded...so I cleaned and wiped the RMS area dry and watch.

One year and 7K miles later, the RMS area is bone-dry.

It just occurred to me that a R axle seal leak can mimic a RMS leak.
I took a random photo from the web just to show everyone that the R axle seal sits above and aft of the RMS area...

Axle-Leak.jpg
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

Rvolvos
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Post by Rvolvos »

In can confirm, the outer joint has an internal c clip as shown by CN90 above. I tried this again on my other car. But in addition to pulling with the tool I also hit the internal housing with a punch and after a couple of hits it came loose.
Attachments
CB129D83-6394-4D70-9DDD-511714426312.jpeg
2006 XC70 2.5T 195k
2006 V70 2.5T 184k rip?
2011 C30 T5 M66 76k
2011 C30 T5 AW55-50SN 99ksold

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Post by XC70Rider »

I rebuilt my front axles in the summer of 2019 around the same time CN90 did. The GKN boots fit my '07 P2 fine. Being a crossfit lifter I was able to crimp on the those tough clamps for the outer boots with no problem. After removing that C-clip I knocked off the CV joints using a brass drift and mini sledge with a short handle. I didn't use the grease that came with the GKN kits. As I did with the new CV joints I threw on my driveshaft I used Redline synthetic CV-2 grease. A local Indie shop let me borrow their special tool for pressing off that balancer on my commercial shop press.

The axles are clean and dry 22k miles after rebuilding them.

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Post by matthew1 »

I added this to the Volvo Repair Database. Long overdue. It's very good.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a kickback.

1997 850 T5, MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace [gone]
2004 V70 R [gone]

Image

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Update on 2007 S60 2.5T with 115K miles replacing axles, seal and ball joint. This is important addemdum:
by removing the bolts holding the struts, the job is 1000x easier!

- If you watch the youtube video by A1Auto.com for axle replacement, the lady mechanic used a pry bar to
pry the control arm downward and this is very dangerous. Even so, she had a tough time installing the ball joint.

- So, for ball joint: I loosen the ball joint bolts and nuts first, and since I am working on the axle boot, I also
loosened the 13-mm axle bolt, then remove the bolts holding the struts, this will make the job 1000x easier!
Search forum for tricks on strut bolts, but basically 18-mm wrench to counter-hold, then 21-mm socket
and breaker bar
; search forum for proper torque. You may need heat to melt the factory Loctite (propane
torch for 30-60 sec, search forum the photo I posted).

- Once the strut is loose, the axle comes out nicely. During installation, protect the OUTER boot with cardboard
and tape.

- Installation note: for the Struts bolts, I use the LOWER bolt as a pivot, after gently tightening the strut nuts snugly, push the knuckle so the TOP goes inward. Now tighten the 21-mm nuts. This maneuver usually gives me the correct camber...

- For the driver's side (left side) axle seal, the space is tight. To remove the seal, you may use a small screwdriver
and point it toward the seal's outer edge. Do NOT damage the shaft side. Or use the sheet-metal screw trick.

- During installation, the Corteco seal is a nice tight fit, no need for Permatex RTV here. Space is tight, and it
is hard to drive the seal in, so I used the PVC Plumbing Adapter + a piece of wood as shown. Go very very very
slow and tap it slowly and evenly bc you don't want to drive it in too far, you will have a leak if the seal is in too far.
Use a mirror to check for evenness. BEST: is to check the exact factory seal position prior to removal.
Basically, the factory seal sits about 0.5 mm inward of the chamfered edge of the transmission.

That is all, hope this helps you guys...

---
Volvo-S60-Axle-Seal-01.jpg
Volvo-S60-Axle-Seal-01.jpg (161.72 KiB) Viewed 434 times
Volvo-S60-Axle-Seal-02.jpg
Volvo-S60-Axle-Seal-02.jpg (250.12 KiB) Viewed 434 times
Last edited by cn90 on 20 Jun 2022, 13:10, edited 2 times in total.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Rvolvos wrote: 05 Feb 2021, 21:40 In can confirm, the outer joint has an internal c clip as shown by CN90 above. I tried this again on my other car. But in addition to pulling with the tool I also hit the internal housing with a punch and after a couple of hits it came loose.
I can confirm that this is a VERY IMPORTANT trick...
Also, during re-installation of the OUTER CV Joint: tap it in until it hits the C-clip, then use a small screwdriver to wedge the C-clip inside the groove, then tap further. Make sure you know when to stop, search forum for photo.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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