Front brake piston stuck

[dliscomb]

1998 V70 Base, >300K mi
Front passenger piston in the caliper opened enough to get the caliper off, but now it won't retract enough for the new rotor & pads.
I opened the brake fluid reservoir to relieve pressure.
I bought a 6" C clamp; no movement.

Does the piston get stuck? In this case, I was thinking I need new calipers.

Any advice will be much appreciated.

Kind regards,
Drew

[MoVolvos]

1998 V70 Base, >300K mi
Front passenger piston in the caliper opened enough to get the caliper off, but now it won't retract enough for the new rotor & pads.
I opened the brake fluid reservoir to relieve pressure.
I bought a 6" C clamp; no movement.

Does the piston get stuck? In this case, I was thinking I need new calipers.

Any advice will be much appreciated.

Kind regards,
Drew

-
EDIT: Replace both if you have to replace the bad one. At 300K you got your mileage out of those.
-
Install the good side and gently step on the brake pedal so the stuck piston will come forward. Clamp it back and repeat to see if it will go further in. Could be rusted inside.
-

[erikv11]

If you get new calipers, grab the caliper slide pins from your factory ones. The pins on the rebuilds are usually pot metal junk.

Yes they will take the caliper as a core without slide pins. Because they're going to put in junk pins at the reman shop ...

[abscate]

Give me a ping on email if you need a hand, Drew

In Bethlehem south of city by 6 minutes , although you caught me in CA this weekend.

Usually if the piston won’t go back in its corroded inside. Keeping brake fluid fresh, under two years old is important, as well as integrity of the rubber dust boot around the piston.

Don’t be afraid to take the whole bleeder out and check for clogging though.

Kudos to Erik for remembering the caliper slide pin issue, that’s important, too.

[dliscomb]

Holy mackerel, thanks to everyone for the feedback!

While I change motor oil regularly, and swap air filters, I've not been good about brake fluid changes. I am just now, later in life, learning what really needs to be maintained, vs. That What The Mechanic Said to Do. BKM, that video was excellent, really showed me how the thing works.

While the piston boot on the caliper in question looks fine, it sounds like I have a rusty cylinder housing. I can get this *one* caliper for about fifty bucks (remanufactured), but I can't find another to match it. New calipers will be pushing $200, ea.

Also, on the subject of brake line refill, which method do you guys think works better?
* vacuum, at the bleeder valve
* pressure, at the reservoir

Lastly, while I see that the flush/bleed procedure empties the *lines*, what about emptying and filling the caliper?

Kind regards,
Drew

[dliscomb]

ok, I found L & R reman'd calipers, with mounting bracket.
I prolly shoulda replaced the rears when I was back there :\

Drew

[dalel]

I just did calipers and rotors on my '98 V70 a few weeks back. I went with Volvo brand rotors from FCP and loaded Centric calipers even though I know they aren't the best but would be better than what I had (and I only drive about one thousand miles a year.) Got the right side from FCP and got the left side, loaded Centric, at rock auto for about $50.

If you decide to stay with the caliper you have, you can get some of the old fluid out of the caliper by pressing the piston in (even with the pad still on) with bleeder opened. You can close the bleeder and repeat to work some new fluid through the caliper.

[MoVolvos]

I am just now, later in life, learning what really needs to be maintained, vs. That What The Mechanic Said to Do.

While the piston boot on the caliper in question looks fine, it sounds like I have a rusty cylinder housing.

You are not the only one. I've have not kept a car more than 4 years until the last 6 years, although I've done brake work on every single one I've owned . However, brake bleeding was a must in the old days especially with front and rear drums. The cylinders never sealed well and I've have had to hone a few.

In the last year and a half I did the rear brakes on two vehicles due to rear passenger side calipers being stuck. They both push back with ease so I think I forgot to bleed them. The Odyssey is again metal to metal . Can't believe it. Well, I ran short of time and got lazy so didn't put in the brand new parking shoes (rears have shoes for parking brakes and disk for braking). Just as well, purchased two slotted and drilled rear rotors and some great pads on sale.

I also will attempt to bleed the brakes by suction for the first time. Seeing there maybe potential issues I will use the brake pedals to finish off the procedure.
-
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91778&p=523506#p523506

[wizechatmgr]

Holy mackerel, thanks to everyone for the feedback!

While I change motor oil regularly, and swap air filters, I've not been good about brake fluid changes. I am just now, later in life, learning what really needs to be maintained, vs. That What The Mechanic Said to Do. BKM, that video was excellent, really showed me how the thing works.

While the piston boot on the caliper in question looks fine, it sounds like I have a rusty cylinder housing. I can get this *one* caliper for about fifty bucks (remanufactured), but I can't find another to match it. New calipers will be pushing $200, ea.

Also, on the subject of brake line refill, which method do you guys think works better?
* vacuum, at the bleeder valve
* pressure, at the reservoir

Lastly, while I see that the flush/bleed procedure empties the *lines*, what about emptying and filling the caliper?

Kind regards,
Drew

Don't worry about the caliper, it will bleed off air when you're doing the bleeding.

If you need any help, I'm over in Schodack but often can be found in Albany and over by Abscate's. I also have a currently working vida setup...

[dliscomb]

Thanks again to everyone who replied. Front calipers replaced, bled, seems to be working well.

Kind regards,
Drew