Cv boot torn, replace boot or whole axle?

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Like the title says, I found out when I had some work done that the drivers cv boot was torn, and was asked if I heard a clunk when driving. I only ever hear it when I’m backing and turning out of my driveway onto my shitty road.


Will replacing the boot fix this or do I need to do the $400+ axle?

Thanks all

[erikv11]

I don't see a tear in that boot, is it the inner boot (the one shown) or the outer one (barely visible in your pic, near the wheel) that is torn? Actually maybe I see a tear in the outer one there. Much more common for the outers to split with age.

If the CV axle is not dried out or badly contaminated due to running it a long time on a torn boot, then replacing the boot is by far the best way to go. In that case be sure to use a GKN/Lobro branded boot, we can direct you to the correct part number and source just ask.

Most of the replacement axles are problematic, replacing the boot is a much better solution if you can do it.

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I don't see a tear in that boot, is it the inner boot (the one shown) or the outer one (barely visible in your pic, near the wheel) that is torn? Actually maybe I see a tear in the outer one there. Much more common for the outers to split with age.

If the CV axle is not dried out or badly contaminated due to running it a long time on a torn boot, then replacing the boot is by far the best way to go. In that case be sure to use a GKN/Lobro branded boot, we can direct you to the correct part number and source just ask.

Most of the replacement axles are problematic, replacing the boot is a much better solution if you can do it.

Thanks! Do you have any idea of what the clunk would be when I’m backing up? Seems to only happen then

[erikv11]

Clunk can be a lot of things.

Control arm bushing where it connects to the subframe is one common source of a clunk. It would clunk each time you change direction though, from stopped to backwards, then stop to frontwards, etc.

If the CV joint is bad, I would expect it to clunk as you put the transmission into gear not as the car moves. You can manually check the joint for looseness when the axle is out of the car.

And definitely check the engine mounts, especially upper and lower torque mounts and the firewall mount up near the washers. Those you can check visually.

[scot850]

Add checking the engine mount below the crank pulley on LHS of car. It can separate causing a clunk.

General advice is id your Volvo OE axle can be saved then do it. The are way better made than replacements. CV boots are as advised by erik GKN/Lobro only.

Neil.

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To clarify a couple points, they’re all the same size (205/55/16) at least

The clunk is only on the “potholes” in front of my driveway (only time I notice it really) and it just sounds like someone is knocking in muffled metal, like the floor (this isn’t where the sound is coming from just trying to describe it).


I’m going to hopefully get a video of it if I can.

The only concern I have with the motor mounts right now (preinspection) is upon startup the car shakes pretty decent as the motor fires up, and in rare occasions I’ll notice it feels like it idled a little rough at a stoplight and the car got a little vibe.

[erikv11]

For sure check the sway bar end links on the pothole clunk, doesn't sound like CV problems.

Most common cause of vibration is the mount Neil mentioned. Also that and/or shake at startup could be the top torque mount, really easy to open the hood and look, see if it is torn through viewtopic.php?t=48287.

Robert's video on the torque mount is probably useful too

[RickHaleParker]

The clunk is only on the “potholes” in front of my driveway (only time I notice it really) and it just sounds like someone is knocking in muffled metal, like the floor (this isn’t where the sound is coming from just trying to describe it).

Check the Strut mounts. Open hood, grab fender well, bounce car up and down as you keep your eyes on the Strut mount. If the rubber is ripped you will see it.

[erikv11]

RIck means checking the rubber/metal spring seats, not the strut mounts. Strut mounts are also sometimes called strut bearings.

It's a good idea, although a spring seat that broken will likely make squeaky, clunky noises all the time over small bumps.

A straightforward and diagnostic way to test the spring seat is to open the hood and put a 21 mm wrench (or big pliers) on the top nut of the strut tower. Can you rotate the nut (rubber of spring seat is broken or detached) or is there resistance (rubber intact)? If you can turn the nut using only moderate force the spring seat is shot.

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Here’s some pics I just took of what I could. I tried the bounce test and it just sounded like suspension. Either my fat ass couldn’t hit it enough to replicate or it’s not happening now