Removing rear delta link end link bushing, jack up one side of the car?

LOB · Post by **LOB** » 05 Dec 2019, 02:52

Do I need to lift the whole rear end of the car to ease the tension in the delta link or can I just lift one side? The reason I am asking is that my garage is very small and narrow and I need to do the front control arm at the same time. After doing one side, I would reverse in to the garage to do the other side of car. I have ordered the special tool so I am looking forward to a hustle free day in the garage!

Post by **abscate** » 05 Dec 2019, 04:04

I’m not sure on this one.

If you plan on the drill out method, that would take care of it, though.

Be careful with that tool, if the links are really frozen, it will break the tool.

LOB · Post by **LOB** » 05 Dec 2019, 06:10

I plan to use heat together with the tool. My second question after reading about this operation:
You need to undo the lower shock absorber mounting, right?

Post by **Chuck W** » 05 Dec 2019, 16:21

LOB wrote: 05 Dec 2019, 06:10 I plan to use heat together with the tool. My second question after reading about this operation:
You need to undo the lower shock absorber mounting, right?

Don't bother with the heat. It has never worked for me.

Attacking it with a drill across the top is usually enough to get it to break free. (I use a 5/16" bit)

Make absolutely sure that you grease/lube the threads on that tool.

I don't think you need to undo the shock mount, as you'll just be dropping the front of the link, but it wouldn't hurt. The last 2 times I did this, I was also replacing the inner bushings on the other side of the delta links at the same time, so I had to undo the shocks, etc.

For me, the biggest hassle was getting the parking brake cables loose from the front bracket. They get corroded and do not come out easy. They'll be in your way when trying to remove/install the links.
If you've read the procedure, you know about being mindful of the fuel and brake lines that are attached to things, to avoid stressing them.

For installing the new link, dish soap works excellent. Much better than grease.

LOB · Post by **LOB** » 06 Dec 2019, 01:15

Thanks Chuck W!
Using a drill I imagined there would be a risk of creating grades "inside" the delta link which makes mounting more difficult? What about jacking up the car. Do I have to lift the whole rear end (see my first post)?

Dish soap it is! (Since you only want to ease friction once, when mounting it, and not permanently as with grease I'm with you there!)

Post by **Chuck W** » 06 Dec 2019, 08:03

Installing wasn't really an issue.

The bushing has a tendency to drive in crooked regardless, so I would just get it going and stop when I saw it looking crooked. A couple taps on that side of the bushing flange would allow it to even up. Tighten up a bit more, a couple taps, and so on. Use careful taps, as the bushing shell is plastic/nylon and you can crack it.

Making sure you clean the inside of the link before installing also helps.

Just take your time and don't try and force it in all in one go.

Post by **E Showell** » 06 Dec 2019, 08:25

You can jack one side of the car and do one side at a time. Both rear wheels don't need to be off the ground to replace a delta link.

Post by **Chuck W** » 06 Dec 2019, 09:47

E Showell wrote: 06 Dec 2019, 08:25 You can jack one side of the car and do one side at a time. Both rear wheels don't need to be off the ground to replace a delta link.

I guess was never answered.

To avoid fighting the the rear sway bar, you might loosen/disconnect it on the PS side of the car, but other than that, one side at a time is fine.

Post by **E Showell** » 06 Dec 2019, 12:38

I've melted them out with a plumbing torch a couple times now (combined with some judicious drilling and use of the proper delta link removal tool). The secret is to heat the trailing arm around the delta link and not put the heat directly on the rubber -- unless you like flaming gobs of goo dropping on your driveway/garage floor. Heat, i.e., melting them out, is a quite effective way of loosening them for removal

Post by **abscate** » 06 Dec 2019, 12:41

Ive done two now

One just crumbled out like rubber flakes - totally shot delta linksl

The other was so bad I removed the entire rear suspension to get to all the pieces - but I had a lift for that one.

Ill be recovering and entire P80 rear suspension soon, off Clarke, the 1998 parts V70