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Oil pan gasket replacement

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Dmarks
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Oil pan gasket replacement

Post by Dmarks » Sat Dec 21, 2019 7:42 pm

Just bought myself an 02 s60 2.4t with 193000km, noticed theres a minor tapping/ticking and was told that the oil pan gaskets and o rings need to be replaced. Anyone direct me to the diy instructions? Cant seem to find them anywhere

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Re: Oil pan gasket replacement

Post by - Pete - » Sat Dec 21, 2019 9:59 pm

Bad O-rings wouldn’t be the first thing I’d look at for a tapping/ticking.

Might want to get a stethoscope to zero in on where it’s coming from to gauge importance/severity.

Have you been underneath it to look for leaks?

Are you sure it’s not a knock?

There isn’t a gasket that seals the oil pan to the block. Volvo uses an anaerobic sealant that is more pink in color than amoxicillin. There are several o-rings that can get old, brittle, cracked etc. FCP sells an oil-pan reseal kit.


Jimmy57 helped advise me when I ran into some issues a while back, here.

The numerous little pan bolts get torqued to 17 NM and the big trans bolts get torqued to 48 NM. 13 and 37 for ft-lb.

Pretty obvious where the various bolts go, hard to mess it up, even as a first timer. On the side of the pan nearest the belts (aka front) use sealant on the bolt threads, otherwise you’ll have an oil leak.

Take a good look at your oil pickup tube screen when you’re in there. If the screen is packed full of sludgy carbony junk & appears fatigued I’d replace it with the updated version. If you do that, you will also need longer M7 bolts, I think 5mm linger than what came out will suffice. I used threadlocker on mine.

Much easier to reinstall the oil pan with the updated pickup tube vs the original metal one.
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Re: Oil pan gasket replacement

Post by SuperHerman » Sat Dec 21, 2019 11:32 pm

Dmarks - Pete's advice is pretty solid. I will expand a bit. At your miles it would not hurt to tackle the oil pan and the corresponding o-rings. FCP kit is solid, but you can skip their sealant. Just source some Permatex Anaerobic Gasket maker and a foam roller/tray from the dollar store - that is what I have used for years. NAPA should carry it for under $15.00. There are write ups on this forum with pictures on the process. You hardly use any of the sealant so it will last you a long time. A very thin coat is all that is needed. The sealant mentioned is red, the right thickness applied looks pink it is so thin. Any excess ooze gets washed away by the oil and is not of consequence.

The oil pan and the block are very finely machined - the sealant fills any micro scratches and sorta bonds the two surfaces. It is not the old school oil pan gasket.

I am not sure on your car, but you want to make sure your oil pan falls straight down without having to move all sorts of added parts. If you have to move things, do your research as the pan will not come down without moving the obstructing components.

You want to clean the pan well and pay special attention to the square tube that the PCV system drains through - it gets caked up and with the pan off it is the best time to clean it well. Depending on how dirty it is you may need to cram a screw driver up the tube and pick the carbon build up out. Going further if it is pretty caked up, you may want to service your PCV system. Once you have it nice and clean spray some solvent up there (be careful with your eyes) and flush out any remnants. To keep your o-rings in place you need to use some grease or the like so they do not fall which is a VERY common mistake. The o-rings are fitted to the block, not the pan. There is grooves for them, but they will not stay in without some grease or similar.

As to the theory that the ticking noise is oil related, I am not sure. It has some merit as aged o-rings will leak and cause oil pressure issues. This usually throws a low engine oil light though, but not always. So higher miles - good practice would warrant changing the o-rings. Just make sure you have them properly seated and they do not fall or move when you put the pan on. Do some dry runs to make sure you are comfortable with the process. A method I use when doing oil pans is to wipe down all the walls of the upper block. First I drop the pan, let it drip until it stops, then spray it with solvent. Clean any drips and repeat until nothing is coming down. Let it sit in between each go at it.

Any oil that drops down will ruin your gasket seal and you will be back there fixing it again. Then after my dry fit, comfort attempts so I know how I have to move the pan with respect to any obstruction (mainly the oil pickup), and the sealant is on the pan, I do a final clean of the block. Then bolt it up.

Again - a common failure with o-ring/pan work is the o-ring gets pinched or one falls down. Very very common. Some have knocked them loose when they put the pan on. That is why you do dry runs until you are comfortable. Yes I am beating the dead horse, but I am trying to save you the issue many have suffered.

The sealant does not air dry - it drys with the lack of oxygen - so don't worry about the sealant sitting on your pan while you do a final clean of the block. DO NOT USE RTV!!

Final item, as Pete mentions, the tick may not be from the oil pan o-rings. Chase this down first. When the pan is down you will have access to the bearings and can examine them for excess play and look for issues.
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Re: Oil pan gasket replacement

Post by ignatz » Sun Dec 22, 2019 5:51 am

If the tapping/ticking is from the top of the engine, you might be hearing normal fuel injector/Volvo noises.
A delayed oil light going out, or a message warning to stop the engine is the main reason to drop the pan and replace the o-rings.
Years back on my other 2001 V70, I thought the same thing as you. My local shop said everything sounded normal and to just drive it.
My current 2001 V70 had a delayed oil light after startup, and dropping the pan and replacing the o-rings fixed that.
Tickety tick up top might be normal, tickety tock down below might be a death note.
Where does the noise sound like its coming from?
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Re: Oil pan gasket replacement

Post by Dmarks » Sun Dec 22, 2019 7:00 am

Hey guys! Thanks for the quick replies! The noise seems to be coming from the top of the motor, i just got the car and have driven it about 1000km (im in ontario canada) the car is extremely clean, it drives amazing with no power issues, it idles good and with there being snow on the ground i havent noticed any oil leaks at all. But i dont want to drive it and it leave me on the side of the road and paying for a tow truck lol

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Re: Oil pan gasket replacement

Post by - Pete - » Sun Dec 22, 2019 7:47 am

One other thing that might be useful is to use your generic scan tool or have it scanned for codes. If it truly is a knock, or the beginning of one, your knock sensors will hopefully be able to pick it up.

I had a knock sensor code once recently, but it was a faulty signal/low signal meaning the sensor was unplugged. The backstory was I had removed my front subframe and transmission & had forgotten to plug it back in when reinstalling everything.

So in your situation, if it is a knock, and it is plugged in, you should get a code with a high signal. Not saying that to scare you, but at least if a knock code is generated you know if it’s safe to drive it or not. Hopefully like the others have stated you’re just hearing normal Volvo ticking noises, injectors & so on.
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Re: Oil pan gasket replacement

Post by Dmarks » Sun Dec 22, 2019 7:53 am

It only has 2 codes, and they are for the map sensor/boost controller i think. Is there any other way of scanning to see if the knock sensor is detecting anything?

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Re: Oil pan gasket replacement

Post by - Pete - » Sun Dec 22, 2019 7:58 am

Even with a generic scan tool if it’s enough of a knock for the sensor to pick it up, your tool will see the code.

I’d clear your codes & rescan. I’m leaning optimistically on this one that there isn’t truly a knock.

A knock will be pretty obvious & most audible right at the beginning of a cold start. Then as the idle drops once, and then again, it will fade in decibels.

Are you talking about the ticking noise after shut down?

Edit, forgot Oxford comma.
Last edited by - Pete - on Sun Dec 22, 2019 7:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Oil pan gasket replacement

Post by Dmarks » Sun Dec 22, 2019 7:59 am

No it ticks while running. Not when its off. I am outside scanning it right now tho

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Re: Oil pan gasket replacement

Post by Dmarks » Sun Dec 22, 2019 10:15 am

So i just ran the codes and its coming up with p0236 p0237. Am i able to post videos on here?

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