1998 V70 GLT 19T Build

[abscate]

B dub

Get your phone on a small tripod and use a remote to trip it.

Set it up over a white paper and make a mini photo studio

Four of my girls want to know what color the Miata is

[bmdubya1198]

Smurf blue, of course! Second to last year of Mariner Blue. They seem to be getting harder to find these days.
These are the last pics of it... off it goes with its new owner! I'll definitely miss it. It was a blast on curvy roads, it cut through corners way faster than a bigger car with twice the power. I'll have another soon... but more Volvo things first!

That white paper wouldn't be white for long around Volvo engines... we should all know that by now!

[bmdubya1198]

Yesterday was fairly productive. I replaced the fuel pump with the DW200. Very easy install! It uses the same connector as the Bosch 69693, so fortunately no wiring work was required. I found it odd that the pump itself didn't have the "DW200" branding on the body, but it seems to be a real Deatschwerks pump otherwise.

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DW200 installed and ready to drop back into the car.

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Also pulled the cam cover and cleaned all of the old RTV that the previous owner before me (well, the shop he used) had put on there... two lessons here:
1- NEVER use RTV/silicone sealant on a Volvo cam cover!!!! It will clog the hell out of the oil passages. This is almost certainly why this car occasionally had noisy lifters. Yuck!
2- ALWAYS use the designation "pry points" on the cam cover... NEVER stick a screwdriver between the cover and the cylinder head. See that big screwdriver gouge? Not good!

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The cam cover is machined to the head... this isn't something that you're supposed to just swap between engines. That's why you can use anaerobic sealant rather than the typical RTV/silicone.

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On the other hand, the RTV made it easy to lift the cover right off! Much easier than when I pulled the cam cover from my 2000 S70.

Before cleaning up

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Much better!

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Looks like I should replace the thermostat housing gasket while I'm in here.

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Somebody must have sanded the cover or used some sort of abrasive the last time, it was all scratched up. Hopefully that won't affect how it seals.

The M10x1.0 tap should be arriving today from Amazon, so I will drill and tap the intake manifold for the two vacuum barbs, then that will go on. I need to call the dealer and see if I can get the thermostat housing gasket today while the intake is off.

[850 LPT]

Wow, amazing stuff going on here. Will be following closely.

[matthew1]

2- ALWAYS use the designation "pry points" on the cam cover... NEVER stick a screwdriver between the cover and the cylinder head. See that big screwdriver gouge? Not good!

Inhuman

[matthew1]

You don't know how much this makes me want to buy a P80, a hoist and a stand and do a full engine-out refresh/upgrade. I've still got a few dozen parts, things like Japanifold, fresh gaskets, IPD HD CBV kit, who knows what else. Lots.

I'd do it much like this, BMDub. Take my time and do it right.

I suppose I could park my VW on the street for a few months. I have a 1-bay garage. Sorry for the hijack.

[abscate]

RTV on the cam cover

#sadface

That tells you the last builder wasn’t too tuned in.

Don’t forget to replace those o rings around each spark plug well

[bmdubya1198]

You guys are too kind

RTV on the cam cover

#sadface

That tells you the last builder wasn’t too tuned in.

He was probably some kind of tractor mechanic... the guy I bought the car from was out in the country, and he definitely didn't know what he was doing. He told me a shop "rebuilt the top end" but I never got any more specifics. Glad to have it fixed now!

Also made some worrying discoveries... the cam carriers were BADLY scored on the intake side. Hopefully that's not going to be a problem, I'll put it back together for now knowing that it'll need a cylinder head somewhere down the road. I'm not too worried though, it's been fine the past 30k+ miles!
Without a doubt the aftermath of clogged oil passages... once again, DO NOT USE RTV!!!

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You don't know how much this makes me want to buy a P80, a hoist and a stand and do a full engine-out refresh/upgrade. I've still got a few dozen parts, things like Japanifold, fresh gaskets, IPD HD CBV kit, who knows what else. Lots.

I'd do it much like this, BMDub. Take my time and do it right.

I suppose I could park my VW on the street for a few months. I have a 1-bay garage. Sorry for the hijack.

Hey, you gotta do something with all those parts lying around! I love doing this kind of engine work... I feel accomplished looking at all of it wrapped up!

I got excited and bought another Volvo today... it's easy to do, I'm feeling motivated now that I'm getting this done and I sold my Miata. She just needs a little love!

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[erikv11]

It seems to be a tossup for '98s. Most people say their '98 has a hydraulic tensioner, but most that I've seen in person are mechanical

Engine serial numbers up to and including 1266127: Hydraulic Tensioner.
Engine serial numbers 1266128 and above: Mechanical Tensioner.

You cannot switch from one to the other, there are difference on the front of the block.

Yes 1998 was a split year but the part I bolded (about switching) is not entirely true.

Several people have documented making the switch from mechanical to hydraulic on 1998 blocks, for a while some favored making this change. The bolt holes for both are there on the block. I'm not sure about other years. Hydraulic and mechanical have different rear plastic timing covers though, and of course each uses a different timing belt.

[bmdubya1198]

Yes 1998 was a split year but the part I bolded (about switching) is not entirely true.

Several people have documented making the switch from mechanical to hydraulic on 1998 blocks, for a while some favored making this change. The bolt holes for both are there on the block. I'm not sure about other years. Hydraulic and mechanical have different rear plastic timing covers though, and of course each uses a different timing belt.

I've heard this too, this car may have even been converted since the original tensioner that I removed had a bend arm on top (the ones that go around the casting on the block). No clearance issues installing the new one, so I'm not sure why somebody bent it up.