2015.5 V60 Starter and water pump failure

[Anticus]

Last Friday I was driving 20 miles back home from work when I stopped to pick up a chainsaw part. I was in the shop for about 5 minutes and when I came back out, the vehicle was giving me a no crank no start.

I tried jumping it with multiple boxes, then eventually had it towed to the shop. They diagnose the problem as a bad starter. Fine, whatever. Just replace it.

$1000 later I get a phone call that the water pump is also bad and needs to be replaced. Sure as shit, the oil temp climbs past normal in about 5 minutes of idling.

Water pump replacement was quoted as an additional $1500, which I simply can't afford on top of the first thousand.

Does anybody know if these failures tend to occur together? I called the dealership and they told me there was no known connection, but I only spoke to the parts manager.

I'm going to try to get the part and do it myself this weekend so I don't end up having to sell an otherwise excellent vehicle. Any tips on that replacement would be welcome as well. I've downloaded the service manual already and it looks simple enough, just tedious as you have to pull the intake manifold.

[abscate]

Is the water pump mechanical or electrical on these 2015cars? Those systems are unrelated but if someone fooled with electrical stuff they may have screwed up an electric water pump.

[Anticus]

The water pump is electric but it is uses a LIN controlled processor and has battery connected (unswitched) + and - connections. If anything killed the water pump it could have been low battery V from bad starter causing much higher current switching though the electronically commutated motor circuitry that is tasked with control of wattage to operate water pump. Water pumps in this system are like cooling fans have been for years: they can run after engine stops for temp control and turbo cool down reasons. I am not aware of many of these going bad on Volvos but they are only a little over 5 years in service.

[jimmy57]

The electric water pumps are expensive still but I do see a Pierburg brand (OE maker) for $383 from one source. The water pump is not a hard job but does require turbo hose disconnect from intake and intake bolt removal and setting intake aside. The water pump is on side of engine block at transmission end. You will need to pour water into the upper rad hose with that hose elevated to assure the block gets filled as thermostat is in the lower hose on block. Tank filling will not assure the block gets filled and it is not good to over heat it dry and then let thermostat open to get the full fill accomplished. The change in thermostat location and coolant flow within engine started making vacuum filler the tool of choice in shops. The steps above are a workaround for no vacuum filler tool.

[Anticus]

The electric water pumps are expensive still but I do see a Pierburg brand (OE maker) for $383 from one source.

Do you have a link to that one? Google gives me a whole host of Amazon results but not much else.

[jimmy57]

FCP Euro: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... g-31368715


eBay item number: 392393922992

If you search using Volvo 31368715 you will find it several places.

[Anticus]

FCP Euro: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... g-31368715


eBay item number: 392393922992

If you search using Volvo 31368715 you will find it several places.

Thank you.

Last question.

This looks like the same part to me but I'm pretty dumb. Would you verify that this part matches or does not?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-2015-2019- ... #vi-ilComp

Thanks

[Anticus]

FCP Euro: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... g-31368715


eBay item number: 392393922992

If you search using Volvo 31368715 you will find it several places.

Thank you.

Last question.

This looks like the same part to me but I'm pretty dumb. Would you verify that this part matches or does not?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-2015-2019- ... #vi-ilComp

Thanks

Nevermind I'm a moron

[jimmy57]

If you haven't looked for something you are holding in your hand already then you aren't human.

[Anticus]

The electric water pumps are expensive still but I do see a Pierburg brand (OE maker) for $383 from one source. The water pump is not a hard job but does require turbo hose disconnect from intake and intake bolt removal and setting intake aside. The water pump is on side of engine block at transmission end. You will need to pour water into the upper rad hose with that hose elevated to assure the block gets filled as thermostat is in the lower hose on block. Tank filling will not assure the block gets filled and it is not good to over heat it dry and then let thermostat open to get the full fill accomplished. The change in thermostat location and coolant flow within engine started making vacuum filler the tool of choice in shops. The steps above are a workaround for no vacuum filler tool.

Thanks for all the help you've given. I did the block fill like you said and I'm still getting no coolant flow and overheating.

I can hear the sloshing of an air pocket behind the dash but I can't get it to purge/bleed. There seems to be absolutely no information on refilling these cooling systems and I'm wondering whether the swedes even considered overheating to be a real thing.

I found the little nipple that you can use to vacuum pump the air out of the lines but that only produces coolant and no air bubbles.

If you've got any info please let me know. Even the foreman at the dealership just laughed and told me that the only thing they could do is charge me to do the same thing I am.