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2004 XC90 T6 no spark

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo XC90s. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America).
KevinCro
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2004 XC90 T6 no spark

Post by KevinCro » Thu Feb 06, 2020 6:18 pm

Hello guys. Love the site. Any help is appreciated. I bought a non running 2004 Volvo XC90. Back story that I was given is that it had a blown head gasket. The head was shaved and reinstalled. However, after the head install, the coils won't spark. So far I have replaced the crank position sensor and checked all grounds and harnesses that I can find. I borrowed a friends scan tool that works for Volvos, and I was given the following codes while scanning the ECM for faults. Thank you so much for any help as I am stuck at this point.

CEM-1 A5F Communication with the ABS control unit. No Signal
CEM-6F 71 Fuel Hatch Switch Signal Too Low
CEM-6 C48 Transponder Type. Signal Faulty
CEM-1 A52 Communication with the Driver Door Module. Signal Missing
CEM-5 B05 Left Seat Heater, Signal Too Low.
CEM-6 A02 Rear Right Door Unlocked. Signal Too High
CEM-E000 Control Module Communication Faulty Communication

Is my CEM toast?
Thanks in advance
2004 Volvo XC90 T6 169k miles

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SuperHerman
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Re: 2004 XC90 T6 no spark

Post by SuperHerman » Thu Feb 06, 2020 7:01 pm

Start by making sure your battery is fully charged. Then you need to focus on this code:

CEM-6 C48 Transponder Type. Signal Faulty

see here: https://www.dtcdecode.com/Volvo/CEM-6C48
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KevinCro

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Re: 2004 XC90 T6 no spark

Post by KevinCro » Thu Feb 06, 2020 7:04 pm

Excellent thanks. I'll see what I can find out and post back.
2004 Volvo XC90 T6 169k miles

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Re: 2004 XC90 T6 no spark

Post by XC90Dave » Fri Feb 07, 2020 2:13 am

Have you done the basic power/ground/trigger circuit test? This is performed at the coil on plug connectors. Doing this will eliminate the majority of searching to see what's not working. To perform test you;
1. Remove the air plenums above the top of the acmshaft cover
2. remove the 5 torx screws holding the center coil/wiring cover & remove covers (2) to expose wiring & coils
3. At each coil remove the connector (has 4 terminals but only uses 3 - #2 is not used)
4. On the coil is numbers 1 through 4 : 1 = trigger , 2 not used, 3 = ground , 4 = 12V constant w/ignition on
5. Color of trigger circuit at each cylinder is : #1 = blue, #2 = brown, #3 = yellow, #4 = pink, #5 = violet, #6 = grey
NOW: Use multimeter or 12V test light - ground 1 lead to engine bolt ground (black wires from split protector to camshaft cover to coils) & test each coil connector green/white #4 for voltage - should be 12V +/-. Now perform the same test between coil connector #3 & #4 (black & Green/white. If 12V is present at all tests the power circuit is ready to fire.
6. You need a straight pin (like you get when you buy a dress shirt) and a 12V test light to perform the next test. At each coil connector you will insert the pin into the back of the connector terminal #1 trigger circuit, push it in at the back where the wire enters the connector to contact the wire terminal clamp inside - about 1/8" . Remove each coil pack & plug the harness connector into the coil, insert a sparkplug into the coil boot as it does on the engine - ground the plug body - (I use a carpenters spring pinch clamp to clamp it to the engine). Now take the clamp of the test light wire & connect to the Positive battery cable post @ between fusebox & windshield (red)
At each coil with ignition on strike across the pin installed in the trigger circuit #1 and if the plug is grounded and 12V is present it will fire the spark plug, you can see the arc easily. If this testing is done you have eliminated the operational side of the circuit.

Next : Do you know if the ECM has been changed or is it original? Volvo programs the ECM to a specific vehicle, if it has been changed it will not fire until it is programed. Check fuse #23 - 5A under hood fuse panel powers ECM relay. Check #12 - 10A Dashboard drivers side fuse panel. Check wiring harness from engine top where it exits from coils - down to below radiator across to passenger side up to ECM panel & transmission control module. Look for damaged or cracked/bare/rubbed wires that might short out. You need a $16 ECM removal tool to remove if you want to test all wiring between black base conecctor and coils (mainly looking for corrosion or heat damage at terminals. More often the wiring problems are where the wires enter to the coils from heat, vibration, rubbing and abuse.
I can continue as the next issue is the CEM which is under the steering wheel dashboard that has water entry issues causing corrosion, that's another day, If you have pulled all the codes I would clear the system - remove battery cable for at least 20 min then re-install, check for codes again. Hope this helps you, good luck.
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Re: 2004 XC90 T6 no spark

Post by XC90Dave » Fri Feb 07, 2020 2:19 am

The codes your showing sounds like the CEM has issues, it's easy to remove & check (video's on You Tube) These components all control/communicate w/ each other. Delete the codes and see if they repeat. A company in Canada rebuilds these w/ warranty.
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Re: 2004 XC90 T6 no spark

Post by KevinCro » Sun Feb 09, 2020 4:43 pm

So I've got my CEM all boxed up and was looking for a repair shop, but I'm just not convinced that the CEM is bad. I ran across an article that said the transponder code can be lost if the battery goes dead, which it was when I bought the car. Seems like some rather janky engineering on Volvo's part but anyway its the situation I'm in. The article said that I would need to go to the dealer and have them reloaded on the computer, however, the nearest Volvo dealer is an hour away and obviously I can't drive it there. Can you guys tell me if this could be the problem, and maybe point me in the right direction of solving it?
2004 Volvo XC90 T6 169k miles

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Re: 2004 XC90 T6 no spark

Post by SuperHerman » Sun Feb 09, 2020 7:55 pm

Maybe try sending a pm to forum member "Jagger" - from his posts he appears to be capable of handling certain programming on-line.
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Re: 2004 XC90 T6 no spark

Post by RickHaleParker » Mon Feb 10, 2020 3:46 am

Have your friend clear the codes and see what comes back. I suspect most of the codes he pulled are artifacts because CEM-6C48 will prevent the starter motor from turning over.
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KevinCro
Platform: P80 1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package, Plant: Uddevalla Sweden.

Platform: X40 (Nedcar) 2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000. Plant: Born Netherlands.

Platform P2 2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0,
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Re: 2004 XC90 T6 no spark

Post by KevinCro » Mon Feb 10, 2020 3:22 pm

So it's been raining here for a couple days and this morning I went out to get something out of the XC90 and the driver's floor board had about a half inch of water in it. I repaired the sunroof drain tube by connecting a piece of tubing to the existing tube and running it down through the drain hole. Is this a viable fix as long as it is a very tight connection? Second question, I had pulled all the relays from the CEM an laid them in the floorboard in the pattern in which they came off. I have them stuck into a piece of styrofoam so that the water can drain out of them, however, I am hesitant to use them due to rust and corrosion. Should I replace them or is there another way to salvage them? I'm tempted just to replace them to rule out any future failures, but they are about 12 dollars each. Thoughts? Also I think this would tend to shed some light on my original no spark problem.
2004 Volvo XC90 T6 169k miles

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Re: 2004 XC90 T6 no spark

Post by SuperHerman » Mon Feb 10, 2020 4:22 pm

Sunroof drain - a common fix here as the tube is too short (Me thinks it shrinks with age) is to cut it at the top of the pillar and use a tube that has a ID that snuggly fits the OD of the existing tube - making it so about an inch of gap to provide the needed length. Basically it is acting as a coupler. Then during install use some sealant on the outside tube that will get pushed out and form a seal (both ends). If you buy the right tubing I think the friction should hold it correctly (maybe heat the tubing to make it pliable). Dry run is best.

People do this at the top portion when they clean their drains as the problem usually is from the top.

So - what you have done should work - just make sure it is a tight fit and add some sealant - it is not a pressure environment and if the tubing path is clear - water will flow down.

You can test the relays - do a search. I cannot find my box of Volvo relays, but most relays can be opened up - if they cannot then they are most likely sealed and should be fine. You can source used relays - check Craigslist or a local wrecker. Figure out which ones you need, part number, and pull them. At least on wagons, there are relays in the back which are easier to grab. Grab some shunts also.

As I mentioned before - pm "jagger" - he has been able to do many things remotely for forum users. I am confident he will be able to advise you. I don't know how he charges, but I would imagine it reasonable. I think your transponder issue needs to be addressed first - which from what he writes - he should be able to sort.
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