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billstein struts

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive "P2" platform cars.

2001 - 2007 V70
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abscate
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Re: billstein struts

Post by abscate » Sat Feb 08, 2020 7:13 am

I don’t think I’ve ever bottomed out a strut. Maybe the struts are poor out of box quality ?
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Re: billstein struts

Post by Rattnalle » Sat Feb 08, 2020 7:27 am

abscate wrote:
Sat Feb 08, 2020 7:13 am
I don’t think I’ve ever bottomed out a strut. Maybe the struts are poor out of box quality ?
I know a place where I can bottom out the entire car. It's a bridge where the ground has sunk a bit right after so theres a bit of steep gradient down, perhaps a feet and a half of drop. If you don't slow down it feels like the car is almost airborne and then there's a hard landing.. :roll:

But in less careless driving I don't think I've ever been close.

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Re: billstein struts

Post by - Pete - » Sat Feb 08, 2020 8:42 am

Famfeld, by bottom out, do you mean you can hear the front tires rub the plastic fender liner?

If that’s the case I wonder if you ended up with V70 fitment shocks vs XC? The stroke length is considerably less on the V70 “shocks” and a V70/S60 shock/strut installed on an XC WILL rub. I have a pic of the two side by side I can post.

Edit: the only other thing I could possibly fathom for the bottoming is your springs are just that flaccid. Or V70/S60 springs on XC shocks. Either of those would be very surprising to me though. I’ve had front springs literally crack & break off a good 8-9” part of a coil before & still not encounter bottoming

You mentioned the “play” around the top bearing mount. The seat is supposed to allow for some cushioning, and/or “play”. Once the top plate is bolted to the top of the strut though, with the strut still on the bench, you really shouldn’t be able to separate the top plate from the seat. Of course the top plate should rotate freely without any gritty-ness or rough spots.

Once it’s mounted in the car & you let the car back down on the ground you should notice a small gap appear beneath the large top washer. I’d say 1/8” - 1/4” is about right, but not more. If it’s more than that, then the seat is usually torn & center bushing is about to break away from the vulcanized rubber.

One other thing you need to be certain of is you need to have the “tee-nut” or “cross-nut” on tight. If not, that could account for some play and or a clunk I suppose.


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